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https://github.com/hendricius/the-sourdough-framework
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@@ -6,7 +6,7 @@ learn more about the yeast and bacterial microorganisms involved.
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\begin{figure}[!htb]
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\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{infographic-enzymes}
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\caption{How amylases and proteases interact with flour}
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\caption{How amylases and proteases interact with flour.}%
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\label{infographic-enzymes}
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\end{figure}
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@@ -48,8 +48,8 @@ Neither the yeast nor the bacteria can prepare their own food. However, as
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the enzymes are activated, the food they need becomes available, allowing them
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to feed and multiply.
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The two main enzymes involved in this process are \textit{amylase} and
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\textit{protease}. For reasons that will soon be made clear, they are of the
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The two main enzymes involved in this process are \emph{amylase} and
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\emph{protease}. For reasons that will soon be made clear, they are of the
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utmost importance to the home baker, and their role in the making of sourdough
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is a key puzzle piece to making better-tasting bread.
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@@ -69,30 +69,30 @@ feeding frenzy takes place. Generally, the warmer the temperature, the faster
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this reaction occurs. That's why a long fermentation is key to making great
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bread. It takes time for the amylase to break down most of the starch into
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simple sugars, which are not only consumed by the yeast but are also essential
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to the \textit{Maillard reaction}, responsible for enhanced browning during the
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to the \emph{Maillard reaction}, responsible for enhanced browning during the
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baking process.
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If you're a hobby brewer, you'll know that it's important to keep your beer at
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certain temperatures to allow the different amylases to convert the contained
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starches into sugar \cite{beer+amylase}. This process is so important that
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starches into sugar~\cite{beer+amylase}. This process is so important that
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there's a frequently used test to determine whether or not all the starches
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have been converted.
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This test, called the \textit{Iodine Starch Test}, involves mixing iodine into
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This test, called the \emph{Iodine Starch Test}, involves mixing iodine into
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a sample of your brew and checking the color. If it's blue or black, you know
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you still have unconverted starches. I wonder if such a test would also work
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you still have unconverted starches. I~wonder if such a test would also work
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for bread dough?
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Industrial bakers that add especially active yeast to produce bread in a short
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period of time face a similar issue. Their approach is to add malted flour to
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the dough. The malted flour contains many enzymes and thus speeds up the
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fermentation process. The next time you're at the supermarket, check the
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packaging of the bread you buy. If you find {\it malt} in the list of
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packaging of the bread you buy. If you find \emph{malt} in the list of
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ingredients, chances are this strategy was used.
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Note that there are actually two categories of malt. One is {\it enzymatically
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Note that there are actually two categories of malt. One is \emph{enzymatically
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active malt}, which has not been heated to above 70°C, where the amylases begin
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to degrade. The other is {\it inactive malt}, which has been heated to higher
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to degrade. The other is \emph{inactive malt}, which has been heated to higher
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temperatures and thus has no impact on your flour.
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\subsection{Protease}
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@@ -113,7 +113,7 @@ gluten network breaks down so that the dough can no longer hold together. Once
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this happens, the dough easily tears, holds no structure, and is no
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longer suitable for baking bread.
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This happened to me once when I tried to make sourdough directly from a dried
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This happened to me once when I~tried to make sourdough directly from a dried
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starter. At three to four days, the fermentation speed was so slow that the
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gluten network broke down. The root cause for this issue was protease.
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@@ -128,10 +128,11 @@ that it's quite dense and nowhere near as fluffy as it could have been. That's
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because the protease enzyme wasn't given enough time to do its job.
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At the start, while kneading, a dough becomes elastic and holds together very
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well. As that dough ferments, however, it becomes more loose and extensible
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\cite{protease+enzyme+bread}. This is because some of the gluten bonds have
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well. As that dough ferments, however, it becomes more loose and
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extensible~\cite{protease+enzyme+bread}. This is because some of the gluten
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bonds have
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been broken down naturally by the protease through a process known as
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\textit{proteolysis}. This is what makes it easier for the yeast to inflate the
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\emph{proteolysis}. This is what makes it easier for the yeast to inflate the
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dough, and it's why a long fermentation process is critical when you want to
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achieve a fluffy, open crumb with your sourdough bread.
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@@ -157,25 +158,25 @@ in this chapter.
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\subsection{Improving enzymatic activity}
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As explained previously, malt is a common trick used to speed up enzymatic
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activity. Personally, however, I prefer to avoid malt and instead use a
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trick I learned while making whole-wheat breads.
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activity. Personally, however, I~prefer to avoid malt and instead use a
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trick I~learned while making whole-wheat breads.
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When I first started making whole-wheat bread, I could never achieve the
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crust, crumb, or texture I desired no matter what I tried. Instead, my dough
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When I~first started making whole-wheat bread, I~could never achieve the
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crust, crumb, or texture I~desired no matter what I~tried. Instead, my dough
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tended to overferment rather quickly. When using a white flour with a similar
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gluten content, however, my bread always turned out great.
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At the time, I utilized an extended autolyse, which is just a fancy word for
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At the time, I~utilized an extended autolyse, which is just a fancy word for
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mixing flour and water in advance and then letting the mixture sit. Most
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recipes call for it as the process gives the dough an enzymatic head start, and
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in general it's a great idea. However, as an equally effective alternative,
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you could simply reduce the amount of leavening agent used (in the case of
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sourdough, this would be your starter). This would allow the same biochemical
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reactions to occur at roughly the same rate without requiring you to mix your
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dough several times. My whole wheat game improved dramatically after I stopped
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dough several times. My whole wheat game improved dramatically after I~stopped
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autolysing my doughs.
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Now that I've had time to think about it, the result I observed makes sense.
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Now that I've had time to think about it, the result I~observed makes sense.
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In nature, the outer parts of the seed come into contact with water first, and
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only after penetrating this barrier would the water slowly find its way to the
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center of the grain. The seed needs to sprout first to outcompete other nearby
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@@ -183,19 +184,19 @@ seeds, requiring water to enter quickly. Yet the seed must also defend itself
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against animals and potentially hazardous bacteria and fungi, requiring some
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barrier to protect the embryo inside. A way for the plant to achieve both goals
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would be for most of the enzymes to exist in the outer parts of the hull. As a
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result, they are activated first \cite{enzymatic+activity+whole+wheat}. Therefore, by just adding a
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result, they are activated first~\cite{enzymatic+activity+whole+wheat}. Therefore, by just adding a
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little bit of whole flour to your dough, you should be able to significantly
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improve the enzymatic activity of your dough. That's why, for plain white flour
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doughs, I usually add 10\textendash20\% whole-wheat flour.
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doughs, I~usually add 10\textendash20\% whole-wheat flour.
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\begin{figure}
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\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{whole-wheat-crumb}
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\caption{A whole-wheat sourdough bread}
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\caption{A whole-wheat sourdough bread.}%
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\label{whole-wheat-crumb}
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\end{figure}
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By understanding the two key enzymes \textit{amylase} and \textit{protease}, you
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By understanding the two key enzymes \emph{amylase} and \emph{protease}, you
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will be better equipped to make bread to your liking. Do you prefer a softer
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or stiffer crumb? Do you desire a lighter or darker crust? Do you wish to reduce
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the amount of gluten in your final bread? These are all factors that you can
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@@ -205,16 +206,15 @@ tweak just by adjusting the speed of your dough's fermentation.
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Yeasts are single-celled microorganisms belonging to the fungi kingdom, and
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spores that are hundreds of millions of years old have been identified by
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scientists. There are a wide variety of species--so far, about 1,500 have been
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scientists. There are a wide variety of species --- so far, about 1,500 have been
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identified. Unlike other members of the fungi kingdom such as mold, yeasts do
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not ordinarily create a mycelium network \cite{molecular+mechanisms+yeast}
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\footnote{For one interesting exception, skip ahead to the end of this
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section.}.
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not ordinarily create a mycelium network~\cite{molecular+mechanisms+yeast}.\footnote{For
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one interesting exception, skip ahead to the end of this section.}
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\begin{figure}[!htb]
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\centering
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\includegraphics[width=1.0\textwidth]{saccharomyces-cerevisiae-microscope}
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\caption{Saccharomyces cerevisiae: Brewer's yeast under the microscope}
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\caption{Saccharomyces cerevisiae: Brewer's yeast under the microscope.}%
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\label{saccharomyces-cerevisiae-microscope}
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\end{figure}
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@@ -230,10 +230,10 @@ as alcoholic beverages.
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Yeast can grow and multiply under both aerobic and anaerobic conditions. When
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oxygen is present, they produce carbon dioxide and water almost exclusively.
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When oxygen is not present, their metabolism changes to produce alcoholic
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compounds \cite{effects+oxygen+yeast+growth}.
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compounds~\cite{effects+oxygen+yeast+growth}.
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The temperatures at which yeast grows varies. Some yeasts, such as
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{\it Leucosporidium frigidum}, do best at temperatures ranging from -2°C to
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\emph{Leucosporidium frigidum}, do best at temperatures ranging from -2°C to
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20°C, while others prefer higher temperatures. In general, the warmer the
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environment, the faster the yeast's metabolism. The variety of yeast
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that you cultivate in your sourdough starter should work best within the range
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@@ -257,7 +257,7 @@ penetrate. However, there are some species that produce enzymes capable of
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breaking down those cell walls so they can infect the plant.
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Some fungi and bacteria live inside plants without causing them any distress.
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These are known as {\it endophytes}. Not only do they \textit{not} damage their
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These are known as \emph{endophytes}. Not only do they \emph{not} damage their
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host, they actually live in a symbiotic relationship, helping the plants in
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which they dwell to protect themselves from other pathogens that might also
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come to infect them through their leaves. In addition to this protection, they
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@@ -267,13 +267,13 @@ receive carbon for energy.
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However, the relationship between endophyte and plant is not always mutually
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beneficial, and sometimes, under stress, they become invasive pathogens and
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ultimately cause their host to decay \cite{endophytes+in+plants}.
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ultimately cause their host to decay~\cite{endophytes+in+plants}.
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There are other microorganisms that, unlike endophytes, do not penetrate cell
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walls but instead live on the plant's surface and receive nutrients from rain
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water, the air, or other animals. Some even feed on the honeydew produced by
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aphids or the pollen that lands on the surface of the leaves. Such organisms
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are called \textit{epiphytes}, and included among them are the types of yeast
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are called \emph{epiphytes}, and included among them are the types of yeast
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we use for baking.
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Interestingly, when you remove external food sources, a large number of
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@@ -287,7 +287,7 @@ live on the plant's surface.
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Epiphytes are advantageous to a plant's survival, as they are provided with
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enhanced protection against mold and other pathogens. Indeed, it is in the
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best interest of the epiphytes to keep their host plants alive for as long as
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possible \cite{leaf+surface+sugars+epiphytes}.
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possible~\cite{leaf+surface+sugars+epiphytes}.
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More research is conducted every day into ways that yeasts can be used as
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biocontrol agents to protect plants, the advantage being that these bio-agents
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@@ -309,7 +309,7 @@ tiny incisions into some of the grapes on a vine. Then, they infected the
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wounds with mold. Some incisions were only infected with mold. Others were also
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inoculated with some of the 150 different wild yeast strains isolated from the
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leaves. They found that when the wound was inoculated with yeast, the grape
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sustained no significant damage \cite{yeasts+biocontrol+agent}.
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sustained no significant damage~\cite{yeasts+biocontrol+agent}.
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Intriguingly, there was also an experiment performed that showed how brewer's
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yeast could function as an aggressive pathogen to grapevines. Initially, the
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@@ -325,12 +325,12 @@ In fact, they are so dominant that they outnumber the yeast in your dough 100
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to 1. Whereas yeast provides leavening power, bacteria create the distinct
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flavours for which sourdough has been named. These are due to the acidic
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byproducts that result from bacterial feeding. As a bonus, these acids
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can significantly increase the shelf life of sourdough breads.
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\cite{shelflife+acidity}
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can significantly increase the shelf life of sourdough
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breads~\cite{shelflife+acidity}.
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\begin{figure}
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\includegraphics[width=1.0\textwidth]{bacteria-microscope}
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\caption{Fructilactobacillus Sanfranciscensis under the microscope}
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\caption{Fructilactobacillus Sanfranciscensis under the microscope.}%
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\label{lactobacillus-franciscensis-microscope}
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\end{figure}
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@@ -353,23 +353,23 @@ Yeast and bacteria both compete for the same food source: sugar. Some scientists
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have reported that bacteria consume mostly maltose, while yeast prefer glucose.
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Others have reported that bacteria feed on the byproducts of yeast and vice
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versa. This makes sense, as nature generally does a superb job of composting
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and breaking down biological matter \cite{lactobacillus+sanfrancisco}.
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and breaking down biological matter~\cite{lactobacillus+sanfrancisco}.
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I have yet to find a proper source that clearly describes the symbiosis between
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I~have yet to find a proper source that clearly describes the symbiosis between
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yeast and bacteria, but my current understanding is that they both coexist and
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sometimes benefit each other, but not always. Yeast, for example, tolerate the
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acidic environment created by the surrounding bacteria and are thus protected
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from other pathogens. Meanwhile, however, other research demonstrates that both
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types of microorganisms produce compounds that prevent the other from
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metabolizing food---an interesting observation, by the way, as it could help to
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identify additional antibiotics or fungicides \cite{mold+lactic+acid+bacteria}.
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identify additional antibiotics or fungicides~\cite{mold+lactic+acid+bacteria}.
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In the past, I've tried cultivating mushrooms and observed the mycelium
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attempting to defend itself against the surrounding bacteria; both types of
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microorganisms actively produced compounds to combat each other. And yet,
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after a while, the fight seemed to reach a standstill, as the mycelium had
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fully grown around the bacterial patch, preventing it from spreading further.
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I imagine a similar scenario could be playing out in our sourdough starters,
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I~imagine a similar scenario could be playing out in our sourdough starters,
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although, given that the sourdough environment tends to be more liquid, this
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fight would have to take place everywhere in the dough and not just in an
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isolated patch. More research on this topic is required to get a better understanding of
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@@ -384,7 +384,7 @@ gluten network in your dough, resulting in a sticky mess if left unbaked for
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too long. The bacteria, too, consume and break down the gluten in your
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dough through a process called \emph{proteolysis}.
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This, to me, was a great riddle when I first started working with sourdough.
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This, to me, was a great riddle when I~first started working with sourdough.
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On the one hand, it makes the dough stickier. On the other, it makes the dough
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more extensible and easier to work with. As the gluten is reduced, the dough
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becomes easier for the microorganisms to inflate, allowing it to rise. This
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@@ -400,7 +400,7 @@ This, to me, is the amazing process of fermentation. When you eat sourdough
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bread, you are not merely consuming flour and water but the end result of
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complex biological processes accomplished by the bacteria and yeast. Because
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of the added bacterial component, sourdough bread typically contains less
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gluten than a pure yeast-based dough \cite{proteolysis+sourdough+bacteria}.
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gluten than a pure yeast-based dough~\cite{proteolysis+sourdough+bacteria}.
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Furthermore, the homofermentative bacteria metabolize the ethanol produced by
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the yeast and other heterofermentative lactic acid bacteria. In both cases,
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most of the resulting compounds are organic acids. Every natural resource in
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@@ -412,7 +412,7 @@ Depending on which flavour profile you prefer, you can select for one organic
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acid or another. Acetic acid production requires oxygen, and by depriving
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your sourdough starter of it, you can boost the population of homofermentative
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lactic acid bacteria. Over time they will become dominant and outcompete the
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acetic acid-producing bacteria \cite{acetic+acid+oxygen}.
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acetic acid-producing bacteria~\cite{acetic+acid+oxygen}.
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The optimal fermentation temperature of your lactic acid bacteria depends on
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the strains you've cultured in your starter. Generally, they work best at the
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@@ -420,9 +420,9 @@ temperature used to create your starter because you've already selected for
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bacteria that thrive under that condition.
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In one noteworthy experiment, scientists examined the lactic acid bacteria
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found on corn leaves. They lowered the ambient temperature from 20-25°C to around
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5-10°C and afterward observed varieties of the bacteria that had never been
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seen before \cite{temperature+bacteria+corn}, confirming that there is, in
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found on corn leaves. They lowered the ambient temperature from 20--25°C to around
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5--10°C and afterward observed varieties of the bacteria that had never been
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seen before~\cite{temperature+bacteria+corn}, confirming that there is, in
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fact, a large variety of bacterial strains living on the leaves of the plant.
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Incidentally, you could perform a similar experiment by kicking off a sourdough
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@@ -433,5 +433,5 @@ taste of the resulting bread.
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One last footnote worth mentioning: Some sources say that fermenting at a
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lower temperature can increase acetic acid production, while fermenting at a
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warmer temperature can boost lactic acid production. I could not verify this
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in my own tests. More research is needed on the topic.
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warmer temperature can boost lactic acid production. I~could not verify this
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in my own tests. More research is needed on the topic.
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