Add baking chapter (#17)

* Add baking chapter

This adds the chapter with information on how
to best bake in a home oven

* Fixes

book/baking/baking.tex

@@ -0,0 +1,308 @@
+Baking refers to the part of the process where you are loading
+your dough into the oven. This is typically done after your
+dough has gone through the bulk fermentation and proofing stage.
+
+Some other breads like flat breads
+could also be baked on the stove. This chapter is focusing on the
+home oven though.
+
+As the dough heats up the the water and acids
+in your dough start to evaporate. When baking
+a gluten based dough the bubbles in your dough start to expand.
+Your dough starts ro vertically rise. This is called oven spring.
+Your bread starts to build a crust of gel like consistency. The crust is still
+extensible and can be stretched.
+
+\begin{table}[!htb]
+  \centering
+  \resizebox{\textwidth}{!}{%
+  \begin{tabular}{|l|l|l|}
+  \hline
+  \textbf{°C  °F} & \textbf{Stage}         & \textbf{Description}                                                                                                                                           \\ \hline
+  60 - 140        & Sterilisation          & \begin{tabular}[c]{@{}l@{}}The temperature is too hot for your\\ microorganisms and they die\end{tabular}                                                      \\ \hline
+  75 - 167        & Gel building           & \begin{tabular}[c]{@{}l@{}}A gel builds on the surface persisting\\ your dough's structure. It is still\\ extensible and can spring in the\\ oven\end{tabular} \\ \hline
+  100 - 212       & Water evaporates       & \begin{tabular}[c]{@{}l@{}}Water begins to evaporate and\\ inflates your dough's alveoli\end{tabular}                                                          \\ \hline
+  118 - 244       & Acetic acid evaporates & \begin{tabular}[c]{@{}l@{}}The vinegary tasting acid starts\\ to evaporate. The sourness decreases\end{tabular}                                                \\ \hline
+  122 - 252       & Lactic acid evaporates & \begin{tabular}[c]{@{}l@{}}The dairy tasting lactic acid begins\\ to evaporate. Sourness further decreases\end{tabular}                                        \\ \hline
+  140 - 284       & Maillard reaction      & \begin{tabular}[c]{@{}l@{}}The maillard reaction starts to deform\\ starches and proteins. The dough starts\\ browning\end{tabular}                            \\ \hline
+  170 - 338       & Caramelization         & \begin{tabular}[c]{@{}l@{}}Remaining sugars begin to caramelise\\ giving your bread a distinct flavor\end{tabular}                                             \\ \hline
+  \end{tabular}%
+  }
+  \caption{The different stages of the baking process and their impact on your bread}
+\end{table}
+
+At around 60°C (140°F) the microbes in your dough start to die.
+There are rumors that until this happens the microbes produce
+a lot of CO2, resulting in the dough's expansion. This temperature
+is however reached quickly. Furthermore stress makes the microbes
+enter sporulation mode in order to focus on spreading genetics.
+More research should be done here to validate or invalidate this
+claim.
+
+At 75°C (167°F) the surface of your dough turns into a gel. It
+holds together nicely and is still extensible. This gel is essential
+for oven spring as it retains the gas of your dough very well.
+
+At around 100°C (212°F) the water starts to evaporate out of your
+dough. If this wasn't the case your dough would taste soggy and
+doughy. The higher hydration your dough has the more water your bread
+still contains after the bake. The crumb is going to taste a bit
+more moist. The consistency will be different.
+
+Another often undervalued step is the evaporation of acids. At
+118°C (244°F) the acetic acid in your dough starters to evaporate.
+Shortly after at 122°C (252°F) the lactic acid begins evaporating.
+This is crucial to understand and opens a door to many interesting
+ways to influence your final bread's taste. As more and more water
+begins to evaporate the acids in your dough become more concentrated.
+There is less water but in relation you have more acids. So a shorter
+bake will lead to a more tangy dough. The longer you bake the bread
+the more of the water evaporates, but also ultimately the acids will follow.
+They will be more concentrated. In absolute units though they
+will become less and less. The longer you bake the less sour
+your bread is going to be. So by baking you can
+influence which sourness level you would like to achieve.
+
+\begin{figure}[!htb]
+  \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{baking-experiment-temperatures.png}
+  \caption{This chart shows how surface temperatures change using
+  different steaming methods. In this case I used a dutch oven and an apple as
+  dough replacement. All the apples were coming from the fridge. The temperature
+  was measured using a barbecue thermometer.
+  The more steam the faster the surface temperature increases.}
+\end{figure}
+
+It would be a very interesting experiment to bake a bread at different exact
+temperatures. How would a bread taste with only evaporated water but
+full acidity? What if you were to just completely get rid of the acetic
+acid? How would the taste change?
+
+As the temperature increases
+the crust thickens. The maillard reaction kicks in further deforming
+proteins and starches. The outside of your dough starts to become
+browner and crisper. This process begins at around 140°C (284°F)
+
+Once the temperature increases even more to around 170°C (338°F)
+the caramelization process begins. The remaining sugars the microbes
+did not convert yet start to brown and darken. You can keep baking
+for as long as you like to achieve the crust color that you like.
+\footnote{This really depends a lot on your personal preference.
+Some people prefer a darker crust, others prefer a more pale crust.
+It's better to build less crust than too much. You can always just
+heat your bread in the oven one more time to continue building a
+darker crust.}
+
+The best option to know that your dough is done is to take
+the temperature of your dough. You can use a barbecue thermometer
+to measure it. Once the core temperature is at around 92°C (197°F)
+you can stop the baking process. This is typically not done though
+as the crust hasn't been built yet.\footnote{The thermometer is
+especially important when using a large loaf pan. It is sometimes
+very hard to judge from the outside if the dough is done. I failed
+many times and ended up having a semi baked dough.}
+
+Once your dough has finished baking it is ready to eat. Your
+dough has turned into a bread. At this
+point your bread is sterile as the temperature was too hot for
+for the microorganisms to survive.
+
+\section{The role of steam}
+
+Steam is essential when baking as it helps to counter premature
+crust building. During the first stage of the bake the dough
+increases in size. The water in your dough evaporates and pushes
+the whole dough upwards. 
+
+\begin{figure}[!htb]
+  \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{baking-process-steam.jpg}
+  \caption{How steam builds in your oven using the later described
+  inverted tray method}
+\end{figure}
+
+Normally under high heat a crust would form. Just like
+if you were to bake vegetables in your home oven. At some point
+they become darker and crisper. This is the same thing that
+happens with your dough. You want to delay this process
+as long as possible until your dough no longer expands.
+Expansion stops when most of the microbes have died and
+the evaporating water no longer stays inside the alveoli.
+The stronger the gluten network the more gas can be retained
+during the baking process. This gluten network at some point
+loses its ability to contain gas as the temperature heats
+up. The dough stops to increase in size. The steam plays
+an important role as it condenses and evaporates on top
+of your dough. The surface temperature is rapidly increasing
+to around 75°C (160°F). At this temperature the gel starts
+to build. This gel is still extensible and allows expansion.
+Without the steam the dough would never enter the gel stage,
+but instead directly go to the maillard reaction zone. You
+want your dough to stay in this gel stage as long as possible
+to achieve maximum expansion.\footnote{You can remove your
+dough from the oven after 5 minutes to see the gel. You will notice
+that it holds the doughs structure. It has a very interesting consistency.}
+
+\begin{figure}[!htb]
+  \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{baking-process-stage-2.jpg}
+  \caption{The second stage of the bake is done without steam to build
+  a thicker darker crust}
+\end{figure}
+
+When not steaming enough you will notice that the scoring
+incisions do not properly open up during the bake. They stay
+closed as the dough is unable to push through the crust.
+
+Furthermore a common sign is, that you have larger pockets
+of air towards the crust of your dough. As the dough increases
+vertically expansion is halted by the crust. The pockets
+of air converge into larger pockets as pressure increases.
+This can also happen when you are baking at a too hot temperature.
+
+The more you steam the softer your dough's crust is. You will never
+enter the maillard and caramelization stage. This
+is the reason why the source of steam is removed
+for the second stage of the bake. No more expansion can
+happen and you can focus on building a crust. If you
+would like a soft crust you can steam your dough all the
+way.
+
+\begin{figure}[!htb]
+  \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{baking-too-hot.jpeg}
+  \caption{A submission by Karomizu showing a bread that has been baked
+  at a too hot temperature or with too little steam. Note the large
+  pockets of air towards the crust. They are a typical indicator.}
+\end{figure}
+
+\section{Dutch ovens}
+
+Dutch ovens are an ideal way to bake with a lot of
+steam. They are not fully sealed. Regardless though
+as water evaporates from your dough it will create a steamy
+environment allowing your dough to rise. It really
+makes baking in a home oven very easy.
+
+When using a dutch oven make sure to preheat it properly,
+this way your dough will not stick to it. You can also
+use additional semolina flour or parchment paper. Another
+good trick is to spritz your dough with a bit of water.
+To create more steam you could also place a small ice cube
+next to your main dough.
+
+I have been using a dutch oven myself for a long time. They
+have issues though. They are relatively heavy. It is dangerous
+to operate hot cast iron ovens. Especially when working with steam
+you have to be very careful.  Furthermore
+they are expensive to buy. Then your dutch oven is made out
+of cast iron you have to season it from time to time. This takes
+time.
+
+The biggest disadvantage though is
+capacity. You can only bake a single bread at the
+same time. In many cases it makes sense to bake multiple
+loaves in one go. It makes the whole process more
+efficient as you have to knead less per loaf. The time it
+takes to make one bread significantly reduces. Furthermore
+you don't require as much energy. You don't have
+to preheat your oven twice for each individual loaf.
+
+
+\section{Inverted tray method}
+
+The inverted tray method simulates a dutch oven.
+By placing another tray on top of your dough the steam
+created from the dough and water source stays
+around your dough.
+
+\begin{figure}[!htb]
+  \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{baking-process-overview.jpg}
+  \caption{The full inverted tray method process}
+\end{figure}
+
+
+The biggest advantage of this method compared to the
+dutch oven is scalability. You can bake multiple loaves
+at the same time. In my case that is around 2 freestanding
+loaves and 4 loaves in a loaf pan.
+
+For the inverted tray you will need the following tools:
+\begin{itemize}
+\item 2 trays
+\item 1 heat resistant bowl
+\item Boiling water
+\item Oven gloves
+\item Optional parchment paper
+\end{itemize}
+
+\begin{figure}[!htb]
+  \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{baking-example.jpg}
+  \caption{My home oven setup}
+\end{figure}
+
+These are the steps to follow with the inverted tray method
+\begin{enumerate}
+\item Preheat the the oven to around 230°C (446°F)
+Preheat one of the trays
+\item Bring water to boil
+\item Place your doughs on a piece of parchment paper. You
+can also place each on a tiny piece of parchment paper
+this makes loading the dough easier. If you don't
+have it or don't want to use it, you can opt for 
+semolina flour. It helps to make the tray non stick
+\item Take out your hot tray and place it
+on a cooling rack, or on something else that
+is heat resistant
+\item Score your doughs
+\item Place your doughs on the hot tray
+\item Place the cold tray in your oven in an inverted position
+\item Move your hot tray including the loaves back
+to the oven
+\item Place the boiling water in the heat resistant
+water bowl. I have added rocks to it, it helps
+to improve the steam even further. This is optional
+\item Close the oven
+\item After 30 minutes remove the top tray. Also remove the bowl with water
+\item Finish baking your bread until you have reached your desired
+crust color. In my case this is another 15-25 minutes typically.
+\end{enumerate}
+
+\section{Conclusions}
+
+\begin{table}[]
+  \centering
+  \resizebox{\textwidth}{!}{%
+  \begin{tabular}{|l|l|l|l|}
+  \hline
+  \textbf{Oven type}                                                         & \textbf{Plain (no tools)} & \textbf{Inverted tray} & \textbf{Dutch oven} \\ \hline
+  Gas                                                                        & No                        & No                     & Yes                 \\ \hline
+  \begin{tabular}[c]{@{}l@{}}Convection\\ (Fan always on)\end{tabular}       & No                        & No                     & Yes                 \\ \hline
+  \begin{tabular}[c]{@{}l@{}}Convection\\ (Fan can be disabled)\end{tabular} & No                        & Yes                    & Yes                 \\ \hline
+  Steam                                                                      & Yes                       & Yes                    & Yes                 \\ \hline
+  \end{tabular}%
+  }
+  \caption{An overview of ovens and their different baking methods}
+\end{table}
+
+Depending on your home oven a different method
+of steaming should be used. Generally most ovens
+are made to vent out most of the steam during the
+bake. They are typically not fully closed. During
+baking you want to dry out whatever you are baking.
+This is ideal if you are baking vegetables and
+want them to dry out. For baking though this is
+highly problematic. As described earlier, you
+want there to be as much steam as possible.
+
+If you are using a gas based oven the only option
+is to utilize a dutch oven. The same is true when you
+are using a convection oven with a fan that
+can not be disabled. When using a convection
+oven with a fan that can be turned off, you can
+opt to use the cost efficient inverted tray
+method.
+
+If you are in the luxurious
+position to own a steam oven, things are easier.
+Just activate the steam function and you are
+good to go. Placing an additional tray on top of your
+dough during the bake helps to bake with indirect
+heat. You remain in the gel zone longer and
+will experience more oven spring.

book/book.tex

@@ -27,8 +27,11 @@
   {./troubleshooting/crumb-structures/}
   {./history/}
   {./images/external/}
+  {./baking/}
 }
 
+\interfootnotelinepenalty=10000
+
 \advance\cftsecnumwidth 0.5em\relax
 \advance\cftsubsecindent 0.5em\relax
 \advance\cftsubsecnumwidth 0.5em\relax
@@ -90,6 +93,7 @@
 \section{Optional Preshaping}
 \section{Shaping}
 \section{Proofing}
+\section{Scoring}
 
 \chapter{Non wheat bread basics}
 \section{Ingredients}
@@ -98,10 +102,7 @@
 \section{Proofing}
 
 \chapter{Baking}
-\section{The role of steam}
+\input{baking/baking}
-\section{Temperature}
-\section{Home oven setup}
-\section{Dutch ovens}
 
 \chapter{Storing bread}
 \section{Fridge}