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Starter types chapter (#13)
* This adds the starter types chapter * Add note on flour types * Check starter types
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@@ -33,7 +33,7 @@ The book is a work in progress. This represents the current status:
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* ✅ Enzymes
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* ✅ Microorganisms
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* ✅ Making a starter
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* ❌ Sourdough starter types
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* ✅ Sourdough starter types
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* ❌ Flour types
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* ❌ Bread types
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* ❌ Wheat sourdough
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@@ -68,10 +68,7 @@
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\input{sourdough-starter/sourdough-starter}
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\chapter{Sourdough starter types}
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\section{The regular starter}
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\section{Stiff starter}
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\section{Liquid starter}
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\section{Lievito madre}
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\input{sourdough-starter/sourdough-starter-types}
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\chapter{Flour types}
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\section{Wheat like}
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book/sourdough-starter/sourdough-starter-types.tex
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book/sourdough-starter/sourdough-starter-types.tex
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In this chapter of the book we will have a closer look
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at different sourdough starter types and their respective
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traits.
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\begin{table}[htp!]
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\centering
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\resizebox{\textwidth}{!}{%
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\begin{tabular}{|l|l|l|r|l|}
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\hline
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\textbf{Starter type} & \textbf{Hydration in \%} & \textbf{Flour type} & \multicolumn{1}{l|}{\textbf{Yeast activity}} & \textbf{Bacterial activity} \\ \hline
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Regular & 100 & Strong wheat flour & Balanced & Balanced \\ \hline
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Liquid & 500 & Very strong wheat flour & Minimal & High \\ \hline
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Stiff & 50-60 & All wheat flour & High & Low \\ \hline
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\end{tabular}%
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}
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\caption{\label{tab:starter-types-comparison}A comparison of different sourdough starter types}
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\end{table}
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Depending on the flour you have at hand the type of starter changes. With more
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bacterial activity you have more gluten consumption of your microbes. So if
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you want to bake a free standing loaf you need a flour with more gluten. The
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more gluten you have the more of it can be broken down whilst still maintaining
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dough integrity. If you live in a country where the climate to grow wheat
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isn't ideal and you only have weaker flours, then a stiff sourdough starter
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could be advised. The stiff sourdough starter will improve yeast activity and
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reduce bacterial activity. If you are a chaser of a very sour bread and have a
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very strong wheat flour then you can try to play with a liquid sourdough
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starter. The key difference between all of the starters is how much water
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is used in the starter. The regular starter having a 1:1 relationship of flour
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to water. The liquid starter has a 5:1 water to flour ratio and the stiff
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starter has half the flour as water.
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You can change your starter type by just adjusting the feeding ratio of how
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much flour and water you use. I frequently changed my starter type from
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regular to liquid and then back to a stiff starter. After changing the
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environment of your microbes apply feedings at the same ratio over a couple of
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days so that they can adapt to the new environment. I could already see
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changes after a single feeding, but I recommend 2 to 3 feedings, one feeding per
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day to see a stronger effect.
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Your dough is generally just a big sourdough starter. So your starter is going
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to adapt and regrow inside of your main dough. But you can influence the
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properties that your starter carries over to your main dough. If you have more
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bacterial fermentation then your dough will also have slightly more bacterial
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fermentation. If you have more yeast fermentation then your main dough will
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have slightly more yeast fermentation. This is important to know when you are
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working with a more mature unfed starter. Let's say your starter had last been
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fed 48 hours ago, then chances are your bacteria is very active while the
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yeast could be dormant. In such a case you can skip feeding your starter
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before making another dough. Just use a very tiny amount of starter. For 1000g
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of flour I would take around 10g of starter (1 percent in terms of baker's
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math). If my starter is very young and had just been fed 6 to 8 hours ago I might
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end up going up to 20 percent of starter. Remember that your dough is nothing
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else other than a big starter. It will tremendously help you to figure out
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your best next steps.
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\section{Regular starter}
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\begin{figure}[!htb]
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\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{sourdough-starter.jpg}
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\caption{A regular sourdough starter at 100 percent hydration fed with rye flour}
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\label{fig:regular-sourdough-starter}
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\end{figure}
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The regular sourdough starter is made at a hydration of around 100 percent.
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This means the starter has equal parts of flour and water. This is the most
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common and must universal sourdough starter there is. The starter has a good
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balance of yeast and bacteria. After a feeding the volume increases and
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increases. After it reached a certain peak it will start to collapse again.
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The best way to judge whether the starter is ready is to look at signs such as
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pockets on the edges of your container. Also use the nose to to evaluate the
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smell of your starter. If you feel that the starter doesn't perform in a
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desirable way chances are that your yeast and bacteria ratios are off. In that
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case frequently daily feedings using a 1:5:5 (starter:flour:water) ratio will
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help.
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The starter is perfect to use when utilizing stronger wheat or spelt flours.
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It also nicely works with rye, emmer or einkorn. If you only have a weak flour
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at hand with less gluten this starter might cause issue. As you tend to have
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quite some bacterial activity gluten is going to be broken down fast. When
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using the starter use around 1 to 20 percent starter based on the flour of your
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dough.
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Depending on the bacteria cultivated your starter either has a lactic (dairy),
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a vinegary (acetic) or mix of both flavour profile. You can adjust your
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starter's flavour by changing the type to a liquid starter.
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\section{Liquid starter}
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\begin{figure}[!htb]
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\centering
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\includegraphics[width=0.5\textwidth]{sourdough-starter-liquid.jpg}
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\caption{A liquid sourdough starter where the flour separates from the water. Bubbles indicate
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that is ready to be used.}
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\label{fig:liquid-sourdough-starter}
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\end{figure}
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The liquid starter is made at a hydration of around 500 percent. This means
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the starter has way more water than flour. The additional layer of water on
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top of the flour changes the microbiome of your starter.
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By introducing this layer of water less oxygen is available throughout the
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course of fermentation. This means that your starter will no longer be
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producing acetic acid. The heterofermentative lactic acid bacteria will thrive
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in this environment. This is a neat little trick to change your starter's
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flavour profile from vinegary to lactic. Your starter is going to develop
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dairy creamy notes. Interesting when changing the hydration again your starter
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is going to maintain the liquid starter flavor profile, but then benefit again
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from enhanced yeast activity. The liquid starter conversion is non reversible.
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So ideally keep a backup of your starter before.
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To commence with the
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conversion simply take around 1 gram of your starter, mix with 5g flour and
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25g water. Stir everything together properly. After a few minutes the flour is
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going to start settling in at the bottom of your jar. Repeat this process over
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a few days. Shake the starter gently to see if you can see tiny CO2 bubbles
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moving in the liquid. This is a good sign that your starter is ready. Use your
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nose to smell the starter. It should have a creamy dairy flavor note.
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As you have more bacterial activity this starter works best with a very strong
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flour that can withstand a long fermentation period. Using this starter with a
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weak wheat flour will not work. If you do not care about baking a free
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standing loaf then you can easily use this starter together with a loaf pan.
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This starter also works great when making a hearty pancake dough. To use it I
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shake the starter container until I see all ingredients are homogenized. Then
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I use around 5 percent of it in terms of baker's math. So for 1000g of flour
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that's around 50 grams of liquid starter. As it is very liquid you have to
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include the 50 grams in your liquid calculation. I typically treat the starter
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directly as liquid in the recipes. So if the recipe calls for 600 grams of water
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and I use 50 grams of starter, then I would proceed and only use 550 grams of
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water.
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This type of starter is also an excellent mold combatant. As you are removing
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oxygen from the equation aerobic mold can not properly grow. If your starter
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has a mold problem then the liquid conversion could be the remedy. Take a
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piece of your starter where you suspect no mold growth. Apply the conversion
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as mentioned before. The mold will likely sporulate as it runs out of food.
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With each new feeding you are reducing the mold spores. The spores can no
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longe reactivate as they can not do so in the anaerobic conditions.
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The liquid on top of your starter is an excellent resource that you could use
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to make sauces. If you feel you would like to add a little bit of acidity,
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drain the liquid part on your starter and use it. I have used it numerous
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times to make lactofermented hot sauces.
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\section{Stiff starter}
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\begin{figure}[!htb]
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\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{sourdough-starter-stiff.jpg}
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\caption{A stiff sourdough starter that I used to make a Stollen dough for christmas. Note
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the bubbles on the edge of the container. The dough does not fall out of the jar.}
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\label{fig:stiff-sourdough-starter}
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\end{figure}
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The stiff starter is the driest of all the starters. It has a hydration of
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around 50 to 60 percent. So for 100 grams of flour you are using around 60 to
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60 grams of water.
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In the stiffer environment the yeast thrives more. This means you will have
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more CO2 production and less acid production. In my tests this is a game
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changer especially if you are using weaker gluten flours. The wheat flours in
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my home country Germany tend to be lower in gluten. For wheat to build gluten warm conditions
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are preferred (SOURCE NEEDED). When following recipes from other bakers I
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could never achieve similar results. When following timings my doughs would
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simply collapse and become super sticky. Only when I started to buy more
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expensive wheat flour my results started to change. As not everyone can afford
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these special baking flours and due their limited availability I stumbled upon the
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stiff sourdough starter. I made several tests where I used the same amount of
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starter and flour. I only changed the hydration between all the starters. I
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would then proceed and place a balloon on top of each of the jars. The stiff
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starter jar was clearly inflated the most. On place 2 the regular starter
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followed. On place three the liquid starter followed with way less CO2
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production.
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I then proceeded and bought a cheap low cake flour in my nearby supermarket.
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This flour before had caused me massive headache before. I made a sourdough bread
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exactly how I would normally do. I had to reduce the hydration a bit as a low
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gluten flour does not soak up as much water. Then I replaced the starter with
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the stiff starter. The dough felt amazing and was suddenly able to withstand a
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much longer fermentation period. The bread had great oven spring and tasted
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very mild. I am still yet to find a proper explanation why the yeast part of
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the dough is more active. Maybe it is not. It could also be that the bacteria
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is inhibited by the lack of water.
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When making the stiff sourdough starter start with using around 50 percent
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water. If you are using a whole wheat flour, or a strong flour consider going
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up to 60 percent. All the ingredients should mix together very well. There
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should be no crumbly flour left. This is a common mistake I have seen when
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people tried to make the stiff starter. Yes it should be dry, but not to a
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point where it is a brick of cement. If you ever made a pasta dough, this is
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exactly the same way how the dough should feel like.
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To evaluate whether your stiff starter is ready look for a dome. Also look for
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pockets of air on the edges of your container. Use your nose to smell the
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starter. It should have a mild smell. It also tends to smell way more
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alcoholic than the other starters.
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When using the starter use around 1 to 20 percent depending on the ripeness of
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your starter. In summer times I typically use around 10 percent and in winter
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times around 20 percent. This way you can also control the fermentation speed.
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Mixing the starter can be a little bit annoying as it hardly homogenises with
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the rest of the dough. In this case you can try to dissolve the starter in the
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water you are about to use for your dough. This will make mixing a lot easier.
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\section{Lievito madre or pasta madre}
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The Lievito madre also known as pasta madre belongs to the same category as
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the stiff sourdough starter. After conducting hours of research I could not
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find a difference in pasta madre and lievito madre. Both of terms seem to be
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used interchangeably in literature.
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In many recipes this starter is made directly
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from dried or fresh fruits. You can make a starter also from leaves from your
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garden. As described before the wild yeast and bacteria consume the glucose
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from the plants leaves. All the options work. When making a starter directly
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from dried fruits you sometimes lack the bacterial part of the fermentation.
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The acidity is very important in order to clean your starter from possible
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pathogens. If you decide to make your starter from fruits make sure it also
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acidifies properly when making a dough. A tool such as a pH meter can be of
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optimal help. Generally the lower the pH the higher the acidity. The acidity
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should be below 4.2 to know that your starter produces sufficient acidity.
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Some bakers cleanse the lievito madre in a bath of water. This is supposed to
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remove excess acidity. In my own experiments I have not been able to confirm
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this methodology. The acidity remains the same. The only reason this could
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make sense is if you also tried to boost anaerobic microorganisms. However then the
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starter would need to remain in this environment for quite some time and not just
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a few hours.
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Baking with sourdough is simple. It's just flour and water. When seeing a recipe
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from an experienced baker you wonder, wait, that's it? There is nothing more
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to it? I feel that this might be the reason why some bakers have so complicated
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feeding procedures. They resort to several feedings per day at a certain given ratio.
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This makes the baker feel a little more elitist. Of course over time as
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more and more people follow this procedure it becomes a self fulfilling prophecy.
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The more experienced you become the higher the chances are that a bogus starter
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feeding guide will reward you with beautiful results. The reason however is
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not in the starter routine. The reason is that you better understand the fermentation
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and become better at reading the signs of your dough.
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If I had one starter type to choose I would go for the stiff starter. In many cases
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it will provide you with consistent great results with little effort.
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In my experience you can make any yeast based dough and just replace
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the yeast directly with the stiff sourdough starter. You will be able
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to achieve even better results with the stiff starter.
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Lastly no matter which starter type you choose, you can control how sour
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you want your dough to be. The longer you push the fermentation the more
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acidity is going to be piled up. The only difference is that for a given
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volume increase the stiff starter will produce the least acidity. So for a
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volume increase of 100 percent, the liquid starter has produced most acidity,
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followed by the regular starter and then the stiff starter. If you wait long
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enough the stiff starter will have produced the same amount of acidity as the
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other starters. But before doing so it also has produced a lot more CO2. If
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you like the sour flavour you have to push your fermentation longer. This also
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means you either need to bake in a loaf pan or have a very strong gluten flour
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that is able to withstand long fermentation times.
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@@ -104,7 +104,9 @@ is a little bit of patience. The flour you should
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use to setup your starter is ideally a whole flour.
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You could use whole wheat, whole rye, whole spelt or
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any other flour you have. In fact gluten free flours such
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as rice or corn would also work.
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as rice or corn would also work. Don't worry, you can
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change the flour later. Use whatever whole flour you
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already have at hand.
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Your flour is contaminated with millions of microbes. As explained
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before in the chapter about wild yeast and bacteria, these
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