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@@ -3,12 +3,12 @@ free-standing wheat sourdough bread.
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\begin{figure}[!htb]
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\begin{figure}[!htb]
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\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{loaf-pan-free-standing.jpg}
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\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{loaf-pan-free-standing.jpg}
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\caption{A free-standing sourdough bread next to a bread made in a loaf pan.
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\caption{A free-standing sourdough bread next to bread made in a loaf pan.
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The free-standing sourdough is considered the supreme discipline of sourdough bread by many bakers.
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Free-standing sourdough is considered the supreme discipline of sourdough bread by many bakers.
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}
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}
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\end{figure}
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\end{figure}
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A free-standing sourdough bread is my favorite
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Free-standing sourdough bread is my favorite
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type of bread. It combines a great crunchy crust, superb
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type of bread. It combines a great crunchy crust, superb
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flavor, and a soft fluffy crumb. This is the type of bread
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flavor, and a soft fluffy crumb. This is the type of bread
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that is being inhaled by my friends and family. Unfortunately
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that is being inhaled by my friends and family. Unfortunately
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@@ -16,7 +16,7 @@ making this type of bread requires a lot more effort, patience,
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and technique than other types of bread. You have to perfectly
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and technique than other types of bread. You have to perfectly
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balance the fermentation process. You can not ferment for too
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balance the fermentation process. You can not ferment for too
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short and also not for too long. The techniques you need to
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short and also not for too long. The techniques you need to
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learn require a bit more skill. It took me several attempts
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learn to require a bit more skill. It took me several attempts
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to get this right. One of the challenges I faced was that
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to get this right. One of the challenges I faced was that
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I had the wrong flour. I didn't properly know how to use my oven.
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I had the wrong flour. I didn't properly know how to use my oven.
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When should I stop the fermentation? There is a lot of information
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When should I stop the fermentation? There is a lot of information
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@@ -26,7 +26,7 @@ found another valuable puzzle piece. Aggregating all this
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information was one of my main motivations to start the bread code.
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information was one of my main motivations to start the bread code.
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My key learning was that there there is no recipe that
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My key learning was that there there is no recipe that
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you can blindly follow. You will always have to adapt the recipe
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you can blindly follow. You will always have to adapt the recipe
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to your local available tools and environment.
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to your locally available tools and environment.
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But do not worry. After reading this chapter you will know
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But do not worry. After reading this chapter you will know
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all the signs to look out for. You will be able to read your dough.
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all the signs to look out for. You will be able to read your dough.
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@@ -38,7 +38,7 @@ If you ever wanted to open up a bakery, consider this knowledge to
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be your foundation.
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be your foundation.
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Mastering this process will enable you to make amazing bread
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Mastering this process will enable you to make amazing bread
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that tastes much better than any store bought bread.
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that tastes much better than any store-bought bread.
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\section{The process}
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\section{The process}
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@@ -65,7 +65,7 @@ that tastes much better than any store bought bread.
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\path [line] (shape) -- (proof);
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\path [line] (shape) -- (proof);
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\path [line] (proof) -- (bake);
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\path [line] (proof) -- (bake);
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\end{tikzpicture}
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\end{tikzpicture}
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\caption{The typical process of making a wheat based sourdough bread}
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\caption{The typical process of making a wheat-based sourdough bread}
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\label{j:wheat-sourdough-process}
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\label{j:wheat-sourdough-process}
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\end{figure}
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\end{figure}
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@@ -93,7 +93,7 @@ dough into smaller pieces and preshape each piece. This allows
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you to apply more dough strength and shape more uniform loaves.
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you to apply more dough strength and shape more uniform loaves.
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The proofing stage follows where you finish the fermentation process.
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The proofing stage follows where you finish the fermentation process.
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Depending on your time you can proof at room temperature or in the fridge.
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Depending on your time you can proof it at room temperature or in the fridge.
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Mastering proofing will turn your good loaf into a great loaf.
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Mastering proofing will turn your good loaf into a great loaf.
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Lastly, you will finish the whole process by baking. You will learn different
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Lastly, you will finish the whole process by baking. You will learn different
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@@ -145,10 +145,10 @@ main dough.
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\path [line] (smell_check) -- node{no} (feed_yes_branch);
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\path [line] (smell_check) -- node{no} (feed_yes_branch);
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\path [line] (smell_check) -- node{yes} (make_dough);
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\path [line] (smell_check) -- node{yes} (make_dough);
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\end{tikzpicture}
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\end{tikzpicture}
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\caption{The process to ready and check your sourdough starter when making a wheat based dough. In practice
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\caption{The process to check your sourdough starter when making wheat-based doughs. In practice
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I frequently use a stiff sourdough starter. The stiff starter features enhanced yeast activity. In that case you can
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I frequently use a stiff sourdough starter. The stiff starter features enhanced yeast activity. In that case, you can
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use the same ratios as shown in the chart except the water quantity. The stiff starter has a hydration of 50 to
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use the same ratios as shown in the chart except for the water quantity. The stiff starter has a hydration of 50 to
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60 percent. So you would half the shown water quantities. I.e. if the chart shows 100g water, use 50 to 60g of water
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60 percent. So you would have half the shown water quantities. I.e. if the chart shows 100g of water, use 50 to 60g of water
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for your stiff starter.}
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for your stiff starter.}
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\label{fig:process-starter-wheat-sourdough}
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\label{fig:process-starter-wheat-sourdough}
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\end{figure}
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\end{figure}
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@@ -158,7 +158,7 @@ After mixing all the ingredients you have a green field environment again.
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The yeast and bacteria start to fight again to outcompete each other.
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The yeast and bacteria start to fight again to outcompete each other.
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There is plenty of food available and they all do their best to win.
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There is plenty of food available and they all do their best to win.
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Depending on the starter you mix into your dough some of the microorganisms
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Depending on the starter you mix into your dough some of the microorganisms
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might have an advantage over the others.
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might have an advantage over others.
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The first option to achieve a good balance is to apply feedings.
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The first option to achieve a good balance is to apply feedings.
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If your starter hasn't been fed in a long period the
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If your starter hasn't been fed in a long period the
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@@ -166,7 +166,7 @@ bacteria dominate. This happens if your starter has been
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sitting unused in the fridge for instance. As more and more
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sitting unused in the fridge for instance. As more and more
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acidity piles up the environment is becoming more and more hostile
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acidity piles up the environment is becoming more and more hostile
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to the yeast. The lactic acid bacteria tolerate this environment
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to the yeast. The lactic acid bacteria tolerate this environment
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better. Your dough fermentation would be more towards the
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better. Your dough fermentation would be more on the
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bacterial side with this starter. By applying a couple of
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bacterial side with this starter. By applying a couple of
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feedings the yeast becomes more active. The older your
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feedings the yeast becomes more active. The older your
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starter the more acid resistant the yeast becomes. Initially,
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starter the more acid resistant the yeast becomes. Initially,
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@@ -177,9 +177,9 @@ the microorganisms.
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Some people use a 1:1:1 ratio to refresh the starter. This would
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Some people use a 1:1:1 ratio to refresh the starter. This would
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be one part of the old starter (10g for instance), 1 part of flour,
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be one part of the old starter (10g for instance), 1 part of flour,
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and one part of water. I think this is utter rubbish. As mentioned
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and one part of water. I think this is utter rubbish. As mentioned
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your starter is a gigantic dough. You would never a 1:1:1 ratio to
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your starter is a gigantic dough. You would never opt for a 1:1:1 ratio to
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make a dough. You might use a maximum of 20 percent starter to
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make dough. You might use a maximum of 20 percent starter to
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make a dough. That's why I advocate using a 1:5:5 ratio or a
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make dough. That's why I advocate using a 1:5:5 ratio or a
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1:10:10 ratio depending on how ripe your starter is. As I almost
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1:10:10 ratio depending on how ripe your starter is. As I almost
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always use a stiffer sourdough starter due to its enhanced
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always use a stiffer sourdough starter due to its enhanced
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yeast fermentation advantages (see section \ref{section:stiff-starter})
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yeast fermentation advantages (see section \ref{section:stiff-starter})
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@@ -191,7 +191,7 @@ trick too to make starter feeding work with your schedule.
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If your starter is typically ready in 6 hours but today you need it
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If your starter is typically ready in 6 hours but today you need it
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ready later, simply increase how much flour/water you feed your starter.
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ready later, simply increase how much flour/water you feed your starter.
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These are all values that you need to experiment with on your own.
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These are all values that you need to experiment with on your own.
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Every starter is unique and might behave slightly different.
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Every starter is unique and might behave slightly differently.
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The second option at your disposal is the starter quantity that
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The second option at your disposal is the starter quantity that
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you use to make the dough. As previously stated your starter
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you use to make the dough. As previously stated your starter
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@@ -228,20 +228,20 @@ activity and judge its state.
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\section{Ingredients}
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\section{Ingredients}
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All you need to make a great sourdough bread is flour water and salt. You
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All you need to make great sourdough bread is flour water and salt. You
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can of course add additional things to your dough such as seeds. I personally
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can of course add additional things to your dough such as seeds. I personally
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enjoy the hearty taste of whole wheat. Thus I like to add around 20-30 percent
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enjoy the hearty taste of whole wheat. Thus I like to add around 20-30 percent
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of whole wheat flour to the mix. You could also make this recipe with 100 percent
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of whole wheat flour to the mix. You could also make this recipe with 100 percent
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whole wheat flour directly. In this case look out for a strong whole wheat
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whole wheat flour directly. In this case, look out for strong whole wheat
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flour that is made from flour with higher protein. If you don't like whole
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flour that is made from flour with higher protein. If you don't like whole
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wheat you can omit the flour from the recipe. Simply replace the listed
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wheat you can omit the flour from the recipe. Simply replace the listed
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quantity with bread flour. One thing to consider about whole wheat
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quantity with bread flour. One thing to consider about whole wheat
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flour is the increased enzymatic activity. By adding some whole wheat
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flour is its increased enzymatic activity. By adding some whole wheat
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flour you will speed up the whole fermentation process.
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flour you will speed up the whole fermentation process.
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Especially when getting started I recommend to use a bread flour which
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Especially when getting started I recommend using bread flour which
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contains more gluten than all purpose or cake flour. This is essential
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contains more gluten than all-purpose or cake flour. This is essential
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when trying to bake a free standing loaf with sourdough.
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when trying to bake a free-standing loaf with sourdough.
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Find below an example recipe for 1 loaf including baker's math calculation:
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Find below an example recipe for 1 loaf including baker's math calculation:
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@@ -276,7 +276,7 @@ full chapter \ref{section:bakers-math} which looks at the topic in detail.
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Hydration refers to how much water you use for your flour. When
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Hydration refers to how much water you use for your flour. When
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beginning to make bread I always got this wrong. I followed a recipe from the
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beginning to make bread I always got this wrong. I followed a recipe from the
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internet and my dough never looked like a dough shown in the recipe.
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internet and my dough never looked like the dough shown in the recipe.
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The amount of water your flour requires is not fixed. It depends on the flour
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The amount of water your flour requires is not fixed. It depends on the flour
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you have.
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you have.
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@@ -287,106 +287,105 @@ use a little bit more water.
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By forming gluten strands water is absorbed into your dough. The higher the
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By forming gluten strands water is absorbed into your dough. The higher the
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protein value the more water can be used.
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protein value the more water can be used.
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Some bakers like to use a highly hydrated dough to create a fluffier dough.
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Some bakers like to use highly hydrated doughs to create fluffier bread.
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\footnote{Sometimes it almost feels like a comparison of skill value between bakers. The
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\footnote{Sometimes it almost feels like a comparison of skill value between bakers. The
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more water they can handle, the more skillful the baker.} The reason for this
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more water they can handle, the more skillful the baker.} The reason for this
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is the dough's improved extensibility. The wetter the dough the easier it is
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is the dough's improved extensibility. The wetter the dough the easier it is
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for the dough to be stretched. When you pull it, the dough will hold its
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for the dough to be stretched. When you pull it, the dough will hold its
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shape. In comparison a very stiff (low hydration) dough will maintain its
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shape. In comparison, a very stiff (low hydration) dough will maintain its
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shape for a longer period of time. To visualize this think of your extensible
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shape for a longer period. To visualize this think of your extensible
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dough as a balloon. The stiff dough is a car tire. The yeast has a much harder
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dough as a balloon. The stiff dough is a car tire. The yeast has a much harder
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time to inflate the care tire compared to the balloon. That's because the
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time inflating the care tire compared to the balloon. That's because the
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rubber of the car tire is much more elastic. It requires much more force to
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rubber of the car tire is much more elastic. It requires much more force to
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inflate the tire. For this reason an extensible dough will inflate more in the
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inflate the tire. For this reason, an extensible dough will inflate more in the
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oven. The loaf will be visually bigger and offer an airier more open crumb structure.
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oven. The loaf will be visually bigger and offer an airier more open crumb structure.
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While this might sound great, the high hydration causes several side effects.
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While this might sound great, the high hydration causes several side effects.
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\begin{enumerate}
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\begin{enumerate}
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\item Your dough becomes more difficult to handle. Your dough will be stickier
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\item Your dough becomes more difficult to handle. Your dough will be stickier
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\item Your dough has to be kneaded for longer in order to build a proper gluten
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\item Your dough has to be kneaded for longer to build a proper gluten
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network.
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network.
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\item During the fermentation your dough might become too extensible and lose
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\item During the fermentation your dough might become too extensible and lose
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some of the dough strength. To circumvent this stretch and folds are applied
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some of the dough strength. To circumvent this stretch and folds are applied
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compared to a regular dough.
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compared to regular dough.
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requiring you to invest a lot more work.
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requiring you to invest a lot more work.
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\item Shaping becomes much more of a hassle as the dough is very sticky.
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\item Shaping becomes much more of a hassle as the dough is very sticky.
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\item The dough can stick to the banneton a lot easier while proofing.
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\item The dough can stick to the banneton a lot easier while proofing.
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\item If you wait too long during proofing the dough won't have enough strength
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\item If you wait too long during proofing the dough won't have enough strength
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left to pull upwards and stay flat.
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left to pull upwards and stay flat.
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\item Generally the higher the water content the more bacterial fermentation you
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\item Generally the higher the water content the more bacterial fermentation you
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have. Thus a wetter dough will reduce in gluten faster than a stiffer dough.
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have. Thus a wetter dough will reduce gluten faster than a stiffer dough.
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This is why you have to start the fermentation with a sourdough starter in
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This is why you have to start the fermentation with a sourdough starter in
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perfect shape. Bakers use a process called autolyse to shorten the main
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perfect shape. Bakers use a process called autolysis to shorten the main
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fermentation time to circumvent this.
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fermentation time to circumvent this.
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\item The crumb in the end might be perceived as somewhat sticky. It still
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\item The crumb, in the end, might be perceived as somewhat sticky. It still
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contains a lot of water. Personally I love this crumb, but this is a personal
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contains a lot of water. Personally, I love this crumb, but this is a personal
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choice.
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choice.
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\end{enumerate}
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\end{enumerate}
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To achieve a high hydration dough it is best to slowly add the water to
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To achieve a high-hydration dough it is best to slowly add water to
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your dough. Start with 60 percent hydration, then slowly add a bit more water. Knead
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your dough. Start with 60 percent hydration, then slowly add a bit more water. Knead
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again until the water is absorbed. Repeat and add more water. As your dough
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again until the water is absorbed. Repeat and add more water. As your dough
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has already formed a gluten network, new water can be absorbed much easier.
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has already formed a gluten network, new water can be absorbed much easier.
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You will be surprised by how much water your dough can soak up. This
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You will be surprised by how much water your dough can soak up. This
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method is commonly known as the bassinage method. More on that later.
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method is commonly known as the bassinage method. More on that later.
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By opting for this technique I was easily able to push a low
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By opting for this technique I was easily able to push a low-gluten flour to a hydration of 80 percent. This
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gluten flour to a hydration of 80 percent. This
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is also my method of choice when making dough now. I keep adding water until
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is also my method of choice when making a dough now. I keep adding water until
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I can feel that the dough has the right consistency. As you bake more bread
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I can feel that the dough has the right consistency. As you bake more bread
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you will develop a better look and feel for your dough. When mixing
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you will develop a better look and feel for your dough. When mixing
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by hand this can be quite cumbersome. It is a lot more easy when using a stand
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by hand this can be quite cumbersome. It is a lot easier when using a stand
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mixer.
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mixer.
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All in all increasing the hydration requires a lot of trial and error. There
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All in all, increasing hydration requires a lot of trial and error. There
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is however one option that makes things easier and causes less headache:
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is however one option that makes things easier and causes fewer headaches:
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Slow fermentation. You get the same extensibility advantages the high hydration
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Slow fermentation. You get the same extensibility advantages the high hydration
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offers by simply letting your dough ferment for a longer period of time.
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offers by simply letting your dough ferment for a longer period.
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Slowing the fermentation process is easy. Use less
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Slowing the fermentation process is easy. Use less
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sourdough starter or ferment in a cooler environment.
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sourdough starter or ferment in a cooler environment.
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There are two reasons for slow fermentation advantages.
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There are two reasons for the slow fermentation advantages.
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As explained earlier both the protease enzyme and bacteria break down your
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As explained earlier both the protease enzyme and bacteria break down your
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gluten network. So as fermentation progresses your dough will automatically
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gluten network. So as fermentation progresses your dough will automatically
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become more extensible. This is because the rubber layers of your care tire
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become more extensible. This is because the rubber layers of your car tire
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are slowly converted and eaten. Ultimately your car tire turns into a balloon
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are slowly converted and eaten. Ultimately your car tire turns into a balloon
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that can very easily be inflated. When waiting too long the
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that can very easily be inflated. When waiting too long the
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balloon will burst. You will have no gluten left anymore and your dough
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balloon will burst. You will have no gluten left anymore and your dough
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becomes very sticky. Finding the sweet spot of enough rubber eating and not
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becomes very sticky. Finding the sweet spot of enough rubber eating and not
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too much is what the perfect wheat sourdough bread bread is about. But don't worry, after reading
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too much is what the perfect wheat sourdough bread is about. But don't worry, after reading
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this chapter you will have the right tools at your disposal.
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this chapter you will have the right tools at your disposal.
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The advantages of slow fermentation can be nicely observed when experimenting
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The advantages of slow fermentation can be nicely observed when experimenting
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with a fast fermenting yeast dough (1 percent dry yeast based on the flour). The
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with a fast fermenting yeast dough (1 percent dry yeast based on flour). The
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crumb of such a dough is never as
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crumb of such a dough is never as
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open as a dough made with sourdough. Furthermore the protease enzyme
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open as a dough made with sourdough. Furthermore, the protease enzyme
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can not do its job within such a short fermentation period.
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can not do its job within such a short fermentation period.
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Large industrial bakeries add active malt which contains a
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Large industrial bakeries add active malt which contains a
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lot more enzymes. This way the time required to make a dough is shortened. You
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lot more enzymes. This way the time required to make the dough is shortened. You
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will most likely find malt as an ingredient in supermarket bread. It is a
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will most likely find malt as an ingredient in supermarket bread. It is a
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great hack. The baked turbo fermentation bread will feature a relatively dense
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great hack. The baked turbo fermentation bread will feature a relatively dense
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and not fluffy crumb. That is because only very little gluten is broken down when
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and not fluffy crumb. That is because only very little gluten is broken down when
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finishing the fermentation period in 1 hour. If you were to slow down things
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finishing the fermentation period in 1 hour. If you were to slow down things
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the dough would look completely different.
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the dough would look completely different.
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Try this again and use way less yeast. This is the
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Try this again and use way less yeast. This is the
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secret of the Neapolitan Pizza. Only a tiny bit of yeast is used to make the
|
secret of Neapolitan Pizza. Only a tiny bit of yeast is used to make the
|
||||||
dough. In fact my default pizza recipe calls for around 150 milligrams of dry
|
dough. My default pizza recipe calls for around 150 milligrams of dry
|
||||||
yeast per one kilogram of flour. Give it a shot yourself the next time you
|
yeast per kilogram of flour. Give it a shot yourself the next time you
|
||||||
make a yeast based dough. Try to push the fermentation to at least 8 hours.
|
make a yeast-based dough. Try to push the fermentation to at least 8 hours.
|
||||||
The difference is incredible. You will have made a bread with a much more
|
The difference is incredible. You will have made bread with a much more
|
||||||
fluffy and open crumb. The flavor of the dough is drastically improved. Your
|
fluffy and open crumb. The flavor of the dough is drastically improved. Your
|
||||||
crust becomes crisper and features a better taste. This is because amylases have
|
crust becomes crisper and features a better taste. This is because amylases have
|
||||||
converted your starches into simpler sugars which brown better during baking.
|
converted your starches into simpler sugars which brown better during baking.
|
||||||
If you take away one learning from this book, it is that slow fermentation is
|
If you take away one learning from this book, it is that slow fermentation is
|
||||||
the key to making great bread.
|
the key to making great bread.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
For this reason my default hydration is much lower than the hydration of other
|
For this reason, my default hydration is much lower than the hydration of other
|
||||||
bakers. I prefer a slower fermentation for my recipes.
|
bakers. I prefer slower fermentation for my recipes.
|
||||||
The sweet spot for my default flour is at around 70 percent hydration.
|
The sweet spot for my default flour is at around 70 percent hydration.
|
||||||
Again this is a highly subjective value that works for my flour.
|
Again this is a highly subjective value that works for my flour.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
If you are just getting started with a new batch of flour
|
If you are just getting started with a new batch of flour
|
||||||
I recommend to conduct the following test. This will help you to
|
I recommend conducting the following test. This will help you to
|
||||||
identify the sweet spot of your flour's hydration capabilities.
|
identify the sweet spot of your flour's hydration capabilities.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
Make 5 bowls with each 100g of flour. Add different slightly increasing
|
Make 5 bowls with each 100g of flour. Add different slightly increasing
|
||||||
@@ -401,13 +400,13 @@ water amounts to each of the bowls.
|
|||||||
\end{itemize}
|
\end{itemize}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
Proceed and mix the flour and water mixture until you see that there
|
Proceed and mix the flour and water mixture until you see that there
|
||||||
are no chunks of flour left. Wait 15 minutes and return to your doughs.
|
are no chunks of flour left. Wait 15 minutes and return to your dough.
|
||||||
Carefully pull the dough apart with your hands. Your dough should be elastic
|
Carefully pull the dough apart with your hands. Your dough should be elastic, holding
|
||||||
and hold together. Stretch your dough until very thin. Then hold it against a light.
|
together very well. Stretch your dough until very thin. Then hold it against a light.
|
||||||
You should be able to see through it. The flour water mixture that breaks without
|
You should be able to see through it. The flour water mixture that breaks without
|
||||||
seeing the windowpane is your no-go zone. Opt for a dough with
|
seeing the windowpane is your no-go zone. Opt for a dough with
|
||||||
less hydration than this value. You will know that your flour mix can go up to
|
less hydration than this value. You will know that your flour mix can go up to
|
||||||
65 percent hydration for instance. Use the left overs of this experiment
|
65 percent hydration for instance. Use the leftovers of this experiment
|
||||||
to feed your starter.
|
to feed your starter.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
@@ -418,8 +417,8 @@ to feed your starter.
|
|||||||
\end{figure}
|
\end{figure}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
From an economic perspective water is the cheapest component in your bread
|
From an economic perspective, water is the cheapest component in your bread
|
||||||
dough. When running a bakery a higher hydrated dough will weigh more have
|
dough. When running a bakery a higher hydrated dough will weigh more and have
|
||||||
lower production costs. The profit will be higher. This comes at the price
|
lower production costs. The profit will be higher. This comes at the price
|
||||||
of increasing labor costs and more potential failures due to the enhanced
|
of increasing labor costs and more potential failures due to the enhanced
|
||||||
difficulty.
|
difficulty.
|
||||||
@@ -427,41 +426,41 @@ difficulty.
|
|||||||
\section{How much starter?}
|
\section{How much starter?}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
Most bakers use around 20 percent sourdough starter based on the dough mass. I
|
Most bakers use around 20 percent sourdough starter based on the dough mass. I
|
||||||
recommend to go way lower to around 5 to 10 percent.
|
recommend going way lower to around 5 to 10 percent.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
By adjusting the amount of preferment you can influence the time your dough
|
By adjusting the amount of preferment you can influence the time your dough
|
||||||
requires in the bulk fermentation stage. The more starter you use the faster
|
requires in the bulk fermentation stage. The more starter you use the faster
|
||||||
this process is. The smaller the amount of starter the slower. With a higher
|
this process is. The smaller the starter quantity, the slower. With a higher
|
||||||
quantity of starter you are introducing more microorganisms to your main
|
quantity of starter, you are introducing more microorganisms to your main
|
||||||
dough. The higher this quantity the faster the rate of fermentation in your
|
dough. The higher this quantity the faster the rate of fermentation in your
|
||||||
dough is.
|
dough is.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
The other factor influecing the rate of fermentation is the temperature of
|
The other factor influencing the rate of fermentation is the temperature of
|
||||||
your dough. The warmer the temperature the faster the process, the colder the
|
your dough. The warmer the temperature the faster the process, the colder the
|
||||||
slower the process.
|
slower the process.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
While food is available the microorganisms will reproduce and increase in
|
While food is available the microorganisms will reproduce and increase in
|
||||||
quantity. The process is a self limiting process that stops when there is no
|
quantity. The process is a self-limiting process that stops when there is no
|
||||||
more food available. This can be compared to whine making where
|
more food available. This can be compared to whine making where
|
||||||
the yeast ultimately dies as ethanol levels increase and turn the environment
|
the yeast ultimately dies as ethanol levels increase and turn the environment
|
||||||
toxic. The ethanol creates a preservant that makes it impossible for other
|
toxic. The ethanol creates a preserving that makes it impossible for other
|
||||||
microorganisms to join the feast. The same thing happens with the acidity
|
microorganisms to join the feast. The same thing happens with the acidity
|
||||||
created by the bacteria. The high acidity slows the fermentation process and
|
created by the bacteria. The high acidity slows the fermentation process and
|
||||||
prevents new microorganisms from entering the system.
|
prevents new microorganisms from entering the system.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
Initially your starter's properties are carried over to the main dough. Then
|
Initially, your starter's properties are carried over to the main dough. Then
|
||||||
as time progresses the microorganisms adapt to the new environment. If your
|
as time progresses the microorganisms adapt to the new environment. If your
|
||||||
starter is very bacterial then so will be your main dough's fermentation. You
|
starter is very bacterial then so will your main dough's fermentation. You
|
||||||
end up with a dough that is not as fluffy as it could be. It will taste quite
|
end up with a dough that is not as fluffy as it could be. It will taste quite
|
||||||
sour, too sour for most people.
|
sour, too sour for most people.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
If you were to use an extreme value of around 90 percent starter based on your flour there
|
If you were to use an extreme value of around 90 percent starter based on your flour there
|
||||||
would be very little room for the microorganisms to adjust in the main dough.
|
would be very little room for the microorganisms to adjust in the main dough.
|
||||||
If you were to just use 1 percent, your microorganisms can regrow into a
|
If you were to just use 1 percent, your microorganisms can regrow into a
|
||||||
desirable balance in the dough. Furthermore you need to consider that a high value
|
desirable balance in the dough. Furthermore, you need to consider that a high value
|
||||||
of starter means a high inoculation with already fermented flour. As
|
of starter means a high inoculation with already fermented flour. As
|
||||||
mentioned earlier enzymes break down the dough. This means the higher this
|
mentioned earlier enzymes break down the dough. This means the higher this
|
||||||
value the more broken down fermented flour you have. A too long fermentation
|
value the more broken-down fermented flour you have. A too-long fermentation
|
||||||
always results in a very sticky dough that can not be handled. The more
|
always results in a very sticky dough that can not be handled. The more
|
||||||
starter you use the faster you will get to this point. If you were to use a
|
starter you use the faster you will get to this point. If you were to use a
|
||||||
very little amount of starter your flour might have naturally broken down
|
very little amount of starter your flour might have naturally broken down
|
||||||
@@ -479,68 +478,68 @@ at around 25°C in the kitchen.). In winter times I opt for around 10 percent
|
|||||||
up to 20 percent sourdough starter (kitchen temperature around 20°C). This
|
up to 20 percent sourdough starter (kitchen temperature around 20°C). This
|
||||||
allows me to use a sourdough starter that's not in perfect condition. Your
|
allows me to use a sourdough starter that's not in perfect condition. Your
|
||||||
bread dough is essentially a gigantic starter. The low inoculation rate allows
|
bread dough is essentially a gigantic starter. The low inoculation rate allows
|
||||||
the starter to regrow inside of your main dough into a desirable balance.
|
the starter to regrow inside your main dough into a desirable balance.
|
||||||
Furthermore the enzymes have enough time to break down the flour. This also
|
Furthermore, the enzymes have enough time to break down the flour. This also
|
||||||
allows me to skip the so called autolysis step completely (more in next chapter).
|
allows me to skip the so-called autolysis step completely (more in the next chapter).
|
||||||
Making a dough becomes very simple.
|
Making dough becomes very simple.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
\section{Autolyse}
|
\section{Autolyse}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
The autolysis describes the process of just mixing flour and water and letting
|
Autolysis describes the process of just mixing flour and water and letting
|
||||||
this sit for a period of around 30 minutes up to several hours. After this
|
this sit for a period of around 30 minutes up to several hours. After this
|
||||||
process is completed the sourdough starter and salt is added to the
|
process is completed the sourdough starter and salt are added to the
|
||||||
dough.\footnote{I have tested adding the salt at the start and end of the
|
dough.\footnote{I have tested adding the salt at the start and end of the
|
||||||
autolysis process and could not notice a difference. Based ony my current
|
autolysis process and could not notice a difference. Based on my current
|
||||||
understanding the importance of adding salt later seems to be a myth.}
|
understanding the importance of adding salt later seems to be a myth.}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
The overall time flour and water is in contact is extended. Thus you get the
|
The overall time flour and water are in contact is extended. Thus you get the
|
||||||
beneficial enzymatic reactions that improve taste and characteristics of the
|
beneficial enzymatic reactions that improve the taste and characteristics of the
|
||||||
dough. I do not recommend an autolysis as it adds an additional step in the
|
dough. I do not recommend autolysis as it adds an unnecessary step to the
|
||||||
process. Instead I recommend the fermentolyse which will be covered in the
|
process. Instead, I recommend the fermentolysis technique which will be covered in the
|
||||||
next chapter of this book.
|
next chapter of this book.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
The effects of the autolysis are very interesting. Try to mix just flour and
|
The effects of autolysis are very interesting. Try to mix just flour and
|
||||||
water and letting that sit for a day. During the day check the consistency of
|
water and let that sit for a day. During the day check the consistency of
|
||||||
your dough. Try and stretch the dough. If you dare you can also taste the
|
your dough. Try and stretch the dough. If you dare you can also taste the
|
||||||
dough throughout the day. With each hour progressing your dough will become
|
dough throughout the day. With each hour progressing your dough will become
|
||||||
more extensible. It will be easier to stretch the dough. At the same time your
|
more extensible. It will be easier to stretch the dough. At the same time, your
|
||||||
dough will start to taste sweet and sweeter. The protease and amylase enzymes
|
dough will start to taste sweet and sweeter. The protease and amylase enzymes
|
||||||
are doing their job. The same process is used when making oat milk. By letting
|
are doing their job. The same process is used when making oat milk. By letting
|
||||||
the mixture sit for some time enzymes work the oats. The taste is perceived as
|
the mixture sit for some time enzymes work the oats. The taste is perceived as
|
||||||
sweeter and more appreciated. This process is further accelerated the more
|
sweeter and more appreciated. This process is further accelerated the more
|
||||||
whole wheat your flour is. The hull contains more enzymes. The gluten network
|
whole wheat your flour is. The hull contains more enzymes. The gluten network
|
||||||
will ultimately tear and your dough flattens out. For wheat sourdough this is
|
will ultimately tear and your dough flattens out. For wheat sourdough, this is
|
||||||
your worst enemy. When this happen your dough will become leaky and release
|
your worst enemy. When this happens your dough will become leaky and release
|
||||||
all that precious gas created during the fermentation. You need to find the
|
all that precious gas created during the fermentation. You need to find the
|
||||||
right balance of your dough breaking down just enough and not too much.
|
right balance of your dough breaking down just enough and not too much.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
When you use a high inoculation rate of around 20 percent sourdough starter
|
When you use a high inoculation rate of around 20 percent sourdough starter
|
||||||
your fermentation can be very quick. At 25°C it could be finished in 5 hours
|
your fermentation can be very quick. At 25°C it could be finished in 5 hours
|
||||||
already. If you ferment longer your dough becomes leaky. At the same time in
|
already. If you ferment longer your dough becomes leaky. At the same time in
|
||||||
these 5 hours the enzymes have not broken down the flour enough. This means
|
these 5 hours, the enzymes have not broken down the flour enough. This means
|
||||||
the dough might not be as elastic as it should be. Furthermore not enough
|
the dough might not be as elastic as it should be. Furthermore not enough
|
||||||
sugars have been released and thus the flavor after baking is not good enough.
|
sugars have been released and thus the flavor after baking is not good enough.
|
||||||
\footnote{I have not seen studies yet looking at enzymatic speeds depending on
|
\footnote{I have not seen studies yet looking at enzymatic speeds depending on
|
||||||
the temperature. But I assume the higher the temperature the faster these
|
the temperature. But I assume the higher the temperature the faster these
|
||||||
reactions. This goes up until to a point when the enzymes break down under
|
reactions. This goes up until a point when the enzymes break down under
|
||||||
heat.} That's why bakers opt for the autolyse. The autolyse starts the enzymatic
|
heat.} That's why bakers opt for autolysis. The autolysis starts the enzymatic
|
||||||
reactions before the microorganism fermentation begins. This way after 2 hours
|
reactions before the microorganism fermentation begins. This way after 2 hours
|
||||||
of autolysis (an example) and 5 hours of fermentation the dough is in the
|
of autolysis (an example) and 5 hours of fermentation the dough is in the
|
||||||
perfect state before beginning proofing.
|
perfect state before beginning proofing.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
When you try to mix your salt and starter into the flour/water dough you will
|
When you try to mix your salt and starter into the flour/water dough you will
|
||||||
notice how cumbersome this is. It feels like you have to knead again from scratch
|
notice how cumbersome this is. It feels like you have to knead again from scratch
|
||||||
one more time. You will spend more time on mixing a dough.
|
one more time. You will spend more time mixing dough.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
For that reason I am advocating to utilize the fermentolyse which simplifies
|
For that reason, I am strongly advocating utilizing the fermentolysis approach
|
||||||
the mixing and kneading process greatly.
|
which greatly simplifies the mixing and kneading process.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
\section{Fermentolyse}
|
\section{Fermentolysis}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
The fermentolyse creates you the same advantageous dough properties the
|
The fermentolysis creates you the same advantageous dough properties the
|
||||||
autolysis creates without the headache of mixing your dough twice. You do this
|
autolysis creates without the headache of mixing your dough twice. You do this
|
||||||
by extending the fermentation time of your dough. Rather than doing a 2 hour
|
by extending the fermentation time of your dough. Rather than doing a 2-hour
|
||||||
autolysis and 5 hour bulk fermentation you opt for an overall 7 hour
|
autolysis and 5-hour bulk fermentation you opt for an overall 7-hour
|
||||||
fermentation period.
|
fermentation period.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
To do this you use less sourdough starter. A conventional recipe including the
|
To do this you use less sourdough starter. A conventional recipe including the
|
||||||
@@ -562,36 +561,36 @@ environment and thus reduce the speed at which your microorganisms replicate.
|
|||||||
\caption{A table visualizing how much sourdough starter to use depending on temperature and the starter's activity level}
|
\caption{A table visualizing how much sourdough starter to use depending on temperature and the starter's activity level}
|
||||||
\end{table}
|
\end{table}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
Based on my experience and my sourdough my ideal breads always take around 8
|
Based on my experience and my sourdough my ideal bread always take around 8
|
||||||
to 12 hours during the bulk fermentation. Based on my availability throughout
|
to 12 hours during bulk fermentation. Based on my availability throughout
|
||||||
the day I use more or less starter. If I wanted to achieve a completed
|
the day I use a higher or lower starter quantity. If I wanted to achieve a completed
|
||||||
fermentation in 8 hours I would opt for 10 percent sourdough starter. If I
|
fermentation in 8 hours I would opt for a 10 percent sourdough starter. If I
|
||||||
wanted it to be ready in 12 hours I would use less starter, around 5 percent.
|
wanted it to be ready in 12 hours I would opt for less starter, around 5 percent.
|
||||||
Simply mix together all the ingredients and your fermentation begins. The
|
Simply mix all the ingredients and your fermentation begins. The
|
||||||
enzymes and microorganisms commence their work. On a very warm summer day the
|
enzymes and microorganisms commence their work. On a very warm summer day, the
|
||||||
mentioned quantities no longer work. With 10 percent starter the same dough
|
mentioned quantities no longer work. With a 10 percent starter, the same dough
|
||||||
would be ready in 5 hours up to a point of no return. Another additional hour
|
would be ready in 5 hours up to a point of no return. Another additional hour
|
||||||
would cause the dough to break down too much. In this case I would opt for 5
|
would cause the dough to break down too much. In this case, I would opt for 5
|
||||||
percent sourdough starter to slow the whole process down to reach the 8 to 12
|
percent sourdough starter to slow the whole process down to reach the 8 to 12
|
||||||
hour window again. If it is very hot I might use as little as 1 percent
|
hour window again. If it is very hot I might use as little as 1 percent
|
||||||
sourdough starter.\footnote{Please take these values with a grain of salt as
|
sourdough starter.\footnote{Please take these values with a grain of salt as
|
||||||
they depend on your flour and your sourdough starter. These are values that
|
they depend on your flour and your sourdough starter. These are values that
|
||||||
you have to experiment with. After baking a couple of breads you will be able
|
you have to experiment with. After baking a couple of breads you will be able
|
||||||
to read your dough much better.} You have to play with the timings on your own.
|
to read your dough much better.} You have to play with the timings on your own.
|
||||||
Rather than relying on timing I will show you a much better and more precise approach
|
Rather than relying on timing though, I will show you a much better and more precise approach
|
||||||
by using a fermentation sample. This will be covered later in this chapter.
|
by using a fermentation sample. This will be covered later in this chapter.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
Even for yeasted doughs I no longer use an autolysis. I just reduce the amount
|
Even for yeasted doughs I no longer use autolysis. I just reduce the amount
|
||||||
of yeast that I am using. Opting for the fermentolysis will
|
of yeast that I am using. Opting for the fermentolysis will
|
||||||
save you time and simplify your bread making. As mentioned in previous chapters,
|
save you time and simplify your bread-making process. As mentioned in previous chapters,
|
||||||
the secret to making great bread is a slow but not too slow fermentation.
|
the secret to making great bread is a slow but not too slow fermentation.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
\section{Dough strength}
|
\section{Dough strength}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
Dough strength is a fancy way to describe the bread kneading process. As you wait and
|
Dough strength is a fancy way to describe the bread-kneading process. As you wait and
|
||||||
knead the gluten bonds in your dough become stronger. The dough
|
knead the gluten bonds in your dough become stronger. The dough
|
||||||
becomes more elastic and holds together better. This is the basis for trapping
|
becomes more elastic and holds together better. This is the basis for trapping
|
||||||
all the gases during the fermentation process. Without the gluten network
|
all the gases during the fermentation process. Without the gluten network,
|
||||||
the gases would just diffuse out of your dough.
|
the gases would just diffuse out of your dough.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
\begin{figure}[!htb]
|
\begin{figure}[!htb]
|
||||||
@@ -624,7 +623,7 @@ the gases would just diffuse out of your dough.
|
|||||||
\node [block, below of=dough_ball, node distance=3cm] (begin_bulk) {\footnotesize Begin bulk fermentation};
|
\node [block, below of=dough_ball, node distance=3cm] (begin_bulk) {\footnotesize Begin bulk fermentation};
|
||||||
\path [line] (dough_ball) -- (begin_bulk);
|
\path [line] (dough_ball) -- (begin_bulk);
|
||||||
\end{tikzpicture}
|
\end{tikzpicture}
|
||||||
\caption{The gluten development process for a wheat based dough}
|
\caption{The gluten development process for a wheat-based dough}
|
||||||
\label{fig:wheat-sourdough-kneading-process}
|
\label{fig:wheat-sourdough-kneading-process}
|
||||||
\end{figure}
|
\end{figure}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
@@ -639,14 +638,14 @@ hydrated. Disulfide bonds enable the longer portions of
|
|||||||
glutenin to join with one another and form sturdy, extensible molecules.
|
glutenin to join with one another and form sturdy, extensible molecules.
|
||||||
Glutenins add strength, whilst the more compact gliadin proteins allow
|
Glutenins add strength, whilst the more compact gliadin proteins allow
|
||||||
the dough to flow like a fluid. Ultimately the longer you wait, the more
|
the dough to flow like a fluid. Ultimately the longer you wait, the more
|
||||||
your gluten network transforms into a web like structure. This is what
|
your gluten network transforms into a web-like structure. This is what
|
||||||
traps the gases during the fermentation process. \cite{how+does+gluten+work}.
|
traps the gases during the fermentation process. \cite{how+does+gluten+work}.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
\begin{figure}[!htb]
|
\begin{figure}[!htb]
|
||||||
\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{dough-strength-sourdough-yeast}
|
\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{dough-strength-sourdough-yeast}
|
||||||
\caption{A schematic visualization of
|
\caption{A schematic visualization of
|
||||||
automatic gluten development. The doughs are not kneaded, just initially
|
automatic gluten development. The doughs are not kneaded, just initially
|
||||||
mixed. Note how the dough strength
|
mixed. Note how dough strength
|
||||||
deteriorates over time as enzymes break down the flour. The effect
|
deteriorates over time as enzymes break down the flour. The effect
|
||||||
is accelerated for sourdough due to the bacteria's gluten proteolysis.
|
is accelerated for sourdough due to the bacteria's gluten proteolysis.
|
||||||
}
|
}
|
||||||
@@ -659,7 +658,7 @@ The soaking process has to be extended the more whole wheat flour is used.
|
|||||||
The purpose of the wheat kernel's outer bran is to soak up water as fast
|
The purpose of the wheat kernel's outer bran is to soak up water as fast
|
||||||
as possible. The enzymes become activated and start the sprouting process.
|
as possible. The enzymes become activated and start the sprouting process.
|
||||||
Because of this less water is available for the gluten bonds to develop.
|
Because of this less water is available for the gluten bonds to develop.
|
||||||
Either wait a bit longer, or proceed and use slightly more water for
|
Either wait a bit longer or proceed and use slightly more water for
|
||||||
the dough.
|
the dough.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
This is the same principle that popular no-knead recipes follow. By making a less
|
This is the same principle that popular no-knead recipes follow. By making a less
|
||||||
@@ -668,23 +667,23 @@ have to mix and homogenize the ingredients. You wait a few minutes just to
|
|||||||
find your dough having developed incredible dough strength with no additional
|
find your dough having developed incredible dough strength with no additional
|
||||||
kneading.\footnote{Give it a shot yourself. The automatic formation of gluten
|
kneading.\footnote{Give it a shot yourself. The automatic formation of gluten
|
||||||
networks is an amazing phenomenon that still fascinates me every time I am
|
networks is an amazing phenomenon that still fascinates me every time I am
|
||||||
making a dough.}
|
making dough.}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
If you over hydrate your dough at the beginning it becomes more difficult
|
If you overhydrate your dough at the beginning it becomes more difficult
|
||||||
for the gluten chains to form. The molecules are not as close together in
|
for the gluten chains to form. The molecules are not as close together in
|
||||||
a wetter dough compared to a stiffer dough. It is harder for the molecules
|
a wetter dough compared to a stiffer dough. It is harder for the molecules
|
||||||
to align and form the web structure. For this reason it is always easier
|
to align and form the web structure. For this reason, it is always easier
|
||||||
to start with a lower hydration and then increase the water quantity if needed.
|
to start with lower hydration and then increase the water quantity if needed.
|
||||||
This is also commonly known as the \textit{Bassinage method}. The gluten
|
This is also commonly known as the \textit{Bassinage method}. The gluten
|
||||||
bonds have formed at the lower hydration and can then be made more extensible
|
bonds have formed at the lower hydration and can then be made more extensible
|
||||||
by adding water and kneading again. This is a great trick to make
|
by adding water and kneading again. This is a great trick to make
|
||||||
a more extensible dough with a lower gluten flour. \cite{bassinage+technique}
|
a more extensible dough with lower gluten flour. \cite{bassinage+technique}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
When machine kneading a dough opt for the same technique shown in figure \ref*{fig:wheat-sourdough-kneading-process}.
|
When machine kneading a dough opt for the same technique shown in figure \ref*{fig:wheat-sourdough-kneading-process}.
|
||||||
Initially opt for a low speed. This helps the homogenization process.
|
Initially opt for a low speed. This helps the homogenization process.
|
||||||
After waiting to allow the flour to soak up the water, proceed on a higher speed
|
After waiting to allow the flour to soak up the water, proceed on a higher speed
|
||||||
setting. A good sign of a well developed gluten network is
|
setting. A good sign of a well-developed gluten network is
|
||||||
that your dough lets go of the container. This is because the gluten's elasticity.
|
that your dough lets go of the container. This is because of the gluten's elasticity.
|
||||||
The elasticity is higher than the urge of the
|
The elasticity is higher than the urge of the
|
||||||
dough to stick to the container.
|
dough to stick to the container.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
@@ -701,7 +700,7 @@ dough to stick to the container.
|
|||||||
|
|
||||||
Generally the more dough strength you create, the less sticky your dough is going to
|
Generally the more dough strength you create, the less sticky your dough is going to
|
||||||
feel. As the dough holds together it will no longer stick to your hands as
|
feel. As the dough holds together it will no longer stick to your hands as
|
||||||
much. This is a common problem beginners face. A sticky dough is frequently
|
much. This is a common problem beginners face. Sticky dough is frequently
|
||||||
the sign of a not well enough developed gluten network.
|
the sign of a not well enough developed gluten network.
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
\begin{figure}[!htb]
|
\begin{figure}[!htb]
|
||||||
@@ -715,9 +714,9 @@ the sign of a not well enough developed gluten network.
|
|||||||
\end{figure}
|
\end{figure}
|
||||||
|
|
||||||
Kneading more is great in almost all cases. You'll have a stronger
|
Kneading more is great in almost all cases. You'll have a stronger
|
||||||
gluten network. Only in case you are making soft milk breads you
|
gluten network. Only in case you are making soft milk breads, you
|
||||||
might want to have a more extensible dough to begin with. For every
|
might want to have a more extensible dough, to begin with. For every
|
||||||
other type of wheat based dough kneading is helpful. When you use
|
other type of wheat-based dough kneading is helpful. When you use
|
||||||
a stand mixer, you can run into the issue of kneading too much. This
|
a stand mixer, you can run into the issue of kneading too much. This
|
||||||
is hardly possible though. Even after kneading for 30 minutes on medium
|
is hardly possible though. Even after kneading for 30 minutes on medium
|
||||||
speed my doughs hardly ever were over-kneaded. The moment you knead
|
speed my doughs hardly ever were over-kneaded. The moment you knead
|
||||||
@@ -734,8 +733,8 @@ create a smooth dough ball. By making sure your dough's surface is
|
|||||||
smooth you will have fewer touch points when touching the dough.
|
smooth you will have fewer touch points when touching the dough.
|
||||||
See figure \ref{fig:dough-touch-points} for a schematic visualization
|
See figure \ref{fig:dough-touch-points} for a schematic visualization
|
||||||
of how your hand touches a rugged and smooth dough.
|
of how your hand touches a rugged and smooth dough.
|
||||||
With the smooth surface your dough is going to stick less on your hands. Applying
|
With the smooth surface, your dough is going to stick less on your hands. Applying
|
||||||
later stretch and folds will be a lot easier. Without a smooth
|
later stretches and folds will be a lot easier. Without a smooth
|
||||||
surface, the dough becomes almost unworkable. Folding the dough later
|
surface, the dough becomes almost unworkable. Folding the dough later
|
||||||
becomes an impossible task. This is a frequent mistake I see many
|
becomes an impossible task. This is a frequent mistake I see many
|
||||||
new bakers commit.
|
new bakers commit.
|
||||||
@@ -1027,7 +1026,7 @@ before, your dough is nothing but a gigantic starter. You
|
|||||||
can also proceed and taste your dough. It will taste like
|
can also proceed and taste your dough. It will taste like
|
||||||
pickled food. Depending on the acidity you can judge how
|
pickled food. Depending on the acidity you can judge how
|
||||||
far the dough is in the fermentation process. The final bread
|
far the dough is in the fermentation process. The final bread
|
||||||
will taste less sour. That's because a lot of acid evaporates
|
will taste less sour. That's because a lot of acidity evaporates
|
||||||
during baking.\footnote{More on this topic later.
|
during baking.\footnote{More on this topic later.
|
||||||
Just by baking longer and/or shorter, you can control
|
Just by baking longer and/or shorter, you can control
|
||||||
the tang of your final baked bread. The longer
|
the tang of your final baked bread. The longer
|
||||||
|
|||||||
Reference in New Issue
Block a user