diff --git a/.gitignore b/.gitignore index f9b0677..bc6c57e 100644 --- a/.gitignore +++ b/.gitignore @@ -11,3 +11,4 @@ *.run.xml book/book.out .vscode/ +book/book.synctex* diff --git a/README.md b/README.md index 15c7574..47afb23 100644 --- a/README.md +++ b/README.md @@ -9,7 +9,7 @@ is different. This makes making sourdough bread at home so hard. Say no more, this book will help you to master making bread in your environment. -![Cover image](cover.jpg) +![A whole wheat sourdough bread](./book/images/whole-wheat-crumb.jpg) ## Motivation @@ -25,6 +25,8 @@ That's why I decided to open source my knowledge hoping that it will reach more people all over the world without budget constrains. +![The book cover](cover.jpg) + ## Status The book is a work in progress. This represents the current status: @@ -36,7 +38,7 @@ The book is a work in progress. This represents the current status: * ✅ Sourdough starter types * ✅ Flour types * ✅ Bread types -* ❌ Wheat sourdough +* ✅ Wheat sourdough * ❌ Non wheat sourdough * ✅ Baking * ❌ Storing bread diff --git a/book/baking/baking.tex b/book/baking/baking.tex index 2c6c2ee..229feac 100644 --- a/book/baking/baking.tex +++ b/book/baking/baking.tex @@ -2,6 +2,35 @@ Baking refers to the part of the process where you are loading your dough into the oven. This is typically done after your dough has gone through the bulk fermentation and proofing stage. + +\begin{figure}[!htb] + \begin{tikzpicture}[node distance = 3cm, auto] + \node [block] (heat_oven) {\footnotesize Heat oven to 230°C (446°F) for 30 minutes}; + \node [block, right of=heat_oven, node distance=3cm] (score_dough) {\footnotesize Score your dough}; + \node [decision, right of=score_dough, node distance=4cm] (decide_steam) {\footnotesize Choose your steaming method}; + \node [block, below of=heat_oven, node distance=4cm] (inverted_tray_method) {\footnotesize Inverted tray method}; + \node [block, right of=inverted_tray_method, node distance=3cm] (dutch_oven) {\footnotesize Dutch oven}; + \node [block, right of=dutch_oven, node distance=3cm] (steam_injection) {\footnotesize Steam injection oven}; + \node [block, below of=inverted_tray_method, node distance=3cm] (bake_30) {\footnotesize Bake dough for 30 minutes with steam}; + \node [block, right of=bake_30, node distance=3cm] (remove_steam) {\footnotesize Remove source of steam}; + \node [block, right of=remove_steam, node distance=3cm] (build_crust) {\footnotesize Build the crust}; + \node [block, right of=build_crust, node distance=3cm] (finish_baking) {\footnotesize Stop baking 10-30 minutes later depending on crust preference}; + \path [line] (heat_oven) -- (score_dough); + \path [line] (score_dough) -- (decide_steam); + \path [line] (decide_steam) -- (inverted_tray_method); + \path [line] (decide_steam) -- (dutch_oven); + \path [line] (decide_steam) -- (steam_injection); + \path [line] (steam_injection) -- (bake_30); + \path [line] (inverted_tray_method) -- (bake_30); + \path [line] (dutch_oven) -- (bake_30); + \path [line] (bake_30) -- (remove_steam); + \path [line] (remove_steam) -- (build_crust); + \path [line] (build_crust) -- (finish_baking); + \end{tikzpicture} + \caption{A schematic visualization of the baking process using different sources of steam in a home oven.} + \label{fig:baking-process} +\end{figure} + Some other breads like flat breads could also be baked on the stove. This chapter is focusing on the home oven though. diff --git a/book/wheat-sourdough/2-mix-ingredients.jpg b/book/wheat-sourdough/2-mix-ingredients.jpg deleted file mode 100644 index 2e4e8a6..0000000 Binary files a/book/wheat-sourdough/2-mix-ingredients.jpg and /dev/null differ diff --git a/book/wheat-sourdough/3-create-dough-strength.jpg b/book/wheat-sourdough/3-create-dough-strength.jpg deleted file mode 100644 index f676934..0000000 Binary files a/book/wheat-sourdough/3-create-dough-strength.jpg and /dev/null differ diff --git a/book/wheat-sourdough/4-bulk-fermentation.jpg b/book/wheat-sourdough/4-bulk-fermentation.jpg deleted file mode 100644 index a18cff8..0000000 Binary files a/book/wheat-sourdough/4-bulk-fermentation.jpg and /dev/null differ diff --git a/book/wheat-sourdough/5-preshaping.jpg b/book/wheat-sourdough/5-preshaping.jpg deleted file mode 100644 index 1f9a8bd..0000000 Binary files a/book/wheat-sourdough/5-preshaping.jpg and /dev/null differ diff --git a/book/wheat-sourdough/6-shaping.jpg b/book/wheat-sourdough/6-shaping.jpg deleted file mode 100644 index 320adbc..0000000 Binary files a/book/wheat-sourdough/6-shaping.jpg and /dev/null differ diff --git a/book/wheat-sourdough/7-proofing.jpg b/book/wheat-sourdough/7-proofing.jpg deleted file mode 100644 index 8877881..0000000 Binary files a/book/wheat-sourdough/7-proofing.jpg and /dev/null differ diff --git a/book/wheat-sourdough/8-baking.jpg b/book/wheat-sourdough/8-baking.jpg deleted file mode 100644 index 2c8596f..0000000 Binary files a/book/wheat-sourdough/8-baking.jpg and /dev/null differ diff --git a/book/wheat-sourdough/artistic-scoring.jpg b/book/wheat-sourdough/artistic-scoring.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..13979e4 Binary files /dev/null and b/book/wheat-sourdough/artistic-scoring.jpg differ diff --git a/book/wheat-sourdough/bread-scoring-angle.jpg b/book/wheat-sourdough/bread-scoring-angle.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..cad8a4a Binary files /dev/null and b/book/wheat-sourdough/bread-scoring-angle.jpg differ diff --git a/book/wheat-sourdough/dry-dough-surface.jpg b/book/wheat-sourdough/dry-dough-surface.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d8373f9 Binary files /dev/null and b/book/wheat-sourdough/dry-dough-surface.jpg differ diff --git a/book/wheat-sourdough/shaping/step-13-finger-poke-test.jpg b/book/wheat-sourdough/shaping/step-13-finger-poke-test.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..24a502d Binary files /dev/null and b/book/wheat-sourdough/shaping/step-13-finger-poke-test.jpg differ diff --git a/book/wheat-sourdough/the-ear.jpg b/book/wheat-sourdough/the-ear.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..890d0cf Binary files /dev/null and b/book/wheat-sourdough/the-ear.jpg differ diff --git a/book/wheat-sourdough/wheat-sourdough.tex b/book/wheat-sourdough/wheat-sourdough.tex index 145b0b6..bbf02cf 100644 --- a/book/wheat-sourdough/wheat-sourdough.tex +++ b/book/wheat-sourdough/wheat-sourdough.tex @@ -1504,9 +1504,270 @@ not notice that this improves the dough's strength. As far as I can tell this only improves the visual appearance of the bottom side of the final loaf.} If you did everything right then your dough should look somewhat similar to the dough shown in figure \ref{fig:shaping-prepare-proofing}. +As the last step of shaping place a kitchen towel over your banneton +or bowl and begin proofing. \section{Proofing} -This chapter is still pending and will be added soon. + +In bread baking, proofing refers to the final rise of dough before baking, +after it has been shaped into a loaf. The chemical reactions and processes +that occur during bulk fermentation and proofing are the same. + +By shaping your dough it has lost some of the air previously generated +throughout the bulk fermentation. The goal of proofing is to inflate +the dough again. A dough without proofing wouldn't offer the same texture +as a properly proofed dough. The proofed dough features a very fluffy +and soft crumb. + +There are two proofing techniques. One strategy is to proof the dough +at room temperature whereas the other proofs the dough in the fridge. +Fridge-proofing is also commonly known as retarding. + +Some bakers claim that cold proofing improves the final flavor of the bread. +In all the loaves that I retarded I could not notice a difference +in terms of flavor for cold-proofed doughs. The microorganisms work +at a slower rate at colder temperatures. But I doubt that they alter +their biochemical processes. More research is needed on the topic +of retarding and flavor development. + + +\begin{figure}[!htb] + \begin{tikzpicture}[node distance = 3cm, auto] + \node [decision] (init) {\footnotesize Room temperature proofing?}; + \node [decision, right of=init, node distance=9cm] (retard_bake_decision) {\footnotesize Bake in less than 10 hours from now?}; + \node [block, below of=init, node distance=4cm] (poke) {\footnotesize Poke the dough}; + \node [block, right of=poke, node distance=4cm] (wait_poke) {\footnotesize Wait 15 minutes}; + \node [decision, below of=poke, node distance=3cm] (dent_visible_decision) {\footnotesize Dent still visible after 1 minute?}; + \node [block, right of=dent_visible_decision, node distance=4cm] (bake) {\footnotesize Score and bake}; + \node [block, below of=retard_bake_decision, node distance=3cm] (wait_retard) {\footnotesize Wait 15 minutes}; + \node [block, below of=wait_retard, node distance=3cm] (retard) {\footnotesize Proof in fridge at 4°C (40°F)}; + \node [block, right of=wait_retard, node distance=3cm] (move_to_fridge) {\footnotesize Move dough directly to fridge}; + \path [line] (init) -- node{yes} (poke); + \path [line] (init) -- node{no} (retard_bake_decision); + \path [line] (poke) -- (dent_visible_decision); + \path [line] (dent_visible_decision) -- node{yes} (bake); + \path [line] (dent_visible_decision) -- node{no} (wait_poke); + \path [line] (wait_poke) -- (poke); + \path [line] (retard_bake_decision) -- node{yes} (wait_retard); + \path [line] (retard_bake_decision) -- node{no} (move_to_fridge); + \path [line] (wait_retard) -- (retard); + \path [line] (move_to_fridge) -- (retard); + \path [line] (retard) -- (bake); + \end{tikzpicture} + \caption{A schematic overview of the different steps of the sourdough proofing process. The proofing technique to choose + depends on your availability and schedule.} + \label{fig:proofing-process} +\end{figure} + +To me, the sole purpose of cold proofing is its ability to allow you +to better manage the timing of the whole process. Assuming you finished shaping +your dough at 10 pm, chances are you wouldn't want to wait for another +2 hours to proof the dough and then another 1 hour to bake it. In this case, +you can move your dough directly to the fridge after shaping. Your +dough will be proofing overnight in the fridge. Then it can be baked at any time +the following day (there are a few exceptions, more on that a little bit later). +This is especially handy for large-scale bakeries that use fridge-proofing +extensively. Some of the doughs are proofed a day before and placed in the fridge. +Early in the morning, they can be baked directly out of the fridge. Within 2 +hours they will be ready to sell the first bread to morning customers. If +throughout the day more bread is needed simply take some proofed dough out +of the fridge and bake it. The time frame in which you can bake retarded +dough is big. It can be 6 hours later up to 24 hours later. + +Assuming you made an overnight dough and your dough is ready in the morning, +the situation might be different. You potentially want to bake the dough directly +for breakfast, or at lunchtime. In this case, you wouldn't want to proof the dough for +another 6 hours in the fridge. Room temperature proofing is your technique +of choice. + +To summarize, choose the technique that works for you depending on your +schedule and availability. + +\subsection{Room temperature proofing} + +The easiest and most reliable way to proof your dough is to proof the dough at +room temperature. It is my method of choice if my schedule allows it. This method +works great if you make an overnight dough and then proof in the next +morning. + +\begin{figure}[htb!] + \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{step-13-finger-poke-test} + \caption{The finger poke test is a very reliable method to check + if your dough has been properly proofed. If the induced dent is still + visible 1 minute later your dough can be baked.} + \label{fig:shaping-finger-poke} +\end{figure} + +The time it takes to proof your dough can be anything between 30 minutes and +3 hours. Rather than relying on timing most bakers use the finger poke test. + +Flour your thumb and gently press around 0.5cm up to 1cm deep into the dough. +Try this directly after shaping. You will notice that the created dent will +recover quickly. It will be gone again after 1 minute. + +As you proceed with proofing your dough will fill up with more gas. At the +same time, the dough will become more extensible. Once it starts to reach the +right amount of fluffiness and extensibility the dent will disappear more slowly. +Once the dough is for scoring and baking the dent should still be visible after +1 minute of waiting. + +I recommend performing the finger poke test once every 15 minutes throughout +the proofing stage. Realistically based on my experience proofing takes at least +one hour and can sometimes take up to 3 hours. Even at warmer temperatures proofing +has never been faster than an hour for me. As always please take my timings with +a grain of salt and experiment on your own. + +Once I see that the dough is getting close to perfect proofing I proceed and +preheat my oven. This way I don't overproof the dough. You would notice an +over-proofed dough when the dough suddenly becomes very sticky. At the same +time, the dough is likely to collapse during baking and will not spring back. +Generally, it is better to end proofing earlier rather than too late. + +\subsection{Cold proofing (retarding)} + +The second proofing option is to place your dough inside the fridge for +proofing. This option is great if you do not want to bake the dough +within the next 3 hours. + +The dough will initially proof at the same rate as the room temperature dough. +As the dough cools down the rate of fermentation slows. Ultimately at below +4°C (40°F) the fermentation comes to a halt. \footnote{The actual temperature +depends on the bacteria and yeast you cultivated in your sourdough +starter.} The dough can rest in the fridge for up to 24 hours. In some +experiments, the dough was still good even 48 hours later. Interestingly +there is a limit to fridge proofing. I can only explain this with continuous +fermentation activity at low temperatures. + +The hard part is to judge when the dough is finished proofing in your fridge. +The previously mentioned finger poke test does not work on cold dough. Low +temperatures change the dough's elasticity. The dent from the poke test +will never recover. + +For this reason, finding the best fridge-proofing time is best done +with an iterative approach. Begin with 8 hours on your first dough, +10 hours on the second, 12 hours on the third, and so on up to 24 hours. +As the temperature in your fridge is typically constant you have an +environment in which you can rely on timings. Find the ideal proofing +time that works for you. + +One additional consideration is the dough's core temperature before +placing it inside the fridge. The warmer your dough is initially +the longer it takes for the dough to cool down. This is an additional +variable to take into consideration when choosing the retarding time. +In summer times when my kitchen is hot I choose a shorter fridge-proofing +time compared to winter times when the dough is colder. + +A reliable way to ensure consistent proofing is to opt for using a pH +meter. By checking the amount of piled-up acidity you can ensure +each of your doughs has the right amount of acidity. Opt for an iterative +approach and check the pH for multiple proofing times. Find the pH +the value that creates the best bread for you. Once you have identified +your perfect pH level you can resort to that value on all following +doughs. See table \ref{table:sample-ph-values} for some sample pH values +to follow. \section{Scoring} -This chapter is still pending and will be added soon. + +Once your dough is done proofing it's time to warm up your oven +to around 230°C (446°F). The next step is then to proceed with +scoring your dough. + +Scoring is done for two reasons. There is functional and decorative +scoring. Functional scoring refers to making a small incision in the dough +through which it rises while baking. If the dough wouldn't be scored +it would likely crack open at the weakest spots where you sealed +the dough after shaping. Decorative scoring can be used to apply +artistic patterns to your dough and make it more appealing. When +you want to apply artistic scoring it is best to rub your dough +with additional rice flour before scoring. The white rice flour +greatly boosts the contrast of the scoring incisions and thus +makes the final pattern look more visually appealing. + +\begin{figure}[htb!] + \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{the-ear} + \caption{The ear is a characteristic that can be achieved on wheat sourdough + when fermenting and scoring your dough with the perfect technique. It offers additional + flavor and great texture when eating the bread.} + \label{fig:the-ear} +\end{figure} + +When using a banneton the dough is flipped over and +placed on an oven rack, tray, stone, steel, or dutch oven. The pros +and cons of the different baking options are covered in the next chapter. +The dough's top side which was previously at the bottom of the +banneton should now be facing you. + +\begin{figure}[htb!] + \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{artistic-scoring} + \caption{A loaf by Nancy Anne featuring an artistic scoring pattern. + The high contrast was achieved by rubbing the + dough's surface with rice flour before baking. Her Instagram + account "simply.beautiful.sourdough" is specialized to showcase + beautiful artistic scoring patterns.} + \label{fig:artistic-scoring} +\end{figure} + +The scoring cut for done at a 45° angle relative to the dough's +surface slightly off the dough's center. With the 45° angle cut +the overlaying side will rise more in the oven than the other side. +This way you will achieve a so-called "ear" on the final bread. +The ear is a thin crisp edge that offers intriguing texture +when eating. The thin edge is typically a bit darker after baking +and thus offers additional flavor. In my opinion, the ear is turning +a good loaf into a great loaf. + +\begin{figure}[htb!] + \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{bread-scoring-angle} + \caption{The 45° angle at which you score the dough is relative to the surface of the dough. + When scoring more towards the side you have to adjust the angle to get achieve the ear on your + bread.} + \label{fig:scoring-angle} +\end{figure} + +The actual incision is done with a very sharp knife or better a razor +blade. You can use the razor blade directly or attach it to a chopstick. +The razor blade offers better flexibility than the sharp knife. +Regardless the blade should be as sharp as possible. This way when cutting +the dough is not torn and instead features a clean non rugged incision. + +To simplify scoring your dough's surface must be dried out a little bit. +This way it is a lot easier to make the incision. +For this reason, it is crucial to rub your dough with a bit of flour +before placing it in the banneton. The dry flour will absorb some of the +moisture of the outer layers of your dough. This is especially important +when working with room temperature-proofed doughs. A cold-proofed dough +is a lot easier to score due to the dough's low viscosity. The room-temperature +dough is a lot harder to score. The scoring incision tears a lot +easier. With a rugged incision, the dough is not as likely to properly +rise in the oven. Chances are you will not achieve the previously mentioned +ear. For this reason, drying out the surface is especially important. Scoring +will become a lot easier. + +\begin{figure}[htb!] + \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{dry-dough-surface} + \caption{By applying flour to your dough's surface after shaping the outer part + of the dough dries out a little bit. This makes scoring a lot easier as the incision + is less likely to tear.} + \label{fig:dried-out-dough-scoring} +\end{figure} + + +Scoring requires a lot of practice. For this reason, I recommend +practicing making the incision after creating dough strength. The dough +is going to be very wet and sticky. You can use a sharp knife or razor +blade to practice the technique. Wait a few minutes and then round +up the dough again. You can practice this for as long as you like +until you are happy with your technique. After proofing, you only +have a single chance to practice scoring. It's either hit or miss. + +An additional trick that can help you to combine the benefits +of room temperature proofing and easy cold proofing scoring +is to place your dough in the freezer for 30 minutes before baking. +Once you notice your dough is almost done proofing move it to the +freezer. The freezer will dry out the surface even further and make +scoring easier. + +Another interesting trick is to bake your dough for 30 seconds without steam. +The hot air will dry out the dough's surface even further and simplify +the scoring technique. Experiment with the timing to identify your personal +sweet spot. \ No newline at end of file