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Wheat Sourdough - dough strength (#29)
* tmp commit * Spelling mistakes fix * Fix display * Improve text * Add kneading flowchart * Improve sentence. Thanks Any_Key * Improve chart based on feedback, add references * Cleanup + add references * use tikzpicture for charts * Replace image with chart * Add image and table * Add dough development charts * Update readme
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@@ -48,7 +48,7 @@ The book is a work in progress. This represents the current status:
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Make sure you have `biber` installed. Refer to your system's installation
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instructions. Also make sure you have `pdflatex` installed.
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```bash```
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```console
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cd book/
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make
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```
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@@ -1,13 +1,23 @@
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This book would not have been possible without the help of the community.
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Because of the donations received, I have been able to take time off from
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my job and from YouTube to write it. By providing this information free
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of charge, we can help more people around the world bake delicious sourdough
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bread at home. Thank you very much!\\
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This book would not have been possible without your help.
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With all your donations I have been able to take time off from my job and
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focus on this project.
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Furthermore many of you have contributed and improved the
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instructions, fixed spelling mistakes and/or provided
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feedback on the content. Each of you has made this book
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better.
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By providing this book free of charge,
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we can enable more people around the world to bake delicious sourdough
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bread at home.
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Thank you very much for your support!\\
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\begin{filecontents}{supporters.csv}
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\end{filecontents}
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{\large All supporters, sorted by name:}
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{\large Big shout-out to all the initial supporters:}
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\pgfplotstableset{
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begin table=\begin{longtable},
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@@ -33,8 +33,8 @@ Some years passed, and I eventually began my studies in the small German city of
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For the first time, I was faced with shopping for my own bread. It was never
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on my mind to actually start baking it for myself. I would just buy
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a good loaf while shopping at the supermarket. My favorite variety
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was a Schwarzbrot, Korn an Korn. It's a very dark and hearty rye bread,
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consisting of many rye berries and sunflower seeds. Being a little naive,
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was a Schwarzbrot, Korn an Korn. It’s a very dark and hearty rye bread
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with added berries and sunflower seeds. Being a little naive,
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I'd never before examined the packaging of what I was buying. One day, that
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changed.
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@@ -274,3 +274,28 @@
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journal = {Food chemistry},
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volume = {15,31}
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}
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@article{how+does+gluten+work,
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title = {Gluten: How Does It Work?},
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author = {Modernist Cuisine},
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howpublished = {\url{https://modernistcuisine.com/mc/gluten-how-does-it-work/}},
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year = {2018},
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note = {Accessed: 2022-12-22}
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}
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@article{bassinage+technique,
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title = {The Bassinage Method},
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author = {The Sourdough School},
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howpublished = {\url{https://www.sourdough.co.uk/glossary/bassinage/}},
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year = {2022},
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note = {Accessed: 2022-12-22}
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}
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@article{oxidization+dough,
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title = {Enzymes and pH matter, troubleshoot my loaf},
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author = {Bread Blog},
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howpublished = {\url{https://bread.blog/enzymes-and-ph-matter-troubleshoot-my-loaf/}},
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year = {2022},
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note = {Accessed: 2022-12-28}
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}
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@@ -3,7 +3,9 @@ free-standing wheat sourdough bread.
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\begin{figure}[!htb]
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\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{loaf-pan-free-standing.jpg}
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\caption{A free-standing sourdough bread made with wheat flour}
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\caption{A free-standing sourdough bread next to a bread made in a loaf pan.
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The free-standing sourdough is considered the supreme discipline of sourdough bread by many bakers.
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}
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\end{figure}
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A free-standing sourdough bread is my favorite
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@@ -35,14 +37,36 @@ you will know how to scale your production from 1 bread to 100 loaves of bread.
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If you ever wanted to open up a bakery, consider this knowledge to
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be your foundation.
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Mastering this process will enable you to bake amazing bread without
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ever buying yeast again.
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Mastering this process will enable you to make amazing bread
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that tastes much better than any store bought bread.
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\section{The process}
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\begin{figure}[!htb]
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\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{sourdough-process-overview.jpg}
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\caption{An overview of the whole sourdough process from start to finish}
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\begin{tikzpicture}[node distance = 3cm, auto]
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\node [block] (init) {\footnotesize Ready starter};
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\node [block, right of=init, node distance=3cm] (mix_ingredients) {\footnotesize Mix ingredients};
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\node [block, right of=mix_ingredients, node distance=3cm] (dough_strength) {\footnotesize Create dough strength};
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\node [block, right of=dough_strength, node distance=3cm] (bulk) {\footnotesize Bulk ferment};
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\node [decision, below of=dough_strength, node distance=3cm] (divide_test) {\footnotesize Making 1 loaf?};
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\node [block, left of=divide_test, node distance=3cm] (divide) {\footnotesize Divide};
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\node [block, left of=divide, node distance=3cm] (preshape) {\footnotesize Preshape};
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\node [block, below of=preshape, node distance=3cm] (shape) {\footnotesize Shape};
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\node [block, right of=shape, node distance=3cm] (proof) {\footnotesize Proof};
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\node [block, right of=proof, node distance=3cm] (bake) {\footnotesize Bake};
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\path [line] (init) -- (mix_ingredients);
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\path [line] (mix_ingredients) -- (dough_strength);
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\path [line] (dough_strength) -- (bulk);
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\path [line] (bulk) -- (divide_test);
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\path [line] (divide_test) -- node{yes} (shape);
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\path [line] (divide_test) -- node{no} (divide);
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\path [line] (divide) -- (preshape);
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\path [line] (preshape) -- (shape);
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\path [line] (shape) -- (proof);
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\path [line] (proof) -- (bake);
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\end{tikzpicture}
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\caption{The typical process of making a wheat based sourdough bread}
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\label{fig:wheat-sourdough-process}
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\end{figure}
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The whole process of making great sourdough bread starts with
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@@ -90,11 +114,39 @@ properties are passed on to your main dough. If your starter
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doesn't have a good balance of yeast to bacteria, so will your
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main dough.
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\begin{figure}[!p]
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\centering
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\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{1-ready-starter}
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\caption[Readying a starter]{A flowchart showing how you can prepare your starter before baking.
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This assumes you are using a stiff starter.}
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\begin{figure}[!htb]
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\begin{tikzpicture}[node distance = 3cm, auto]
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\node [decision] (init) {\footnotesize Starter last fed within 3 days?};
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\node [block, right of=init, node distance=4cm] (feed_no_branch)
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{\footnotesize Feed starter twice. 48 hours before and 6-12 hours before};
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\node [block, below of=feed_no_branch, node distance=3cm] (feed_yes_branch)
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{\footnotesize Feed starter once 6-12 hours before making dough};
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\node [block, right of=feed_no_branch, node distance=6cm] (high_ratio)
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{\footnotesize Use a 1:10:5 ratio. 10g starter, 100g flour, 50g water};
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\node [block, right of=feed_yes_branch, node distance=3cm] (low_ratio)
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{\footnotesize Use a 1:5:2.5 ratio. 10g starter, 50g flour, 25g water};
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\node [block, below of=high_ratio, node distance=6cm] (check_starter)
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{\footnotesize Check if starter is ready to be used};
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\node [decision, below of=init, node distance=6cm] (size_check)
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{\footnotesize Bubbly? Increased in size?};
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\node [decision, below of=size_check, node distance=5cm] (smell_check)
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{\footnotesize Vinegary or yogurty smell?};
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\node [block, right of=smell_check, node distance=6cm] (make_dough)
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{\footnotesize Prepare dough};
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\path [line] (init) -- node{no} (feed_no_branch);
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\path [line] (init) -- node{yes} (feed_yes_branch);
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\path [line] (feed_yes_branch) -- (low_ratio);
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\path [line] (feed_no_branch) -- (high_ratio);
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\path [line] (high_ratio) -- (check_starter);
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\path [line] (low_ratio) -- (check_starter);
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\path [line] (check_starter) -- (size_check);
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\path [line] (size_check) -- node{no} (feed_yes_branch);
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\path [line] (size_check) -- node{yes} (smell_check);
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\path [line] (smell_check) -- node{no} (feed_yes_branch);
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\path [line] (smell_check) -- node{yes} (make_dough);
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\end{tikzpicture}
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\caption{The process to ready and check your sourdough starter when making a wheat based dough}
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\label{fig:process-starter-wheat-sourdough}
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\end{figure}
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Generally, think of the dough you are mixing as a big starter with salt.
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@@ -135,7 +187,7 @@ trick too to make starter feeding work with your schedule.
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If your starter is typically ready in 6 hours but today you need it
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ready later, simply increase how much flour/water you feed your starter.
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These are all values that you need to experiment with on your own.
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Every starter is unique and might behave slightly differently.
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Every starter is unique and might behave slightly different.
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The second option at your disposal is the starter quantity that
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you use to make the dough. As previously stated your starter
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@@ -170,27 +222,501 @@ Over time you will become more accustomed to your starter
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and how it behaves. You will be able to read the signs of its
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activity and judge its state.
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\section{Ingredients}
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This chapter is still pending and will be added soon.
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All you need to make a great sourdough bread is flour water and salt. You
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can of course add additional things to your dough such as seeds. I personally
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enjoy the hearty taste of whole wheat. Thus I like to add around 20-30 percent
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of whole wheat flour to the mix. You could also make this recipe with 100 percent
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whole wheat flour directly. In this case look out for a strong whole wheat
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flour that is made from flour with higher protein. If you don't like whole
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wheat you can omit the flour from the recipe. Simply replace the listed
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quantity with bread flour. One thing to consider about whole wheat
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flour is the increased enzymatic activity. By adding some whole wheat
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flour you will speed up the whole fermentation process.
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Especially when getting started I recommend to use a bread flour which
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contains more gluten than all purpose or cake flour. This is essential
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when trying to bake a free standing loaf with sourdough.
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Find below an example recipe for 1 loaf including baker's math calculation:
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\begin{itemize}
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\item 400g of bread flour
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\item 100g of whole wheat flour
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\item \textbf{500g of flour in total}
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\item 300g-450g of room temperature water (60 percent up to 90 percent). More on
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this topic in the next chapter.
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\item 50g of stiff sourdough starter (10 percent)
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\item 10g of salt (2 percent)
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\end{itemize}
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In case you want to make more bread simply increase the quantities based on
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how much flour you have. Let's say you have 2000g of flour available. The
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recipe would look like this.
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\begin{itemize}
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\item 1800g of bread flour
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\item 200g of whole wheat flour
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\item \textbf{2000g of flour, equalling 4 loaves}
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\item 1200g up to 1800g of room temperature water (60 to 90 percent)
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\item 200g of stiff sourdough starter (10 percent)
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\item 40g of salt (2 percent)
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\end{itemize}
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This is the beauty of baker's math. Simply recalculate the percentages and you
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are good to go. If you are unsure about how this works please check out the
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full chapter \ref{section:bakers-math} which looks at the topic in detail.
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\section{Hydration}
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This chapter is still pending and will be added soon.
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Hydration refers to how much water you use for your flour. When
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beginning to make bread I always got this wrong. I followed a recipe from the
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internet and my dough never looked like a dough shown in the recipe.
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The amount of water your flour requires is not fixed. It depends on the flour
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you have.
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When a seed gets into contact initially the outer layers soak up the water.
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That's why when using whole wheat (still containing these layers) you have to
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use a little bit more water.
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By forming gluten strands water is absorbed into your dough. The higher the
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protein value the more water can be used.
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Some bakers like to use a highly hydrated dough to create a fluffier dough.
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\footnote{Sometimes it almost feels like a comparison of skill value between bakers. The
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more water they can handle, the more skillful the baker.} The reason for this
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is the dough's improved extensibility. The wetter the dough the easier it is
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for the dough to be stretched. When you pull it, the dough will hold its
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shape. In comparison a very stiff (low hydration) dough will maintain its
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shape for a longer period of time. To visualize this think of your extensible
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dough as a balloon. The stiff dough is a car tire. The yeast has a much harder
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time to inflate the care tire compared to the balloon. That's because the
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rubber of the car tire is much more elastic. It requires much more force to
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inflate the tire. For this reason an extensible dough will inflate more in the
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oven. The loaf will be visually bigger and offer an airier more open crumb structure.
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While this might sound great, the high hydration causes several side effects.
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\begin{enumerate}
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\item Your dough becomes more difficult to handle. Your dough will be stickier
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\item Your dough has to be kneaded for longer in order to build a proper gluten
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network.
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\item During the fermentation your dough might become too extensible and lose
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some of the dough strength. To circumvent this stretch and folds are applied
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compared to a regular dough.
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requiring you to invest a lot more work.
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\item Shaping becomes much more of a hassle as the dough is very sticky.
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\item The dough can stick to the banneton a lot easier while proofing.
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\item If you wait too long during proofing the dough won't have enough strength
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left to pull upwards and stay flat.
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\item Generally the higher the water content the more bacterial fermentation you
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have. Thus a wetter dough will reduce in gluten faster than a stiffer dough.
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This is why you have to start the fermentation with a sourdough starter in
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perfect shape. Bakers use a process called autolyse to shorten the main
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fermentation time to circumvent this.
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\item The crumb in the end might be perceived as somewhat sticky. It still
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contains a lot of water. Personally I love this crumb, but this is a personal
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choice.
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\end{enumerate}
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To achieve a high hydration dough it is best to slowly add the water to
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your dough. Start with 60 percent hydration, then slowly add a bit more water. Knead
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again until the water is absorbed. Repeat and add more water. As your dough
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has already formed a gluten network, new water can be absorbed much easier.
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You will be surprised by how much water your dough can soak up. This
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method is commonly known as the bassinage method. More on that later.
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By opting for this technique I was easily able to push a low
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gluten flour to a hydration of 80 percent. This
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is also my method of choice when making a dough now. I keep adding water until
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I can feel that the dough has the right consistency. As you bake more bread
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you will develop a better look and feel for your dough. When mixing
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by hand this can be quite cumbersome. It is a lot more easy when using a stand
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mixer.
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All in all increasing the hydration requires a lot of trial and error. There
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is however one option that makes things easier and causes less headache:
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Slow fermentation. You get the same extensibility advantages the high hydration
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offers by simply letting your dough ferment for a longer period of time.
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Slowing the fermentation process is easy. Use less
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sourdough starter or ferment in a cooler environment.
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There are two reasons for slow fermentation advantages.
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As explained earlier both the protease enzyme and bacteria break down your
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gluten network. So as fermentation progresses your dough will automatically
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become more extensible. This is because the rubber layers of your care tire
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are slowly converted and eaten. Ultimately your car tire turns into a balloon
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that can very easily be inflated. When waiting too long the
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balloon will burst. You will have no gluten left anymore and your dough
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becomes very sticky. Finding the sweet spot of enough rubber eating and not
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too much is what the perfect wheat sourdough bread bread is about. But don't worry, after reading
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||||
this chapter you will have the right tools at your disposal.
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The advantages of slow fermentation can be nicely observed when experimenting
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with a fast fermenting yeast dough (1 percent dry yeast based on the flour). The
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crumb of such a dough is never as
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open as a dough made with sourdough. Furthermore the protease enzyme
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can not do its job within such a short fermentation period.
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Large industrial bakeries add active malt which contains a
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lot more enzymes. This way the time required to make a dough is shortened. You
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will most likely find malt as an ingredient in supermarket bread. It is a
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great hack. The baked turbo fermentation bread will feature a relatively dense
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and not fluffy crumb. That is because only very little gluten is broken down when
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finishing the fermentation period in 1 hour. If you were to slow down things
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the dough would look completely different.
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Try this again and use way less yeast. This is the
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secret of the Neapolitan Pizza. Only a tiny bit of yeast is used to make the
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dough. In fact my default pizza recipe calls for around 150 milligrams of dry
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yeast per one kilogram of flour. Give it a shot yourself the next time you
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make a yeast based dough. Try to push the fermentation to at least 8 hours.
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The difference is incredible. You will have made a bread with a much more
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fluffy and open crumb. The flavor of the dough is drastically improved. Your
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crust becomes crisper and features a better taste. This is because amylases have
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converted your starches into simpler sugars which brown better during baking.
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If you take away one learning from this book, it is that slow fermentation is
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the key to making great bread.
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For this reason my default hydration is much lower than the hydration of other
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bakers. I prefer a slower fermentation for my recipes.
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The sweet spot for my default flour is at around 70 percent hydration.
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Again this is a highly subjective value that works for my flour.
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If you are just getting started with a new batch of flour
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I recommend to conduct the following test. This will help you to
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||||
identify the sweet spot of your flour's hydration capabilities.
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Make 5 bowls with each 100g of flour. Add different slightly increasing
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||||
water amounts to each of the bowls.
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||||
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\begin{itemize}
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\item 100g of flour, 55g of water
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\item 100g of flour, 60g of water
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\item 100g of flour, 65g of water
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\item 100g of flour, 70g of water
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\item 100g of flour, 75g of water
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\end{itemize}
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Proceed and mix the flour and water mixture until you see that there
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are no chunks of flour left. Wait 15 minutes and return to your doughs.
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Carefully pull the dough apart with your hands. Your dough should be elastic
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and hold together. Stretch your dough until very thin. Then hold it against a light.
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You should be able to see through it. The flour water mixture that breaks without
|
||||
seeing the windowpane is your no-go zone. Opt for a dough with
|
||||
less hydration than this value. You will know that your flour mix can go up to
|
||||
65 percent hydration for instance. Use the left overs of this experiment
|
||||
to feed your starter.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
\begin{figure}[!htb]
|
||||
\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{window-pane-effect}
|
||||
\caption
|
||||
{The window pane test allows you to see if you developed your gluten well enough}
|
||||
\end{figure}
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
From an economic perspective water is the cheapest component in your bread
|
||||
dough. When running a bakery a higher hydrated dough will weigh more have
|
||||
lower production costs. The profit will be higher. This comes at the price
|
||||
of increasing labor costs and more potential failures due to the enhanced
|
||||
difficulty.
|
||||
|
||||
\section{How much starter?}
|
||||
|
||||
Most bakers use around 20 percent sourdough starter based on the dough mass. I
|
||||
recommend to go way lower to around 5 to 10 percent.
|
||||
|
||||
By adjusting the amount of preferment you can influence the time your dough
|
||||
requires in the bulk fermentation stage. The more starter you use the faster
|
||||
this process is. The smaller the amount of starter the slower. With a higher
|
||||
quantity of starter you are introducing more microorganisms to your main
|
||||
dough. The higher this quantity the faster the rate of fermentation in your
|
||||
dough is.
|
||||
|
||||
The other factor influecing the rate of fermentation is the temperature of
|
||||
your dough. The warmer the temperature the faster the process, the colder the
|
||||
slower the process.
|
||||
|
||||
While food is available the microorganisms will reproduce and increase in
|
||||
quantity. The process is a self limiting process that stops when there is no
|
||||
more food available. This can be compared to whine making where
|
||||
the yeast ultimately dies as ethanol levels increase and turn the environment
|
||||
toxic. The ethanol creates a preservant that makes it impossible for other
|
||||
microorganisms to join the feast. The same thing happens with the acidity
|
||||
created by the bacteria. The high acidity slows the fermentation process and
|
||||
prevents new microorganisms from entering the system.
|
||||
|
||||
Initially your starter's properties are carried over to the main dough. Then
|
||||
as time progresses the microorganisms adapt to the new environment. If your
|
||||
starter is very bacterial then so will be your main dough's fermentation. You
|
||||
end up with a dough that is not as fluffy as it could be. It will taste quite
|
||||
sour, too sour for most people.
|
||||
|
||||
If you were to use an extreme value of around 90 percent starter based on your flour there
|
||||
would be very little room for the microorganisms to adjust in the main dough.
|
||||
If you were to just use 1 percent, your microorganisms can regrow into a
|
||||
desirable balance in the dough. Furthermore you need to consider that a high value
|
||||
of starter means a high inoculation with already fermented flour. As
|
||||
mentioned earlier enzymes break down the dough. This means the higher this
|
||||
value the more broken down fermented flour you have. A too long fermentation
|
||||
always results in a very sticky dough that can not be handled. The more
|
||||
starter you use the faster you will get to this point. If you were to use a
|
||||
very little amount of starter your flour might have naturally broken down
|
||||
before the fermentation has reached the desired stage. You can observe this
|
||||
when using a small quantity of around 1 percent sourdough starter. The small
|
||||
amount of added microorganisms will not be able to reproduce fast enough
|
||||
before the protease has broken down your dough completely.
|
||||
|
||||
As explained earlier the key to making great bread is a slow but not too slow
|
||||
fermentation. Enzymes require time to break down your dough. Taking all this
|
||||
into consideration I try to aim for a fermentation time of around 8 to 12 hours. This seems to be
|
||||
the sweet spot for most of the flours that I have worked with. To achieve this
|
||||
I use around 5 percent of sourdough starter in summer times (temperatures are
|
||||
at around 25°C in the kitchen.). In winter times I opt for around 10 percent
|
||||
up to 20 percent sourdough starter (kitchen temperature around 20°C). This
|
||||
allows me to use a sourdough starter that's not in perfect condition. Your
|
||||
bread dough is essentially a gigantic starter. The low inoculation rate allows
|
||||
the starter to regrow inside of your main dough into a desirable balance.
|
||||
Furthermore the enzymes have enough time to break down the flour. This also
|
||||
allows me to skip the so called autolysis step completely (more in next chapter).
|
||||
Making a dough becomes very simple.
|
||||
|
||||
\section{Autolyse}
|
||||
This chapter is still pending and will be added soon.
|
||||
|
||||
The autolysis describes the process of just mixing flour and water and letting
|
||||
this sit for a period of around 30 minutes up to several hours. After this
|
||||
process is completed the sourdough starter and salt is added to the
|
||||
dough.\footnote{I have tested adding the salt at the start and end of the
|
||||
autolysis process and could not notice a difference. Based ony my current
|
||||
understanding the importance of adding salt later seems to be a myth.}
|
||||
|
||||
The overall time flour and water is in contact is extended. Thus you get the
|
||||
beneficial enzymatic reactions that improve taste and characteristics of the
|
||||
dough. I do not recommend an autolysis as it adds an additional step in the
|
||||
process. Instead I recommend the fermentolyse which will be covered in the
|
||||
next chapter of this book.
|
||||
|
||||
The effects of the autolysis are very interesting. Try to mix just flour and
|
||||
water and letting that sit for a day. During the day check the consistency of
|
||||
your dough. Try and stretch the dough. If you dare you can also taste the
|
||||
dough throughout the day. With each hour progressing your dough will become
|
||||
more extensible. It will be easier to stretch the dough. At the same time your
|
||||
dough will start to taste sweet and sweeter. The protease and amylase enzymes
|
||||
are doing their job. The same process is used when making oat milk. By letting
|
||||
the mixture sit for some time enzymes work the oats. The taste is perceived as
|
||||
sweeter and more appreciated. This process is further accelerated the more
|
||||
whole wheat your flour is. The hull contains more enzymes. The gluten network
|
||||
will ultimately tear and your dough flattens out. For wheat sourdough this is
|
||||
your worst enemy. When this happen your dough will become leaky and release
|
||||
all that precious gas created during the fermentation. You need to find the
|
||||
right balance of your dough breaking down just enough and not too much.
|
||||
|
||||
When you use a high inoculation rate of around 20 percent sourdough starter
|
||||
your fermentation can be very quick. At 25°C it could be finished in 5 hours
|
||||
already. If you ferment longer your dough becomes leaky. At the same time in
|
||||
these 5 hours the enzymes have not broken down the flour enough. This means
|
||||
the dough might not be as elastic as it should be. Furthermore not enough
|
||||
sugars have been released and thus the flavor after baking is not good enough.
|
||||
\footnote{I have not seen studies yet looking at enzymatic speeds depending on
|
||||
the temperature. But I assume the higher the temperature the faster these
|
||||
reactions. This goes up until to a point when the enzymes break down under
|
||||
heat.} That's why bakers opt for the autolyse. The autolyse starts the enzymatic
|
||||
reactions before the microorganism fermentation begins. This way after 2 hours
|
||||
of autolysis (an example) and 5 hours of fermentation the dough is in the
|
||||
perfect state before beginning proofing.
|
||||
|
||||
When you try to mix your salt and starter into the flour/water dough you will
|
||||
notice how cumbersome this is. It feels like you have to knead again from scratch
|
||||
one more time. You will spend more time on mixing a dough.
|
||||
|
||||
For that reason I am advocating to utilize the fermentolyse which simplifies
|
||||
the mixing and kneading process greatly.
|
||||
|
||||
\section{Fermentolyse}
|
||||
This chapter is still pending and will be added soon.
|
||||
|
||||
The fermentolyse creates you the same advantageous dough properties the
|
||||
autolysis creates without the headache of mixing your dough twice. You do this
|
||||
by extending the fermentation time of your dough. Rather than doing a 2 hour
|
||||
autolysis and 5 hour bulk fermentation you opt for an overall 7 hour
|
||||
fermentation period.
|
||||
|
||||
To do this you use less sourdough starter. A conventional recipe including the
|
||||
autolysis step might call for 20 percent sourdough starter. Simply reduce this
|
||||
value to 5-10 percent. The other option could be to place the dough in a colder
|
||||
environment and thus reduce the speed at which your microorganisms replicate.
|
||||
|
||||
\begin{table}[!htb]
|
||||
\begin{tabular}{|l|l|l|l|}
|
||||
\hline
|
||||
\textbf{\begin{tabular}[c]{@{}l@{}}Temperature\\ in °C\end{tabular}} & \textbf{\begin{tabular}[c]{@{}l@{}}Temperature\\ in °F\end{tabular}} & \textbf{\begin{tabular}[c]{@{}l@{}}Starter\\ recently fed?\end{tabular}} & \textbf{\begin{tabular}[c]{@{}l@{}}Amount\\ of starter in\%\end{tabular}} \\ \hline
|
||||
30 & 86 & Yes & 5 \\ \hline
|
||||
25 & 77 & Yes & 10 \\ \hline
|
||||
20 & 68 & Yes & 15 \\ \hline
|
||||
30 & 86 & No & 2.5 \\ \hline
|
||||
25 & 77 & No & 5 \\ \hline
|
||||
20 & 68 & No & 10 \\ \hline
|
||||
\end{tabular}
|
||||
\caption{A table visualizing how much sourdough starter to use depending on temperature and the starter's activity level}
|
||||
\end{table}
|
||||
|
||||
Based on my experience and my sourdough my ideal breads always take around 8
|
||||
to 12 hours during the bulk fermentation. Based on my availability throughout
|
||||
the day I use more or less starter. If I wanted to achieve a completed
|
||||
fermentation in 8 hours I would opt for 10 percent sourdough starter. If I
|
||||
wanted it to be ready in 12 hours I would use less starter, around 5 percent.
|
||||
Simply mix together all the ingredients and your fermentation begins. The
|
||||
enzymes and microorganisms commence their work. On a very warm summer day the
|
||||
mentioned quantities no longer work. With 10 percent starter the same dough
|
||||
would be ready in 5 hours up to a point of no return. Another additional hour
|
||||
would cause the dough to break down too much. In this case I would opt for 5
|
||||
percent sourdough starter to slow the whole process down to reach the 8 to 12
|
||||
hour window again. If it is very hot I might use as little as 1 percent
|
||||
sourdough starter.\footnote{Please take these values with a grain of salt as
|
||||
they depend on your flour and your sourdough starter. These are values that
|
||||
you have to experiment with. After baking a couple of breads you will be able
|
||||
to read your dough much better.} You have to play with the timings on your own.
|
||||
Rather than relying on timing I will show you a much better and more precise approach
|
||||
by using a fermentation sample. This will be covered later in this chapter.
|
||||
|
||||
Even for yeasted doughs I no longer use an autolysis. I just reduce the amount
|
||||
of yeast that I am using. Opting for the fermentolysis will
|
||||
save you time and simplify your bread making. As mentioned in previous chapters,
|
||||
the secret to making great bread is a slow but not too slow fermentation.
|
||||
|
||||
\section{Dough strength}
|
||||
This chapter is still pending and will be added soon.
|
||||
|
||||
Dough strength is a fancy way to describe the bread kneading process. As you wait and
|
||||
knead the gluten bonds in your dough become stronger. The dough
|
||||
becomes more elastic and holds together better. This is the basis for trapping
|
||||
all the gases during the fermentation process. Without the gluten network
|
||||
the gases would just diffuse out of your dough.
|
||||
|
||||
\begin{figure}[!htb]
|
||||
\begin{tikzpicture}[node distance = 3cm, auto]
|
||||
\node [block] (init) {\footnotesize Homogenize recipe ingredients};
|
||||
\node [block, right of=init, node distance=3cm] (wait1) {\footnotesize Wait 15 minutes};
|
||||
\path [line] (init) -- (wait1);
|
||||
\node [block, right of=wait1, node distance=3cm] (knead1) {\footnotesize Knead 5 minutes};
|
||||
\path [line] (wait1) -- (knead1);
|
||||
\node [block, right of=knead1, node distance=3cm] (wait2) {\footnotesize Wait 15 minutes};
|
||||
\path [line] (knead1) -- (wait2);
|
||||
\node [decision, below of=wait2, node distance=3cm] (windowpane_test) {\footnotesize Window-pane?};
|
||||
\path [line] (wait2) -- (windowpane_test);
|
||||
\path [line] (windowpane_test) -- node{no} (knead1);
|
||||
\node [decision, left of=windowpane_test, node distance=4.5cm] (more_water) {\footnotesize Bassinage for more water?};
|
||||
\path [line] (windowpane_test) -- node{yes} (more_water);
|
||||
\node [block, left of=more_water, node distance=4.5cm] (add_water) {\footnotesize Add water};
|
||||
\path [line] (more_water) -- node{yes} (add_water);
|
||||
\path [line] (add_water) -- (knead1);
|
||||
\node [block, below of=add_water, node distance=4cm] (wait3) {\footnotesize Wait 15 minutes};
|
||||
\path [line] (add_water) -- (wait3);
|
||||
\node [decision, right of=wait3, node distance=4.5cm] (dough_sample) {\footnotesize Aliquot jar?};
|
||||
\path [line] (wait3) -- (dough_sample);
|
||||
\path [line] (more_water) -- node{no} (dough_sample);
|
||||
\node [block, right of=dough_sample, node distance=4.5cm] (dough_ball) {\footnotesize Make round dough ball};
|
||||
\path [line] (dough_sample) -- node{no} (dough_ball);
|
||||
\node [block, below of=dough_sample, node distance=3cm] (extract_sample) {\footnotesize Extract sample};
|
||||
\path [line] (dough_sample) -- node{yes} (extract_sample);
|
||||
\path [line] (extract_sample) -- (dough_ball);
|
||||
\node [block, below of=dough_ball, node distance=3cm] (begin_bulk) {\footnotesize Begin bulk fermentation};
|
||||
\path [line] (dough_ball) -- (begin_bulk);
|
||||
\end{tikzpicture}
|
||||
\caption{The gluten development process for a wheat based dough}
|
||||
\label{fig:wheat-sourdough-kneading-process}
|
||||
\end{figure}
|
||||
|
||||
It might sound odd but the most important part of kneading is waiting. By
|
||||
waiting you are allowing your flour to soak up water. This way the gluten
|
||||
bonds of your dough form automatically and your dough becomes more elastic.
|
||||
So you could be kneading for 10 minutes initially just to be surprised
|
||||
that kneading 5 minutes and waiting 15 minutes has the same effect.
|
||||
|
||||
The gluten proteins glutenin and gliadin virtually instantly bond after being
|
||||
hydrated. Disulfide bonds enable the longer portions of
|
||||
glutenin to join with one another and form sturdy, extensible molecules.
|
||||
Glutenins add strength, whilst the more compact gliadin proteins allow
|
||||
the dough to flow like a fluid. Ultimately the longer you wait, the more
|
||||
your gluten network transforms into a web like structure. This is what
|
||||
traps the gases during the fermentation process. \cite{how+does+gluten+work}.
|
||||
|
||||
\begin{figure}[!htb]
|
||||
\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{dough-strength-sourdough-yeast}
|
||||
\caption{A schematic visualization of
|
||||
automatic gluten development. The doughs are not kneaded, just initially
|
||||
mixed. Note how the dough strength
|
||||
deteriorates over time as enzymes break down the flour. The effect
|
||||
is accelerated for sourdough due to the bacteria's gluten proteolysis.
|
||||
}
|
||||
\end{figure}
|
||||
|
||||
The soaking process has to be extended the more whole wheat flour is used.
|
||||
The purpose of the wheat kernel's outer bran is to soak up water as fast
|
||||
as possible. The enzymes become activated and start the sprouting process.
|
||||
Because of this less water is available for the gluten bonds to develop.
|
||||
Either wait a bit longer, or proceed and use slightly more water for
|
||||
the dough.
|
||||
|
||||
This is the same principle that popular no-knead recipes follow. By making a less
|
||||
hydrated dough and waiting your gluten network automatically forms. You still
|
||||
have to mix and homogenize the ingredients. You wait a few minutes just to
|
||||
find your dough having developed incredible dough strength with no additional
|
||||
kneading.\footnote{Give it a shot yourself. The automatic formation of gluten
|
||||
networks is an amazing phenomenon that still fascinates me every time I am
|
||||
making a dough.}
|
||||
|
||||
If you over hydrate your dough at the beginning it becomes more difficult
|
||||
for the gluten chains to form. The molecules are not as close together in
|
||||
a wetter dough compared to a stiffer dough. It is harder for the molecules
|
||||
to align and form the web structure. For this reason it is always easier
|
||||
to start with a lower hydration and then increase the water quantity if needed.
|
||||
This is also commonly known as the \textit{Bassinage method}. The gluten
|
||||
bonds have formed at the lower hydration and can then be made more extensible
|
||||
by adding water and kneading again. This is a great trick to make
|
||||
a more extensible dough with a lower gluten flour. \cite{bassinage+technique}
|
||||
|
||||
When machine kneading a dough opt for the same technique shown in figure \ref*{fig:wheat-sourdough-kneading-process}.
|
||||
Initially opt for a low speed. This helps the homogenization process.
|
||||
After waiting to allow the flour to soak up the water, proceed on a higher speed
|
||||
setting. A good sign of a well developed gluten network is
|
||||
that your dough lets go of the container. This is because the gluten's elasticity.
|
||||
The elasticity is higher than the urge of the
|
||||
dough to stick to the container.
|
||||
|
||||
\begin{figure}[!htb]
|
||||
\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{dough-strength-sourdough}
|
||||
\caption{A schematic visualization of
|
||||
gluten development in sourdoughs with different kneading techniques.
|
||||
A combination of techniques can be utilized to achieve maximum
|
||||
dough strength.
|
||||
}
|
||||
\end{figure}
|
||||
|
||||
Generally the more dough strength you create, the less sticky your dough is going to
|
||||
feel. As the dough holds together it will no longer stick to your hands as
|
||||
much. This is a common problem beginners face. A sticky dough is frequently
|
||||
the sign of a not well enough developed gluten network.
|
||||
|
||||
Kneading more is great in almost all cases. You'll have a stronger
|
||||
gluten network. Only in case you are making soft milk breads you
|
||||
might want to have a more extensible dough to begin with. For every
|
||||
other type of wheat based dough kneading is helpful. When you use
|
||||
a stand mixer, you can run into the issue of kneading too much. This
|
||||
is hardly possible though. Even after kneading for 30 minutes on medium
|
||||
speed my doughs hardly ever were over-kneaded. The moment you knead
|
||||
too much the color of the dough can begin to change. You mostly
|
||||
notice this though during baking. The resulting loaf looks very
|
||||
pale and white. This is because mixing dough causes oxidation,
|
||||
which is necessary for the development of gluten.
|
||||
However, if the dough is mixed too much, the compounds that contribute
|
||||
to the bread's flavor, aroma, and color may be destroyed, negatively
|
||||
affecting the quality of the bread.\cite{oxidization+dough}
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
\section{Controlling fermentation}
|
||||
This chapter is still pending and will be added soon.
|
||||
|
||||
\section{Stretch and folds}
|
||||
This chapter is still pending and will be added soon.
|
||||
|
||||
\section{Optional Preshaping}
|
||||
This chapter is still pending and will be added soon.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
BIN
book/wheat-sourdough/window-pane-effect.jpg
Normal file
BIN
book/wheat-sourdough/window-pane-effect.jpg
Normal file
Binary file not shown.
|
After Width: | Height: | Size: 1.6 MiB |
Reference in New Issue
Block a user