diff --git a/.gitignore b/.gitignore index 8340a04..90fd844 100644 --- a/.gitignore +++ b/.gitignore @@ -5,3 +5,7 @@ *.synctex.gz *.toc *.pdf +*.bbl +*.bcf +*.blg +*.run.xml diff --git a/.vscode/spellright.dict b/.vscode/spellright.dict new file mode 100644 index 0000000..576dfa8 --- /dev/null +++ b/.vscode/spellright.dict @@ -0,0 +1,7 @@ + +preshaping +Preshaping +Underfermented +underproofed +underfermented +underfermentation diff --git a/book/book.tex b/book/book.tex index 9fb1ec3..3f1a171 100644 --- a/book/book.tex +++ b/book/book.tex @@ -8,9 +8,11 @@ \usepackage{filecontents} \usepackage{longtable} \usepackage[T1]{fontenc} +\usepackage[backend=biber]{biblatex} +\addbibresource{references.bib} +\usepackage[skip=5pt plus1pt, indent=0pt]{parskip} - -\graphicspath{ {./images/} } +\graphicspath{ {./images/}{./troubleshooting/crumb-structures/} } \title{% @@ -111,7 +113,9 @@ \section{Frozen} \chapter{Troubleshooting} + \section{Debugging your crumb structure} +\input{troubleshooting/crumb-structures/crumb-structures} \section{Baking in the tropics} \section{My bread stays flat} \section{I want more tang in my bread} @@ -121,4 +125,7 @@ \section{Liquid on top of my starter} \section{Why does my starter smell like acetone} +\printbibliography + + \end{document} \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/book/images/apple-experiment-ambient-temperatures.jpg b/book/images/apple-experiment-ambient-temperatures.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4325cea Binary files /dev/null and b/book/images/apple-experiment-ambient-temperatures.jpg differ diff --git a/book/images/apple-experiment-surface-temperatures.jpg b/book/images/apple-experiment-surface-temperatures.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..dcc0120 Binary files /dev/null and b/book/images/apple-experiment-surface-temperatures.jpg differ diff --git a/book/images/apple-experiment-temperatures.jpeg b/book/images/apple-experiment-temperatures.jpeg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..afb01c0 Binary files /dev/null and b/book/images/apple-experiment-temperatures.jpeg differ diff --git a/book/references.bib b/book/references.bib new file mode 100644 index 0000000..fafaba1 --- /dev/null +++ b/book/references.bib @@ -0,0 +1,17 @@ +@article{raffaella+di+cagno, + author = {Di Cagno, Raffaella et al.}, + title = {Proteolysis by sourdough lactic acid bacteria: + effects on wheat flour protein fractions and + gliadin peptides involved in human cereal intolerance}, + journal = {Applied and environmental microbiology}, + publisher = {Dover}, + volume = {68,2} +} + +@misc{too+hot+baking, + title = {Avoid baking too hot}, + author = {Hendrik Kleinwächter}, + howpublished = {\url{https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BUtn4HKAiBs}}, + year = {2021}, + note = {Accessed: 2022-03-24} +} \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/book/troubleshooting/crumb-structures/baked-too-hot-v2.JPG b/book/troubleshooting/crumb-structures/baked-too-hot-v2.JPG new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2b6fa4f Binary files /dev/null and b/book/troubleshooting/crumb-structures/baked-too-hot-v2.JPG differ diff --git a/book/troubleshooting/crumb-structures/baked-too-hot.JPG b/book/troubleshooting/crumb-structures/baked-too-hot.JPG new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c110f1b Binary files /dev/null and b/book/troubleshooting/crumb-structures/baked-too-hot.JPG differ diff --git a/book/troubleshooting/crumb-structures/crumb-structures.tex b/book/troubleshooting/crumb-structures/crumb-structures.tex new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d67e39e --- /dev/null +++ b/book/troubleshooting/crumb-structures/crumb-structures.tex @@ -0,0 +1,310 @@ +The crumb structure of your bread provides insights on how well +your fermentation process has gone. You can also spot common flaws +of improper technique. This chapter will provide you with information +that you can use to debug your baking process. + +\subsection{Perfect fermentation} + +\begin{figure} + \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{open-crumb} + \caption{The bread has a somewhat open crumb with areas + featuring a honeycomb structure.} + \label{fig:open-crumb} +\end{figure} + +Of course the perfect fermentation is debatable and highly subjective. To +me the perfect sourdough bread features a crisp crust paired with a fluffy +somewhat open crumb. This is the perfect balance of different consistencies +when you take a bite. + +Some people are chasers of a very open crumb, meaning you have large pockets +of air (alveoli). It's subjective whether that's the style of bread that you like, +however to achieve it you need to ferment your bread dough perfectly on point. +It takes a lot of skill both in terms of mastering fermentation and technique +to achieve a crumb structure like that. + +Me personally I like a bread like that, just with a slightly less wild crumb. +The style of crumb I like is called the {\it honeycomb crumb}. It's not too open, but +just enough open to make the bread very fluffy. To achieve the previously mentioned open crumb you +have to touch your dough as little as possible. The more you interact with your +dough the more you are degassing your dough. Excess touching of the dough +results in the dough's alveoli merging together. The crumb will not be as open. +That's why achieving such a crumb works best if you only ferment +one dough at the same time. Normally if you have to preshape your dough, +you will automatically degas your dough a little bit during the rounding process. +If you skip this step and directly shape your dough you will achieve a more open crumb. +A good rule of thumb is to not touch your dough for at least 1-2 hours before shaping, +to achieve an as open crumb as possible. + +\begin{figure} + \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{honeycomb} + \caption{A whole wheat sourdough with an almost exclusive honeycomb crumb structure.} + \label{fig:honeycomb} +\end{figure} + + +Now this is problematic when you want to +make multiple breads at the same time. Preshaping is essential as you are required +to divide your large bulk dough into smaller chunks. Without the preshaping +process you would end up with many non-uniform bread doughs. This technique is +also used when making ciabattas. They are typically not shaped. You only cut the +bulk dough into smaller pieces, trying to work the dough as little as possible. +With preshaping you will converge your dough's alveoli into more of a honeycomb structure, +as large pockets of air will slightly converge. Similarly to the open crumb structure +you also have to nail the fermentation process perfectly to achieve this crumb. +A too long fermentation will result in gas leaking out of your dough while baking. +The honeycomb's won't be able to retain the gas. If you ferment for too short, +there is not enough gas to inflate the structures. To me this is the perfect +style of crumb. As someone who appreciates jam, no jam will fall through a slice +of this bread compared to an open crumb. + +\subsection{Overfermented} + +\begin{figure} + \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{fermented-too-long} + \caption{A relatively flat dough that has many tiny pockets of air.} + \label{fig:fermented-too-long} +\end{figure} + +When fermenting your dough for too long over time the protease enzyme starts to +break down the gluten of your flour. Furthermore the bacteria consumes the gluten +in a process called {\it proteolysis} \cite{raffaella+di+cagno}. +Bakers also refer to this process as {\it gluten rot}. +The gluten that normally is normally trapping the CO2 created +by the fermentation process of your microorganisms can no longer stay inside of +the dough. It disperses outward resulting in smaller alveoli in your crumb. +The bread itself tends to be very flat in the oven. Bakers often refer +to this style of bread as a {\it pancake}. The oven spring can be compared +to bread doughs made out of low gluten flour like Einkorn. + +Your bread will feature a lot of acidity, a really strong distinctive tang. From +a taste perspective it might be a little bit too sour. From my own tests with family and +friends (n=15-20) I can say that this style of bread is typically +not as appreciated. However, me personally I really like the hearty strong taste. +It is excellent in combination with something +sweet or a soup. From a consistency perspective it is no longer as fluffy as it could be. +The crumb might also taste a little bit gummy. That's because it has been broken down a lot +by the bacteria. Furthermore this style of bread has a significantly lower amount of gluten \cite{raffaella+di+cagno} +and is no longer comparable to raw flour, it's a fully fermented product. +You can compare it with a blue cheese that is almost lactose free. + +When trying to work with the dough you will notice that suddenly the dough feels +very sticky. You can no longer properly shape and work the dough. When trying to +remove the dough from a banneton the dough flattens out very much. Furthermore +in many cases your dough might stick to the banneton. When beginning with baking +I would use a lot of rice flour in my banneton to dry out the surface of the dough a lot. +This way the dough wouldn't stick, despite being over fermented. However as it +turns out the stickiness issue has been my lack of understanding the fermentation +process. Now I never use rice-flour, except when trying to apply decorative scorings. +Properly managing fermentation results in a dough that is not sticky. + +If you are noticing during a stretch and fold, or during shaping that your dough +is suddenly overly sticky, then the best option is to use a loaf pan. Simply take +your dough and toss it into a loaf pan. Wait until the dough mixture has increased +in size a bit again and then bake it. You will have a very well tasting sourdough +bread. If it's a bit too sour, you can just bake your dough for a longer period +of time to boil some of the acidity during the baking process. You can also use +your dough to setup a new starter and try again tomorrow. Lastly if you are hungry +you can simply pour some of your dough directly into a heated pan with a bit of +oil. You will be making delicious sourdough flat breads. + +To fix issues related to overfermentation you need to stop the fermentation process +earlier. What I like to do is to extract a small fermentation probe from my dough. +Depending on the volume increase of this probe I can mostly judge when my fermentation +is finished. Try to start with a 25 percent volume increase of your main dough or sample. +Depending on how much gluten your flour has, you can ferment for a longer period of time. +With a strong flour featuring a 14-15 percent protein you should be able to safely +ferment until a 100 percent size increase. This however also happens on your +sourdough starter's composition of yeast and bacteria. The more bacterial fermentation +the faster your dough structure breaks down. Frequent feedings of your sourdough +starter will improve the yeast activity. Furthermore a stiff sourdough starter +might be a good solution too. The enhanced yeast activity will result in a more fluffy +dough with less bacterial activity. A better yeast activity also will result +in less acidity in your final bread. If you are a chaser of a very strong tangy +flavor profile then a stronger flour with more gluten will help. + + +\subsection{Underfermented} + +\begin{figure} + \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{fermented-too-short-underbaked} + \caption{A dense dough featuring a gummy not fully gelatinized area. + The picture has been provided by Midori from our community discord server.} + \label{fig:fermented-too-short-underbaked} +\end{figure} + +This defect is also commonly referred to as {\it underproofed}. However underproofed +is not a good term as it only refers to having a too short period of time in the final +proofing stage of the bread making process. If you were to directly bake your bread +after a successful bulk fermentation stage you would not achieve this defect. +Proofing will make your dough a bit more extensible and allows your sourdough +to inflate the dough a bit more. When faced with an underfermented bread you +already did something wrong during the bulk fermentation stage, or maybe also +even before that with your sourdough starter. + +A typical underfermented dough has very large pockets of air and is partially +wet and gummy in some areas of the dough. The large pockets can be compared +to making a non-leavened wheat or corn tortilla. As you bake the dough in your pan +the water slowly starts to evaporate. The gas is trapped in the structure of the dough +and will create pockets. In case of a tortilla this is the desired behavior. +But when you observe this process in a larger dough you will create several +super alveoli. The water evaporates and the first alveoli form. Then at some point +the starch starts to gelatinize and becomes solid. This happens first inside of the pockets +as the interior heats up faster compared to the rest of the dough. Once all the starch +has gelatinized the alveoli holds its shape and no longer expands. During this +process other parts of the bread dough are pushed outwards. That's why an underfermented +dough sometimes even features an ear during the baking process. This +is also commonly referred to as a {\it fool's crumb}. You are excited about an ear which +can be quite hard to achieve. Plus you might think you finally created some big pockets +of air in your crumb. But in reality you fermented for a too short period +of time. + +\begin{figure} + \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{fools-crumb} + \caption{A typical example of a fool's crumb featuring an ear and several overly + large alveoli. The picture has been provided by Rochelle from our + community discord server.} + \label{fools-crumb} +\end{figure} + +In a properly fermented dough the alveoli help with the heat transfer throughout the dough. +From within the tiny many fermentation induced pockets the starch gelatinizes. With +an underfermented dough this heat transfer does not properly work. Because of that +you sometimes have areas which look like raw dough. Bakers refer to this as a very +gummy structure sometimes. Baking your dough for a longer period of time would also properly +gelatinize the starch in these areas. However, then other parts of your bread +might be baked too long. + +To fix issues related to underfermentation you simply have to ferment your dough +for a longer period of time. Now there is an upper limit to fermentation time +as your flour breaks down the moment it is in contact with water. That's why it +might be a good idea to simply speed up your fermentation process. As a rough +figure, I try to aim for a bulk fermentation time of around 8-12 hours typically. +To achieve that you can try to make your sourdough starter more active. This can be done +by feeding your starter daily over several days. Use the same ratio as you would +do for your main bread dough. Assuming you use 20 percent starter calculated on the flour, +use a 1:5:5 ratio to feed your starter. That would be 10 grams of existing starter, +50 grams of flour, 50 grams of water for instance. To boost your yeast even more you can +consider making a stiff sourdough starter. The stiff sourdough starter will +boost your yeast activity. The bacteria produces mostly acid. The more acidity +is piled up, the less active your yeast is. The stiff sourdough starter +enables you to start your dough's fermentation with yeast dominated activity. + + +\subsection{Not enough dough strength} + +\begin{figure} + \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{flat-bread} + \caption{A very flat bread without enough dough strength.} + \label{flat-bread} +\end{figure} + +When a dough flattens out quite a lot during the baking process chances are +that you did not create enough dough strength. This means your gluten matrix +hasn't been developed properly. Your dough is too extensible and flattens out +mostly rather than springing upwards in the oven. This can also happen if you +proofed your dough for too long. Over time the gluten relaxes and your dough +becomes more and more extensible. You can observe the gluten relaxing behavior +too when making a pizza pie. Directly after shaping your dough balls it's very hard to shape +the pizza pie. If you wait for 30-90 minutes stretching the dough becomes a lot easier. + +The easiest way to fix this is probably to knead your dough more at the start. To simplify +things consider using less water for your flour too. This will result in a more elastic dough +right away. This concept is commonly used for no-knead style sourdough. Alternatively you +can also perform more stretch and folds during the bulk fermentation process. Each +stretch and fold will help to strengthen the gluten matrix and make a more elastic dough. +The last option to fix a dough with too little dough strength is to shape your dough tighter. + +\subsection{Baked too hot} + +\begin{figure} + \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{baked-too-hot-v2} + \caption{A bread with very large alveoli close to the crust} + \label{baked-too-hot} +\end{figure} + +This is a common mistake that has happened to me a lot. When you bake your dough +at a too hot temperature you block your dough's expansion. The starch gelatinizes +and becomes more and more solid. At around 140°C (284°F) the maillard reaction +starts to completely thicken your bread dough's crust. This is similar to baking +your bread dough without steam. As the internal dough's temperature heats up +more and more water evaporates, gas expands and the dough is being pushed upwards. +Once the dough reaches the crust it can no longer expand. The alveoli merge +into larger structures close to the surface of the dough. By baking too hot +you are not achieving the ear which adds extra flavor. Furthermore your crumb +is not as fluffy as it could be by restricting its expansion capabilities. + +If you have an extensible dough with high hydration baking too cold will result +in the dough flattening out quite a lot. The gelatinization of the starch is +essential for the dough to hold it's structure. After conducting several +experiments it seems that my sweet spot for maximum oven spring seems to be +at around 230°C (446°F). Test the temperature of your oven, because in several +cases the displayed temperature might not match the actual temperature of your +oven \cite{too+hot+baking}. Make sure to turn off the fan of your oven. Most +home ovens are designed to vent the steam as fast as possible. If you can not +turn the fan off, consider using a dutch oven. + +\subsection{Baked with too little steam} + +\begin{figure}[h] + \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{no-steam} + \caption{One of my earlier breads that I baked at a friend's place where + I couldn't steam the dough properly} + \label{no-steam} +\end{figure} + +Similarly to baking too hot when baking without enough steam your dough's crust +forms too quickly. It's hard to spot the difference between the two mistakes. +I typically first ask about the temperature and then about the steaming technique +to determine what might be wrong with the baking process. Too little steam can +typically be spotted by having a thick crust around all around your dough paired +with large alveoli towards the edges. + +The steam essentially prevents the maillard reaction from happening too quickly +on your crust. That's why steaming during the first stages of the bake is so important. +The steam keeps the temperature of your crust close to around 100°C (212°F). Achieving steam +can be done by using a dutch oven, an inverted tray and or a bowl of boiling water. +You might also have an oven with a built-in steam functionality. All the methods work, +it depends on what you have at hand. My default go-to method is an inverted +tray on top of my dough, paired with a bowl full of boiling water towards the bottom +of the oven. + +\begin{figure} + \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{apple-experiment-temperatures} + \caption{An apple with 2 probes to measure ambient + and surface temperatures of several steaming techniques + in a dutch oven.} + \label{apple-experiment-temperatures} +\end{figure} + +Now there can also be too much steam. For this I tested using a dutch oven paired with large ice +cubes to provide additional steam. The temperature of my dough's surface would directly +jump close to 100°C. The steam contains more energy and can thus through convection +heat up the surface of your dough faster. I tested this by using an apple inside of +a dutch oven. Then I would use a barbecue thermometer with a probe directly at the surface. +I would then change the steaming methods to plot how quickly the temperature +close to the surface of the dough changes. I tried to use an ice cube inside of a preheated +dutch oven, a preheated dutch oven, a preheated dutch oven with spritzes +of water on the apple's surface, a non preheated dutch oven where I would only preheat +the bottom part. The experiment then showed that the ice-cube method would heat up +the surface of the apple a lot quicker. When replicating this with a bread dough +I would achieve less oven spring. + +\begin{figure}[h] + \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{apple-experiment-surface-temperatures} + \caption{A chart showing how the temperature of the surface + of the apple changes with different steaming techniques.} + \label{apple-experiment-surface-temperatures} +\end{figure} + +\begin{figure}[h] + \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{apple-experiment-ambient-temperatures} + \caption{This figure shows how the ambient temperatures inside of the + dutch oven change depending on the steaming technique that is used.} + \label{apple-experiment-ambient-temperatures} +\end{figure} + +Generally though achieving too much steam is relatively challenging. I could only +commit this mistake when using a dutch oven as steaming method paired with relatively +large ice cubes. After talking with other bakers using the same dutch oven, it seems +that mine (around 80g) were 4 times as heavy as the ones other bakers would use (20g) \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/book/troubleshooting/crumb-structures/cut-too-quickly.jpg b/book/troubleshooting/crumb-structures/cut-too-quickly.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b5ea755 Binary files /dev/null and b/book/troubleshooting/crumb-structures/cut-too-quickly.jpg differ diff --git a/book/troubleshooting/crumb-structures/fermented-too-long.JPG b/book/troubleshooting/crumb-structures/fermented-too-long.JPG new file mode 100644 index 0000000..026bcfe Binary files /dev/null and b/book/troubleshooting/crumb-structures/fermented-too-long.JPG differ diff --git a/book/troubleshooting/crumb-structures/fermented-too-short-underbaked.jpg b/book/troubleshooting/crumb-structures/fermented-too-short-underbaked.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6c52d30 Binary files /dev/null and b/book/troubleshooting/crumb-structures/fermented-too-short-underbaked.jpg differ diff --git a/book/troubleshooting/crumb-structures/flat-bread.jpeg b/book/troubleshooting/crumb-structures/flat-bread.jpeg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..f380427 Binary files /dev/null and b/book/troubleshooting/crumb-structures/flat-bread.jpeg differ diff --git a/book/troubleshooting/crumb-structures/fools-crumb.jpg b/book/troubleshooting/crumb-structures/fools-crumb.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..a6c127a Binary files /dev/null and b/book/troubleshooting/crumb-structures/fools-crumb.jpg differ diff --git a/book/troubleshooting/crumb-structures/honeycomb.jpg b/book/troubleshooting/crumb-structures/honeycomb.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..467b008 Binary files /dev/null and b/book/troubleshooting/crumb-structures/honeycomb.jpg differ diff --git a/book/troubleshooting/crumb-structures/no-steam.jpeg b/book/troubleshooting/crumb-structures/no-steam.jpeg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e5a9a37 Binary files /dev/null and b/book/troubleshooting/crumb-structures/no-steam.jpeg differ diff --git a/book/troubleshooting/crumb-structures/open-crumb.jpg b/book/troubleshooting/crumb-structures/open-crumb.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9e0c108 Binary files /dev/null and b/book/troubleshooting/crumb-structures/open-crumb.jpg differ