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How sourdough works (#208)
* Use whole-wheat consistantly * Review how sourdough works chapter
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@@ -41,10 +41,12 @@ activity so that it can thrive in its new environment.
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Of course, a ground flour can no longer sprout. But the enzymes that
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Of course, a ground flour can no longer sprout. But the enzymes that
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trigger this process are still present. That's why it's important not to
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trigger this process are still present. That's why it's important not to
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mill grains at too high a temperature, as doing so could damage some of
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mill grains at too high a temperature, as doing so could damage some of
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these enzymes\footnote{In a recent study tests have shown that milling flour
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these enzymes\footnote{In a recent
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study~\cite{milling+commercial+home+mill+comparison} tests have shown that
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milling flour
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at home with a small mill had no significant negative impact on the resulting
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at home with a small mill had no significant negative impact on the resulting
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bread quality compared to milled flour from temperature-regulated large-scale
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bread quality compared to milled flour from temperature-regulated large-scale
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mills~\cite{milling+commercial+home+mill+comparison}.}.
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mills.}.
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Normally, the grain seed shields the germ against pathogens. However, as the
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Normally, the grain seed shields the germ against pathogens. However, as the
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grain is ground into flour, the contents of the seed are exposed. This is ideal
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grain is ground into flour, the contents of the seed are exposed. This is ideal
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@@ -83,15 +85,14 @@ certain temperatures to allow the different amylases to convert the contained
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starches into sugar~\cite{beer+amylase}. This process is so important that
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starches into sugar~\cite{beer+amylase}. This process is so important that
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there's a frequently used test to determine whether or not all the starches
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there's a frequently used test to determine whether or not all the starches
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have been converted.
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have been converted.
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This test, called the \emph{Iodine Starch Test}, involves mixing iodine into
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This test, called the \emph{Iodine Starch Test}, involves mixing iodine into
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a sample of your brew and checking the color. If it's blue or black, you know
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a sample of your brew and checking the color. If it's blue or black, you know
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you still have unconverted starches. I~wonder if such a test would also work
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you still have unconverted starches. I~wonder if such a test would also work
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for bread dough?
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for bread dough?
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Industrial bakers that add especially active yeast to produce bread in a short
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Industrial bakers who add especially active yeast to produce bread in a short
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period of time face a similar issue. Their approach is to add malted flour to
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period of time face a similar issue. Their approach is to add malted flour to
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the dough. The malted flour contains many enzymes and thus speeds up the
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the dough, this malted flour contains many enzymes and thus speeds up the
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fermentation process. The next time you're at the supermarket, check the
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fermentation process. The next time you're at the supermarket, check the
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packaging of the bread you buy. If you find \emph{malt} in the list of
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packaging of the bread you buy. If you find \emph{malt} in the list of
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ingredients, chances are this strategy was used.
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ingredients, chances are this strategy was used.
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@@ -115,14 +116,13 @@ the same process occurs in bread dough.
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If you've ever tried to make a wheat-based dough and kept it at room
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If you've ever tried to make a wheat-based dough and kept it at room
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temperature for several days, you'll have discovered for yourself that the
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temperature for several days, you'll have discovered for yourself that the
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gluten network breaks down so that the dough can no longer hold together. Once
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gluten network breaks down to the point that the dough can no longer hold together. Once
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this happens, the dough easily tears, holds no structure, and is no
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this happens, the dough easily tears, holds no structure, and is no
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longer suitable for baking bread.
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longer suitable for baking bread.
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This happened to me once when I~tried to make sourdough directly from a dried
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This happened to me once when I~tried to make sourdough directly from a dried
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starter. At three to four days, the fermentation speed was so slow that the
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starter. At three to four days, the fermentation speed was so slow that the
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gluten network broke down. The root cause for this issue was protease.
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gluten network broke down. The root cause for this issue was protease.
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By adding water to your dough, you activate the protease, and this gets to work
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By adding water to your dough, you activate the protease, and this gets to work
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in readying amino acids for the germ.
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in readying amino acids for the germ.
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@@ -144,7 +144,7 @@ achieve a fluffy, open crumb with your sourdough bread.
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Aside from using great ingredients, the slow fermentation process is one of the
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Aside from using great ingredients, the slow fermentation process is one of the
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main reasons Neapolitan pizza tastes so great: because the protease creates an
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main reasons Neapolitan pizza tastes so great: because the protease creates an
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extensible, easy-to-inflate dough, a soft and airy edge is achieved.
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extensible and easy-to-inflate dough a soft and airy edge is achieved.
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Because the fermentation process typically takes longer than 8~hours, a
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Because the fermentation process typically takes longer than 8~hours, a
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flour with a higher gluten content should be used. This gives the dough more
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flour with a higher gluten content should be used. This gives the dough more
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@@ -154,10 +154,10 @@ that's broken down so much that it tears during stretching, making it
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impossible, for example, to shape it into a pizza pie.
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impossible, for example, to shape it into a pizza pie.
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Traditionally, pizza has been made with sourdough, but in modern times it is
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Traditionally, pizza has been made with sourdough, but in modern times it is
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made with active dry yeast, as the dough stays good for a longer period of time
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made with active dry yeast. As the dough stays good for a longer period of time
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and is much easier to handle on a commercial scale. If you were to use
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it is much easier to handle on a commercial scale. If you were to use
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sourdough, you might have a window of thirty to ninety minutes before the dough
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sourdough, you might have a window of thirty to ninety minutes before the dough
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begins to deteriorate, both because of the protease acting for a longer period
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begins to deteriorate, due to both the protease acting for a longer period
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of time and the byproducts of bacteria, which we'll discuss in more detail later
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of time and the byproducts of bacteria, which we'll discuss in more detail later
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in this chapter.
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in this chapter.
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@@ -176,10 +176,10 @@ At the time, I~utilized an extended autolyse, which is just a fancy word for
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mixing flour and water in advance and then letting the mixture sit. Most
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mixing flour and water in advance and then letting the mixture sit. Most
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recipes call for it as the process gives the dough an enzymatic head start, and
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recipes call for it as the process gives the dough an enzymatic head start, and
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in general it's a great idea. However, as an equally effective alternative,
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in general it's a great idea. However, as an equally effective alternative,
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you could simply reduce the amount of leavening agent used (in the case of
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you could simply reduce the amount of leavening agent used --- in the case of
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sourdough, this would be your starter). This would allow the same biochemical
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sourdough, this would be your starter. This would allow the same biochemical
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reactions to occur at roughly the same rate without requiring you to mix your
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reactions to occur at roughly the same rate without requiring you to mix your
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dough several times. My whole wheat game improved dramatically after I~stopped
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dough several times. My whole-wheat game improved dramatically after I~stopped
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autolysing my doughs.
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autolysing my doughs.
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Now that I've had time to think about it, the result I~observed makes sense.
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Now that I've had time to think about it, the result I~observed makes sense.
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@@ -201,7 +201,6 @@ doughs, I~usually add 10\textendash20\% whole-wheat flour.
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\label{whole-wheat-crumb}
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\label{whole-wheat-crumb}
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\end{figure}
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\end{figure}
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By understanding the two key enzymes \emph{amylase} and \emph{protease}, you
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By understanding the two key enzymes \emph{amylase} and \emph{protease}, you
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will be better equipped to make bread to your liking. Do you prefer a softer
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will be better equipped to make bread to your liking. Do you prefer a softer
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or stiffer crumb? Do you desire a lighter or darker crust? Do you wish to reduce
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or stiffer crumb? Do you desire a lighter or darker crust? Do you wish to reduce
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@@ -212,14 +211,16 @@ tweak just by adjusting the speed of your dough's fermentation.
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Yeasts are single-celled microorganisms belonging to the fungi kingdom, and
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Yeasts are single-celled microorganisms belonging to the fungi kingdom, and
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spores that are hundreds of millions of years old have been identified by
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spores that are hundreds of millions of years old have been identified by
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scientists. There are a wide variety of species --- so far, about \num{1500} have been
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scientists. There are a wide variety of species --- so far, about \num{1500}
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identified. Unlike other members of the fungi kingdom such as mold, yeasts do
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have been identified. Unlike other members of the fungi kingdom such as mold,
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not ordinarily create a mycelium network~\cite{molecular+mechanisms+yeast}.\footnote{For
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yeasts do not ordinarily create a mycelium
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one interesting exception, skip ahead to the end of this section.}
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network~\cite{molecular+mechanisms+yeast}.\footnote{For one interesting
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exception, skip ahead to the end of this section on
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page~\pageref{aggressive-yeast}.}
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\begin{figure}[!htb]
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\begin{figure}[!htb]
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\begin{center}
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\begin{center}
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\includegraphics[width=1.0\textwidth]{saccharomyces-cerevisiae-microscope}
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\includegraphics[width=0.8\textwidth]{saccharomyces-cerevisiae-microscope}
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\caption[Brewer's yeast]{Saccharomyces cerevisiae: Brewer's yeast under the
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\caption[Brewer's yeast]{Saccharomyces cerevisiae: Brewer's yeast under the
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microscope.}%
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microscope.}%
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\label{saccharomyces-cerevisiae-microscope}
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\label{saccharomyces-cerevisiae-microscope}
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@@ -228,11 +229,10 @@ one interesting exception, skip ahead to the end of this section.}
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Yeasts are saprotrophic fungi. This means that they do not produce their own
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Yeasts are saprotrophic fungi. This means that they do not produce their own
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food, but instead rely on external sources that they can decompose and break
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food, but instead rely on external sources that they can decompose and break
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down into compounds that are more easily metabolized.
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down into compounds that are more easily metabolized. What we today
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refer to as the fermentation process, is the yeast breaking down carbohydrates
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Yeast breaks down carbohydrates into carbon dioxide and alcohol in what we today
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into carbon dioxide and alcohol. This process has been known for thousands
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refer to as the fermentation process. This process has been known for thousands
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of years, and has been used since ancient times for the making of bread as well
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of years and has been used since ancient times for the making of bread as well
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as alcoholic beverages.
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as alcoholic beverages.
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Yeast can grow and multiply under both aerobic and anaerobic conditions. When
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Yeast can grow and multiply under both aerobic and anaerobic conditions. When
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@@ -250,7 +250,7 @@ cooler place and cultivate a sourdough starter from a nordic rye variety,
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chances are your yeast will prefer a colder environment.
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chances are your yeast will prefer a colder environment.
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As an example, beer makers discovered a beneficial yeast living in the cold
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As an example, beer makers discovered a beneficial yeast living in the cold
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caves around the city of Pilsen, Czech Republic. This yeast has since become
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caves around the city of Pilsen, Czech~Republic. This yeast has since become
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known for producing excellent beers at lower temperatures and varieties of
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known for producing excellent beers at lower temperatures and varieties of
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these strains are now used for brewing popular lagers.
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these strains are now used for brewing popular lagers.
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@@ -266,7 +266,7 @@ breaking down those cell walls so they can infect the plant.
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Some fungi and bacteria live inside plants without causing them any distress.
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Some fungi and bacteria live inside plants without causing them any distress.
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These are known as \emph{endophytes}. Not only do they \emph{not} damage their
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These are known as \emph{endophytes}. Not only do they \emph{not} damage their
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host, they actually live in a symbiotic relationship, helping the plants in
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host, they actually live in a symbiotic relationship. They help the plants in
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which they dwell to protect themselves from other pathogens that might also
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which they dwell to protect themselves from other pathogens that might also
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come to infect them through their leaves. In addition to this protection, they
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come to infect them through their leaves. In addition to this protection, they
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also help with water and heat stress, as well as the availability of nutrients.
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also help with water and heat stress, as well as the availability of nutrients.
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@@ -319,6 +319,7 @@ inoculated with some of the 150 different wild yeast strains isolated from the
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leaves. They found that when the wound was inoculated with yeast, the grape
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leaves. They found that when the wound was inoculated with yeast, the grape
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sustained no significant damage~\cite{yeasts+biocontrol+agent}.
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sustained no significant damage~\cite{yeasts+biocontrol+agent}.
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\phantomsection \label{aggressive-yeast}%
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Intriguingly, there was also an experiment performed that showed how brewer's
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Intriguingly, there was also an experiment performed that showed how brewer's
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yeast could function as an aggressive pathogen to grapevines. Initially, the
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yeast could function as an aggressive pathogen to grapevines. Initially, the
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yeast lived in symbiosis with the plants, but after the vines sustained heavy
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yeast lived in symbiosis with the plants, but after the vines sustained heavy
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@@ -329,8 +330,8 @@ so that they could penetrate the tissue of the plants.
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\section{Bacteria}
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\section{Bacteria}
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The other most dominant microbial antagonists in your sourdough are bacteria.
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The other most dominant microbial antagonists in your sourdough are bacteria.
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In fact, they are so dominant that they outnumber the yeast in your dough 100
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In fact, they are so dominant that they outnumber the yeast in your dough
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to 1. Whereas yeast provides leavening power, bacteria create the distinct
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100~to~1. Whereas yeast provides leavening power, bacteria create the distinct
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flavours for which sourdough has been named. These are due to the acidic
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flavours for which sourdough has been named. These are due to the acidic
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byproducts that result from bacterial feeding. As a bonus, these acids
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byproducts that result from bacterial feeding. As a bonus, these acids
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can significantly increase the shelf life of sourdough
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can significantly increase the shelf life of sourdough
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@@ -384,7 +385,6 @@ fight would have to take place everywhere in the dough and not just in an
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isolated patch. More research on this topic is required to get a better understanding of
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isolated patch. More research on this topic is required to get a better understanding of
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the details of the relationship between yeast and bacteria.
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the details of the relationship between yeast and bacteria.
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One other interesting trait of sourdough bacteria worth mentioning is their
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One other interesting trait of sourdough bacteria worth mentioning is their
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ability to break down and consume the proteins in your dough. If you've baked
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ability to break down and consume the proteins in your dough. If you've baked
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sourdough before, chances are you've experienced this firsthand. You'll recall
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sourdough before, chances are you've experienced this firsthand. You'll recall
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