diff --git a/book/book.tex b/book/book.tex index cabcb59..b21aeaf 100644 --- a/book/book.tex +++ b/book/book.tex @@ -12,50 +12,10 @@ \input{cover/cover.tex} \titlepage -\frontmatter -{% -\hypersetup{hidelinks} -\ifdefined\HCode\else\tableofcontents\fi -} - -\input{intro/preface} -\input{intro/acknowledgments} - \mainmatter -\input{history/sourdough-history} - -\input{basics/how-sourdough-works} - -\input{sourdough-starter/sourdough-starter} - -\input{sourdough-starter/sourdough-starter-types} - -\input{flour-types/flour-types} - \input{bread-types/bread-types} \input{wheat-sourdough/wheat-sourdough} -\input{non-wheat-sourdough/non-wheat-sourdough} - -\input{mix-ins/mix-ins.tex} - -\input{baking/baking} - -\input{storing-bread/storing-bread} - -\chapter{Troubleshooting} -\input{troubleshooting/misc} - -\backmatter -\input{glossary/glossary} -{% -\hypersetup{hidelinks} -\listofflowcharts -\listoftables -\listoffigures -} -\printbibliography - \end{document} diff --git a/book/bread-types/bread-types.tex b/book/bread-types/bread-types.tex index 4e1ba07..ef18311 100644 --- a/book/bread-types/bread-types.tex +++ b/book/bread-types/bread-types.tex @@ -1,321 +1,5 @@ \chapter{Bread types}% \label{ch:bread-types} -\begin{quoting} -In this chapter you will learn about different bread types and their -advantages and disadvantages. You can also find very simple recipes for -flatbread and pan loaf. The former is probably the most accessible, least -effort type of bread you can make, while the latter is a little more involved. -Free standing bread has its own chapter, due to its increased complexity. -\end{quoting} - -\section{Introduction}% -\label{sec:intro} - -In this section we classify bread by its baking techniques. The appearance and -taste will of course be different, but you can get excellent bread with each -of them. Some breads will require investment and technique, as depicted in -Table~\ref{tab:bread-types-comparison}. Flatbread is probably the most -accessible, least effort type of bread you can make. If you are a busy person -and/or don’t have an oven, this might be exactly the type of bread you should -consider. -\begin{table}[!htb] - \centering - \input{tables/table-overview-bread-types.tex} - \caption[Different bread types]{An overview of different bread types - and their respective complexity.}% - \label{tab:bread-types-comparison} -\end{table} - -\section{Flatbread}% -\label{sec:flatbread} - -Flatbread is probably the simplest sourdough bread to make. -To make a flatbread no oven is required; all you need is a stove. - -\begin{figure}[!htb] - \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{flat-breads-selection} - \caption[Flatbread selection with different flours]{An assorted selection of - different flatbreads made with sourdough. From left to right: - Wheat~tortilla, rye, spelt and corn.}% -\end{figure} - -This type of bread is super simple to make as you can skip -a lot of the technique that is normally required to make wheat doughs. -The flatbread can be made with all kinds of flours. You can even use -flour without gluten, such as corn or rice flour, to make the -dough. To make the flatbread a little more fluffy, you -can use a little bit of wheat flour. The developing gluten -will trap the gases. During baking, these gases will -inflate the dough. - -Another trick to improve the texture of the flatbread is to -make a very wet dough. A lot of the water will evaporate -during the baking process and thus make the bread fluffier. -If your water content is very high, it will produce a -pancake-like consistency, as you can see in -Table~\ref{tab:flat-bread-ingredients} - -\begin{table}[!htb] - \centering - \input{tables/table-flat-bread-pancake-recipe.tex} - \caption[Flatbread recipe]{Flatbread or pancake recipe for 1 person. - Multiply the ingredients to increase portion size. Refer to the - Section~\ref{sec:bakers-math} - ``\nameref{sec:bakers-math}'' to learn how to understand and - use the percentages properly.}% - \label{tab:flat-bread-ingredients} -\end{table} - -For a full recipe including the process of making such a flatbread, refer to -Subsection~\ref{subsec:flat-bread-recipe} - -\subsection{Flatbread framework}% -\label{subsec:flat-bread-framework} - -As explained above, if you are just getting started, making a flatbread is the -easiest way to start making great bread at home. With just a -few steps, you can stop buying bread forever. This works with -any flour, including gluten-free options. - -\begin{flowchart}[!htb] -\centering - \input{figures/fig-process-flat-bread.tex} - \caption[The process to make a sourdough flatbread]{The process of making a flatbread is very - simple, requiring very little effort. This type of bread is especially - handy for busy bakers.}% - \label{fig:flat-bread-process} -\end{flowchart} - -This is my go-to recipe that I~use to make bread whenever -I~have little time or when I~am abroad. You can choose -between two options: -% -\begin{enumerate} - \item A flatbread similar to a roti or naan bread - \item Sourdough pancakes. -\end{enumerate} - -To get started prepare your sourdough starter. If it has not been used for a very -long time, consider giving it another feed. To do so, simply take \qty{1}{\gram} of your -existing sourdough starter and feed it with \qty{5}{\gram} of flour and \qty{5}{\gram} of water. -If you do this in the morning, your sourdough starter will be ready in the evening. The -warmer it is, the sooner it will be ready, consider -using warm water if it is very cold where you live. - -\begin{figure}[htb!] -\centering - \includegraphics[width=1.0\textwidth]{flat-bread-wheat} - \caption[Wheat flatbread]{A flatbread made with purely wheat flour. The - dough is drier at around \qty{60}{\percent} hydration. The drier dough - is a little harder to mix. As wheat contains more gluten, the dough - puffs up during the baking process.} -\end{figure} - -This way you should have around \qty{11}{\gram} of sourdough ready in the evening. You will have -the perfect quantity to make a dough for one person. In case you want to make more -bread, simply multiply the quantities shown in -Table~\ref{tab:flat-bread-ingredients}. - -Then in the evening simply mix the ingredients as shown in the table. Your dough -is going to be ready in the morning. It's typically ready after 6--12~hours. If -you use more sourdough starter it will be ready faster, conversely it will take -longer if you use less. Try to aim for a fermentation time of 8--12~hours as -by using your dough too soon, the flavor might not be as good. By using your -dough later it might become a little more sour. The best option is to -experiment and see what you personally like the most. - -After mixing the ingredients together cover the container, this prevents the -dough from drying out and makes -sure no fruit flies get access. A transparent container will be helpful -when getting started. You can observe the dough more easily and see when -it is ready. - -\begin{figure}[htb] -\centering - \includegraphics[width=1.0\textwidth]{ethiopian-woman-checking-bread} - \caption[Ethiopian \emph{injera}]{An Ethiopian woman baking an \emph{injera} - made using teff flour. The image has been provided by Charliefleurene - via Wikipedia.} -\end{figure} - -If you used the flatbread option with less water, look at the size increase -of your dough. It should have increased at least \qty{50}{\percent} in size. -Also look out for bubbles on the sides of your container. - -When using the pancake recipe, look out for bubbles on the surface of your dough. -In both cases use your nose to check the scent of your dough. Depending -on your sourdough starter's microbiome your dough will have -dairy, fruity, alcoholic notes or vinegary, acetic notes. Relying -on the smell of your dough is the best way to judge whether your -dough is ready or not. Timings are not reliable as they -depend on your starter and the temperature. If your dough -is ready too soon, you can now move it directly to the fridge and bake -it at a later, more convenient time. The low temperature will halt the fermentation -process\footnote{There are some exceptions. In some rare cases your starter -might also work at lower temperatures. You might have cultivated microbes that work best at -low temperatures. Nevertheless, fermentation -is always slower the colder it gets. A fridge really helps to preserve the state -of your dough.} -and your dough will last for several days. The longer you wait, the more sour the -bread is going to be. The fridge is a great option in case you want to -take the dough with you when visiting friends. People are going -to love you for the freshly baked flatbreads or pancakes. If you dare, -you can also taste a little bit of your raw uncooked dough. It is likely -going to taste relatively sour. I~do this frequently to better evaluate the -state of my doughs. - -\begin{figure}[!htb] -\centering - \includegraphics[width=1.0\textwidth]{injera-pancake-texture.jpg} - \caption[Teff sourdough pancake]{A sourdough pancake made with teff flour. - The pockets come from evaporated water and \ch{CO2} created by the - microbes. The image has been provided by Łukasz Nowak via Wikipedia.} -\end{figure} - -If you are feeling lazy or don't have time, you could also use older sourdough starter -to make the dough directly without any prior starter feedings. Your sourdough starter -is going to regrow inside your dough. Remember that the -final bread might be a bit more on the sour side as the balance of yeast to -bacteria could be off. In the Table~\ref{tab:flat-bread-ingredients} -I~recommended using around \qtyrange{5}{20}{\percent} -of sourdough starter based on the flour to make the dough. If you were to follow -this approach, just use around \qty{1}{\percent} and make the dough directly. -The dough is probably going to be ready 24~hours later, depending on the temperature. - -If you want to make sweet pancakes, add some sugar and optional eggs to your dough -now. A good quantity of eggs is around one~egg per \qty{100}{\gram} of flour. -Stir your dough a little bit and it will be ready to be used. You'll -have delicious sweet savory pancakes, the perfect combination. By -adding the sugar now, you make sure that the microbes don't have -enough time to fully ferment it. If you had added the sugar -earlier, no sweet flavor would be left 12~hours later. - -To bake your dough heat your stove to medium temperature. Add a little bit of -oil to the pan. This helps with heat distribution and ensures even cooking. -With a spatula or a spoon place your dough in the pan. If your dough -was sitting in the fridge, bake it directly. There is no need to wait for your -dough to come to room temperature. If you have a lid, -place it on your pan. The lid helps to cook your dough from the top. -The evaporating water will circulate and heat up the dough's surface. When -making a flatbread, make the dough around \qty{1}{\cm} thick. When using the -pancake option, opt for around \qtyrange{0.1}{0.5}{\cm} depending on what you -like. - -\begin{figure}[htb] -\centering - \includegraphics[width=1.0\textwidth]{einkorn-crumb.jpg} - \caption[Einkorn crum]{The crumb of a flatbread made with einkorn as flour. - Einkorn is very low in gluten and thus does not trap as much \ch{CO2} as - a wheat based dough. To make the dough fluffier use more water or - consider adding more wheat to the mix of your dough.} -\end{figure} - -After 2--4~minutes flip over the pancake or flatbread. Bake it for the same -time from the other side. Depending on what you like, you can wait a little -longer to allow the bread to become a bit charred. The longer you -bake your bread, the more of the acidity is going to evaporate. If your -dough is a bit more on the sour side, you can use this trick to balance -out the acidity. This really depends on which flavor you are looking for. - -When making a flatbread I~recommend wrapping the baked flatbreads in a kitchen -towel. This way more of the evaporating humidity stays inside of your bread, -making sure your flatbreads stay nice and fluffy for a longer period after the -bake. A similar strategy is used when making corn tortillas. - -You can safely store the baked flatbreads or pancakes in your fridge -for weeks. When storing make sure to store them in an airtight plastic bag so that -they do not dry out. If they dry out, spray them with some water and toast them. -They will be almost as good as when they were freshly baked. - -Keep a little bit of your unbaked dough. You can use it to make the next -batch of bread or pancakes for the next day. If you want to bake a few days later, add -a little bit of water and flour and store this mixture in your fridge -for as long as you like\footnote{The starter will stay good for months. If you expect to -leave it longer, consider drying a little bit of your sourdough starter.}. - -\subsection{Simple flatbread recipe}% -\label{subsec:flat-bread-recipe} - -By following the steps outlined in this section, -you'll be introduced to a versatile bread that's perfect for a myriad of -culinary applications. Whether you're scooping up a savory dip, -wrapping a flavorful filling, or simply enjoying a piece with a drizzle -of olive oil, these flatbreads are sure to impress. - -\input{recipes/flat-bread.tex} - -\section{Loaf pan bread}% -\label{sec:loaf-pan-bread} - -Loaf pan bread is made using the help of a special loaf pan -or loaf tin. The edges of the pan provide additional support -for the dough to rise. Making a bread using a loaf pan requires -an oven. - -\begin{figure}[!htb] - \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{loaf-pan-free-standing.jpg} - \caption[Freestanding bread and pan bread]{A freestanding bread and a wheat - loaf pan bread. Both of them received a small incision before baking - which helps to control how they open up.}% - \label{fig:free-standing-loaf-pan} -\end{figure} - -After mixing your dough, you can place it directly into the loaf pan. -This makes the whole process simpler since you can skip steps such -as shaping the dough. - -To make a great loaf pan bread with little work: - -\begin{enumerate} - \item Mix the ingredients of your dough (gluten free works too) - \item Place into the loaf pan - \item Wait until your dough has roughly doubled in size - \item Bake in a non pre-heated oven for around 30--50~minutes -\end{enumerate} - -Knowing the exact baking time is sometimes a little challenging -as it might be that the outside of your bread is cooked but -the inside is still raw. The best way is to use a thermometer -and measure the core temperature. At around \qty{92}{\degreeCelsius} -(\qty{197}{\degF}) your dough is done. I~generally bake loaf pan bread at -around \qty{200}{\degreeCelsius} (\qty{390}{\degF}), which is a little less -than my freestanding bread which I~bake at \qty{230}{\degreeCelsius} -(\qty{445}{\degF}). That's because it takes a while for the dough -to bake properly inside the loaf pan. The edges don't heat up -as quickly. Then the top part of the dough is properly cooked, while -the inside isn't yet. When baking make sure to use steam -or simply place another equally sized loaf pan on top -of your loaf pan. This way you simulate a Dutch oven. The dough's -evaporating moisture will stay inside. - -A good trick to make excellent loaf pan bread is to make a very -sticky dough. You can opt for a hydration of \qtyrange{90}{100}{\percent}, almost -resembling a default sourdough starter. Just like with flatbread, -the high humidity helps to make a more airy, fluffy crumb. The bread will -also be a bit chewier. This type of bread made with rye is my family's favorite -style of bread. The hearty rye flavor paired with the sticky consistency really -makes an excellent sandwich bread. - -To improve the structure you can also consider using around \qty{50}{\percent} -wheat flour in your mix. The gluten network will develop as your -dough ferments and allow for more gas to be trapped in the dough. - -A common problem you will face when making a loaf pan bread is -the dough sticking to the pan. Use a generous amount of oil to grease -your pan. A nonstick vegetable oil spray can do wonders. -Don't clean your loaf pans with soap. Just use a kitchen towel -to clean them. With each bake a better patina forms, making your -pan more and more stick resistant. - -What's amazing about this type of bread is that it works -with every flour. The overall time to work the dough is probably -less than 5~minutes, making it very easy to integrate -into your daily routine. Furthermore, loaf pans use the space -in your oven very efficiently. Using pans I~can -easily bake 5 loaves at the same time in my home oven. -Normally I~would need multiple baking sessions for -freestanding loaves. - \section{Free standing bread} A freestanding loaf is baked entirely without supporting diff --git a/book/wheat-sourdough/wheat-sourdough.tex b/book/wheat-sourdough/wheat-sourdough.tex index 328e031..29037d6 100644 --- a/book/wheat-sourdough/wheat-sourdough.tex +++ b/book/wheat-sourdough/wheat-sourdough.tex @@ -1,1703 +1,2 @@ \chapter{Wheat sourdough}% \label{ch:wheat-sourdough} - -\begin{quoting} -In this chapter, you will learn how to make -freestanding wheat sourdough bread. -\end{quoting} - -\begin{figure}[!htb] - \centering - \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{loaf-pan-free-standing.jpg} - \caption[Freestanding and loaf pan bread]{A freestanding sourdough bread - next to bread made in a loaf pan. Freestanding sourdough is considered - the supreme discipline of sourdough bread by many bakers.} -\end{figure} - -Freestanding sourdough bread is my favorite -type of bread. It combines a great crunchy crust, superb -flavor, and a soft fluffy crumb. This is the type of bread -that is being inhaled by my friends and family. Unfortunately, -making this type of bread requires a lot more effort, patience, -and technique than other types of bread. You have to perfectly -balance the fermentation process. You cannot ferment for too -short and also not for too long. The techniques you need to -learn also require a bit more skill. It took me several attempts -to get this right. I faced several challenges: I~had the wrong flour. -I~didn't properly know how to use my oven. -When should I~stop the fermentation? There is a lot of information -out there. I~dug through most of it and have tried almost everything. -In many cases the information was wrong; in other cases, I~found another -valuable puzzle piece. Aggregating all this -information was one of my main motivations to start \texttt{The Bread Code}. -My key learning was that there is no recipe that -you can blindly follow. You will always have to adapt the recipe -to your locally available tools and environment. - -But do not worry. After reading this chapter you will know all the signs to -look out for. You will be able to read your dough. You will turn into a -confident hobby baker who can bake bread at home, at high altitudes, at low -altitudes, in summer, in winter, at your friend's place, and even on vacation. -Furthermore, you will know how to scale your production from one loaf to -hundred loaves of bread. If you ever wanted to open up a bakery, consider -this knowledge to be your foundation. - -Mastering this process will enable you to make amazing bread -that tastes much better than any store-bought bread. - -\section{The process} - -\begin{flowchart}[!htb] - \centering - \input{figures/fig-wheat-sourdough-process.tex} - \caption{The typical process of making a wheat-based sourdough bread.}% - \label{fig:wheat-sourdough-process} -\end{flowchart} - -The whole process of making great sourdough bread starts with -readying your sourdough starter. The key to mastering -this process is to manage the fermentation process properly. -For this, the basis is to have an active and healthy -sourdough starter. - -Once your starter is ready, you proceed to mix all the ingredients. -You want to homogenize your sourdough starter properly. This -way you ensure an even fermentation across your whole dough. - -After a short break, you will proceed and create dough strength. -Kneading will create a strong gluten network. This is essential -to properly trap the \ch{CO2} created during the fermentation. - -Once you've kneaded, the bulk fermentation starts. It is called bulk fermentation -because you typically ferment multiple loaves together in one bulk. -Understanding when to stop this step will take some practice. -But nothing to worry about, you will learn the exact signs to look out for. - -Once this is completed you need to divide your large blob of -dough into smaller pieces and pre-shape each piece. This allows -you to apply more dough strength and shape more uniform loaves. - -The proofing stage follows where you finish the fermentation process. -Depending on your time you can proof it at room temperature or in the fridge. -Mastering proofing will turn your good loaf into a great loaf. - -Lastly, you will finish the whole process by baking. You will learn different -options on how to properly steam your dough. This way your -dough will have a beautiful oven spring. During the second -stage of the baking process, you will finish building your crust. - -All the steps rely on each other. You will need to get each of -the steps right to make the perfect bread. - -\section{Readying your starter}% -\label{sec:readying-starter} - -The most crucial part of the bread-making process is your starter. -The starter is what starts the fermentation in your main dough. -If your starter is off, then your main dough is also going -to cause trouble during the fermentation. Your starter's -properties are passed on to your main dough. If your starter -doesn't have a good balance of yeast to bacteria, neither will your -main dough. - -\begin{flowchart}[!htb] -\centering - \input{figures/fig-starter-readiness.tex} - \caption[Process to prepare your starter before baking]{The process to check - your sourdough starter when making wheat-based doughs. In practice - I~frequently use a stiff sourdough starter. The stiff starter features - enhanced yeast activity. In that case, you can use the same ratios as - shown in the chart except for the water quantity. The stiff starter has - a hydration of \qtyrange{50}{60}{\percent}. So you would have half the - shown water quantities, i.e., if the chart shows \qty{100}{\gram} of - water, use \qtyrange{50}{60}{\gram} of water for your stiff starter.}% - \label{fig:process-starter-wheat-sourdough} -\end{flowchart} - -Generally, think of the dough you are mixing as a big starter with salt. -After mixing all the ingredients, you have a green field environment again. -The yeast and bacteria start to fight again to outcompete each other. -There is plenty of food available, and they all do their best to win. -Depending on the starter you mix into your dough, some of the microorganisms -might have an advantage over others. - -The first option to achieve a good balance is to apply feedings. -If your starter hasn't been fed in a long period, the -bacteria dominate. This happens if your starter has been -sitting unused in the fridge, for instance. As more and more -acidity piles up, the environment is becoming more and more hostile -to the yeast. The lactic acid bacteria tolerate this environment -better. Your dough fermentation would be more on the -bacterial side with this starter. By applying a couple of -feedings, the yeast becomes more active. The older your -starter, the more acid resistant the yeast becomes. Initially, -I~had to feed my starter 2--3 times to fix the balance. With my -more mature starter, one feeding seems to be enough to balance -the microorganisms. - -Some people use a 1:1:1 ratio to refresh the starter. This would -be one part of the old starter (\qty{10}{\gram} for instance), 1 part of flour, -and one part of water. I~think this is utter rubbish. As mentioned -your starter is a miniature dough. You would never opt for a 1:1:1 ratio to -make dough. You might use a maximum of \qty{20}{\percent} starter to -make dough. That's why I~advocate using a 1:5:5 ratio or a -1:10:10 ratio depending on how ripe your starter is. As I~almost -always use a stiffer sourdough starter due to its enhanced -yeast fermentation advantages (see Section~\ref{sec:stiff-starter}) -my ratio is never 1:5:5. My ratio would be 1:5:2.5 (1~part old starter, -5~parts flour, 2.5~parts water). If it is very warm where you live -you could opt for the aforementioned 1:10:5 or 1:20:10. This -way you slow down the ripening of your starter. You can also use this -trick to make starter feeding work with your schedule. -If your starter is typically ready in 6~hours but today you need it -ready later, simply increase how much flour/water you feed your starter. -These are all values that you need to experiment with on your own. -Every starter is unique and might behave slightly differently. - -The second option at your disposal is the starter quantity that -you use to make the dough. As previously stated your starter -regrows inside of your main dough. While I~would normally use -\qtyrange{10}{20}{\percent} of starter based on the flour, sometimes I~go -as low as \qty{1}{\percent} starter. This way the microorganisms have -more room to balance out while fermenting the dough. If my sourdough -starter has not been fed in a day, I~might use \qty{5}{\percent} of sourdough -to make a dough. If I~push this to 2~days without feedings, -I~lower the starter amount even further. I~would opt for the -previously mentioned \qty{1}{\percent} starter. If the food is very scarce, -your microorganisms will sporulate. They need to regrow again -from the spores they created. In this hibernation state, it takes -longer for them to become fully active again. I~have tried -several times to make dough directly out of a dry starter. -I~wasn't successful because the fermentation took too long. -The microorganisms had to regrow from spores and then begin -the fermentation. As explained earlier there is a limit to -fermentation times as your dough naturally breaks down. -Furthermore, you want your microorganisms to outcompete -other pathogens contained in the flour. The less starter -you use, the easier it is for them to reproduce. A strong -starter will outcompete other germs. While the method of -reducing the starter works, I~recommend Option~1 more. -It will reliably create better bread. Option~2 is typically -what I~use when I~fed my starter in the morning but didn't -manage to make a dough in the evening. I~don't want to feed -my starter again the next morning. I~would like to make a dough -directly without waiting and thus use less of the very ripe starter. - -Over time you will become more accustomed to your starter -and how it behaves. You will be able to read the signs of its -activity and judge its state. - -\section{Ingredients} - -All you need to make great sourdough bread is flour, water, and salt. You -can of course add additional things to your dough such as seeds. I~personally -enjoy the hearty taste of whole-wheat. Thus I~like to add around -\qtyrange{20}{30}{\percent} of whole-wheat flour to the mix. You could also -make this recipe with \qty{100}{\percent} -whole-wheat flour directly. In this case, look out for strong whole-wheat -flour that is made from flour with higher protein. If you don't like whole-wheat -you can omit the flour from the recipe. Simply replace the listed -quantity with bread flour. One thing to consider about whole-wheat -flour is its increased enzymatic activity. By adding some whole-wheat -flour you will speed up the whole fermentation process. - -Especially when getting started I~recommend using bread flour which -contains more gluten than all-purpose or cake flour. This is essential -when trying to bake a freestanding loaf with sourdough. - -Find below an example recipe for one loaf including baker's math calculation: - -\begin{itemize} - \item \qty{400}{\gram} of bread flour - \item \qty{100}{\gram} of whole-wheat flour - % Manual unit so we can use emphasis - \item \emph{Total: 500~g of flour} - \item \qtyrange{300}{450}{\gram} of room temperature water (\qty{60}{\percent} up to \qty{90}{\percent}). More on -this topic in the next chapter. - \item \qty{50}{\gram} of stiff sourdough starter (\qty{10}{\percent}) - \item \qty{10}{\gram} of salt (\qty{2}{\percent}) -\end{itemize} - -In case you want to make more bread simply increase the quantities based on -how much flour you have. Let's say you have \qty{2000}{\gram} of flour available. The -recipe would look like this: - -\begin{itemize} - \item \qty{1600}{\gram} of bread flour - \item \qty{400}{\gram} of whole-wheat flour - % Manual unit so we can use emphasis again - \item \emph{Total: 2000~g of flour}, equaling 4 loaves - \item \qty{1200}{\gram} up to \qty{1800}{\gram} of room temperature water (60 to \qty{90}{\percent}) - \item \qty{200}{\gram} of stiff sourdough starter (\qty{10}{\percent}) - \item \qty{40}{\gram} of salt (\qty{2}{\percent}) -\end{itemize} - -This is the beauty of baker's math. Simply recalculate the percentages, and you -are good to go. If you are unsure about how this works, please check out the -full Section~\ref{sec:bakers-math} which looks at the topic in detail. - -\section{Hydration} - -Hydration refers to how much water you use for your flour. When -beginning to make bread, I~always got this wrong. I~followed a recipe from the -internet, and my dough never looked like the dough shown in the recipe. -The amount of water your flour requires is not fixed. It depends on the flour -you have. - -When a seed gets into contact initially, the outer layers soak up the water. -That's why when using whole-wheat (still containing these layers) you have to -use a little bit more water. - -By forming gluten strands, water is absorbed into your dough's gluten matrix. -The higher the protein value, the more water can be used. - -Some bakers like to use highly hydrated doughs to create fluffier -bread\footnote{Sometimes it almost feels like a comparison of skill value -between bakers. The more water they can handle, the more skillful the baker.}. -The reason for this -is the dough's improved extensibility. The wetter the dough, the easier it is -for the dough to be stretched. When you pull it, the dough will hold its -shape. In comparison, a very stiff (low hydration) dough will maintain its -shape for a longer period. To visualize this, think of your extensible -dough as a balloon. The stiff dough is like a car tire. -The yeast has a much harder time inflating the car tire compared to the balloon. -That’s because the rubber of the car tire is much less extensible. -It requires much more force to inflate the tire. For this reason, -an extensible dough will inflate more in the oven. The loaf will -be visually bigger and offer an airier more open crumb structure. - -While this might sound great, the high hydration causes several side effects. - -\begin{enumerate} - \item Your dough becomes more difficult to handle. Your dough will be stickier. - \item Your dough has to be kneaded for longer to build a proper gluten - network. - \item During the fermentation your dough might become too extensible and lose - some of the dough strength. To circumvent this, stretch and folds are applied - compared to regular dough, - requiring you to invest a lot more work. - \item Shaping becomes much more of a hassle as the dough is very sticky. - \item The dough can stick to the banneton a lot easier while proofing. - \item If you wait too long during proofing, the dough won't have enough strength - left to pull upwards and will stay flat. - \item Generally, the higher the water content, the more bacterial fermentation you - have. Thus a wetter dough will reduce gluten faster than a stiffer dough. - This is why you have to start the fermentation with a sourdough starter in - perfect shape. Bakers use a process called autolysis to shorten the main - fermentation time to circumvent this. - \item The crumb, in the end, might be perceived as somewhat sticky. It still - contains a lot of water. I~love this crumb, but this comes down to personal - taste. -\end{enumerate} - -To achieve a high-hydration dough, it is best to slowly add water to -your dough. Start with \qty{60}{\percent} hydration, then slowly add a bit more water. Knead -again until the water is absorbed. Repeat and add more water. As your dough -has already formed a gluten network, new water can be absorbed much easier. -You will be surprised by how much water your dough can soak up. This -method is commonly known as the bassinage method. More on that later. -By opting for this technique, I~was easily able to push a low-gluten flour -to a hydration of \qty{80}{\percent}. This -is also my method of choice when making dough now. I~keep adding water until -I~can feel that the dough has the right consistency. As you bake more bread, -you will develop a better look and feel for your dough. When mixing -by hand this can be quite cumbersome. It is a lot easier when using a stand -mixer. - -All in all, increasing hydration requires a lot of trial and error. There -is however one option that makes things easier and causes fewer headaches: -Slow fermentation. You get the same extensibility advantages the high hydration -offers by simply letting your dough ferment for a longer period. -Slowing the fermentation process is easy. Use less -sourdough starter or ferment in a cooler environment. - -There are two reasons for the slow fermentation advantages. As explained -earlier, both the protease enzyme and bacteria break down your gluten network. -So as fermentation progresses, your dough will automatically become more -extensible. This is because the rubber layers of your car tire are slowly -converted and eaten. Ultimately your car tire turns into a balloon that can -very easily be inflated. When waiting too long, the balloon will burst. You -will have no gluten left anymore, and your dough becomes very sticky. Finding -the sweet spot of enough rubber eating and not too much is what the perfect -wheat sourdough bread is about. But don't worry---after reading this chapter -you will have the right tools at your disposal. - -The advantages of slow fermentation can be nicely observed when experimenting -with a fast-fermenting yeast dough (\qty{1}{\percent} dry yeast based on flour). The -crumb of such a dough is never as -open as a dough made with sourdough. Furthermore, the protease enzyme -cannot do its job within such a short fermentation period. -Large industrial bakeries add active malt which contains a -lot more enzymes. This way the time required to make the dough is shortened. You -will most likely find malt as an ingredient in supermarket bread. It is a -great hack. The baked turbo fermentation bread will feature a relatively dense -and not fluffy crumb. That is because only very little gluten is broken down when -finishing the fermentation period in 1~hour. If you were to slow things down, -the dough would look completely different. -Try this again and use much less yeast. This is the -secret of Neapolitan pizza. Only a tiny bit of yeast is used to make the -dough. My default pizza recipe calls for around \qty{150}{\mg} of dry -yeast per \unit{\kg} of flour. Give it a shot yourself the next time you -make a yeast-based dough. Try to push the fermentation to at least 8~hours. -The difference is incredible. You will have made bread with a much more -fluffy and open crumb. The flavor of the dough is drastically improved. Your -crust becomes crisper and features a better taste. This is because amylases have -converted your starches into simpler sugars which brown better during baking. -If you only learn one thing from this book, it is that slow fermentation is -the key to making great bread. - -For this reason, my default hydration is much lower than the hydration of other -bakers. I~prefer slower fermentation for my recipes. -The sweet spot for my default flour is at around \qty{70}{\percent} hydration. -Again, this is a highly subjective value that works for my flour. - -If you are just getting started with a new batch of flour, -I~recommend conducting the following test. This will help you to -identify the sweet spot of your flour's hydration capabilities. - -Make five bowls with each \qty{100}{\gram} of flour. Add different slightly -increasing water amounts to each of the bowls. - -\begin{itemize} - \item \qty{100}{\gram} of flour, \qty{55}{\gram} of water - \item \qty{100}{\gram} of flour, \qty{60}{\gram} of water - \item \qty{100}{\gram} of flour, \qty{65}{\gram} of water - \item \qty{100}{\gram} of flour, \qty{70}{\gram} of water - \item \qty{100}{\gram} of flour, \qty{75}{\gram} of water -\end{itemize} - -Proceed and mix the flour and water mixture until you see that there -are no chunks of flour left. Wait 15~minutes and return to your dough. -Carefully pull the dough apart with your hands. Your dough should be elastic, holding -together very well. Stretch your dough until very thin. Then hold it against a light. -You should be able to see through it. The flour-water mixture that breaks without -seeing the windowpane is your no-go zone. Opt for a dough with -less hydration than this value. You will know that your flour mix can go up to - \qty{65}{\percent} hydration, for instance. Use the leftovers of this experiment -to feed your starter. - - -\begin{figure}[!htb] - \centering - \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{window-pane-effect} - \caption[The window pane test]{The window pane test allows you to see if you - developed your gluten well enough.} -\end{figure} - - -From an economic perspective, water is the cheapest component in your bread -dough. When running a bakery, a higher hydrated dough will weigh more and have -lower production costs. The profit will be higher. This comes at the price -of increasing labor costs and more potential failures due to the enhanced -difficulty. - -\section{How much starter?} - -Most bakers use around \qty{20}{\percent} sourdough starter based on the -flour weight. I~recommend going much lower, to around -\qtyrange{5}{10}{\percent}. - -By adjusting the amount of pre-ferment you can influence the time your dough -requires in the bulk fermentation stage. The more starter you use, the faster -this process is. The smaller the starter quantity, the slower. With a higher -quantity of starter, you are introducing more microorganisms to your main -dough. The higher this quantity, the faster the rate of fermentation in your -dough is. - -The other factor influencing the rate of fermentation is the temperature of -your dough. The warmer the temperature, the faster the process; the colder, the -slower the process. - -While food is available, the microorganisms will reproduce and increase in -quantity. The process is self-limiting: it stops when there is no -more food available. This can be compared to wine making where -the yeast ultimately sporulates and dies as ethanol levels increase. The ethanol creates an -environment that makes it impossible for other -microorganisms to join the feast. The same thing happens with the acidity -created by the bacteria. The high acidity slows the fermentation process and -prevents new microorganisms from entering the system. - -Initially, your starter's properties are carried over to the main dough. Then, -as time progresses, the microorganisms adapt to the new environment. If your -starter is very bacterial then your main dough's fermentation will also be. You -end up with a dough that is not as fluffy as it could be. It will taste quite -sour, too sour for most people. - -If you were to use an extreme value of around \qty{90}{\percent} starter based on your flour, there -would be very little room for the microorganisms to adjust in the main dough. -If you were to just use \qty{1}{\percent}, your microorganisms can regrow into a -desirable balance in the dough. Furthermore, you need to consider that a high value -of starter means a high inoculation with already fermented flour. As -mentioned earlier, enzymes break down the dough. This means the higher this -value, the more broken-down fermented flour you have. A too-long fermentation -always results in a very sticky dough that cannot be handled. The more -starter you use, the faster you will get to this point. If you were to use a -very little amount of starter, your flour might have naturally broken down -before the fermentation has reached the desired stage. You can observe this -when using a small quantity of around \qty{1}{\percent} sourdough starter. The small -amount of added microorganisms will not be able to reproduce fast enough -before the protease has broken down your dough completely. - -As explained earlier the key to making great bread is a slow but not too slow -fermentation. Enzymes require time to break down your dough. Taking all this -into consideration, I~try to aim for a fermentation time of around 8 to 12~hours. This seems to be -the sweet spot for most of the flours that I~have worked with. To achieve this, -I~use around \qty{5}{\percent} of sourdough starter in summer times -(temperatures around \qty{25}{\degreeCelsius} (\qty{77}{\degF}) in the -kitchen). In winter times I~opt for around \qty{10}{\percent} up to -\qty{20}{\percent} sourdough starter (kitchen temperature around -\qty{20}{\degreeCelsius} (\qty{68}{\degF})). This -allows me to use a sourdough starter that's not in perfect condition. As -explained earlier, your -bread dough is essentially a gigantic starter. The low inoculation rate allows -the starter to regrow inside your main dough into a desirable balance. -Furthermore, the enzymes have enough time to break down the flour. This also -allows me to skip the so-called autolysis step completely (more in the next section). -This greatly simplifies the whole process. - -\section{Autolysis}% -\label{sec:autolysis} - -Autolysis describes the process of just mixing flour and water and letting -this sit for a period of around 30~minutes up to several hours. After this -process is completed, the sourdough starter and salt are added to the -dough\footnote{I~have tested adding the salt at the start and end of the -autolysis process and could not notice a difference. Based on my current -understanding, the importance of adding salt later seems to be a myth.}. - -The overall time that flour and water are in contact is extended. Thus you get the -beneficial enzymatic reactions that improve the taste and characteristics of the -dough. I~do not recommend autolysis as it adds an unnecessary step to the -process. Instead, I~recommend the fermentolysis technique which will be covered in the -next section of this book. - -The effects of autolysis are very interesting. Try to mix just flour and -water and let that sit for a day. During the day, check the consistency of -your dough. Try and stretch the dough. If you dare, you can also taste the -dough throughout the day. With each hour, your dough will become -more extensible. It will be easier to stretch the dough. At the same time, your -dough will start to taste sweeter and sweeter. The protease and amylase enzymes -are doing their job. The same process is used when making oat milk. By letting -the mixture sit for some time, enzymes work on the oats. The taste is perceived as -sweeter and more appreciated. This process is further accelerated the more -whole-grain your flour is. The hull contains more enzymes. The gluten network -will ultimately tear, and your dough flattens out. For wheat sourdough, this is -your worst enemy. When this happens, your dough will become leaky and release -all that precious gas created during the fermentation. You need to find the -right balance of your dough breaking down just enough and not too much. - -When you use a high inoculation rate of around \qty{20}{\percent} sourdough starter -your fermentation can be very quick. At \qty{25}{\degreeCelsius} it could be finished in as little as 5~hours. -If you ferment longer, your dough becomes leaky. At the same time, in -these 5~hours, the enzymes have not broken down the flour enough. This means -the dough might not be as elastic as it should be. Furthermore, not enough -sugars have been released and thus the flavor after baking is not good -enough\footnote{I~have not seen studies yet looking at enzymatic speeds depending on -the temperature. But I~assume the higher the temperature, the faster these -reactions. This goes up until a point when the enzymes break down under -heat.}. That's why bakers opt for autolysis. The autolysis starts the enzymatic -reactions before the microorganism fermentation begins. This way after 2~hours -of autolysis (an example) and 5~hours of fermentation the dough is in the -perfect state before beginning proofing. - -When you try to mix your salt and starter into the flour/water dough you will -notice how cumbersome this is. It feels like you have to knead again from scratch -one more time. You will spend more time mixing dough. - -For that reason, I~am strongly advocating utilizing the fermentolysis approach -which greatly simplifies the mixing and kneading process. - -\section{Fermentolysis}% -\label{sec:fermentolysis} - -The fermentolysis creates the same advantageous dough properties the -autolysis creates without the headache of mixing your dough twice. You do this -by extending the fermentation time of your dough. Rather than doing a 2-hour -autolysis and 5-hour bulk fermentation you opt for an overall 7-hour -fermentation period. - -To do this, you use less sourdough starter. A conventional recipe including the -autolysis step might call for \qty{20}{\percent} sourdough starter. Simply reduce this -value to \qtyrange{5}{10}{\percent}. The other option could be to place the dough in a colder -environment and thus reduce the speed at which your microorganisms replicate. - -\begin{table}[!htb] - \centering - \input{tables/table-starter-usage-activity.tex} - \caption[Quantity of sourdough]{A table visualizing how much sourdough - starter to use depending on temperature and the starter's activity - level.} -\end{table} - -Based on my experience and my sourdough, my ideal bread always takes around 8 -to 12~hours during bulk fermentation. Based on my availability throughout the -day, I~use a higher or lower starter quantity. If I~wanted to achieve a -completed fermentation in 8~hours, I~would opt for a \qty{10}{\percent} -sourdough starter. If I~wanted it to be ready in 12~hours, I~would opt for -less starter, around \qty{5}{\percent}. Simply mix all the ingredients and -your fermentation begins. The enzymes and microorganisms commence their work. -On a very warm summer day, the mentioned quantities no longer work. With a -\qty{10}{\percent} starter, the same dough would be ready in 5~hours up to a -point of no return. Another additional hour would cause the dough to break -down too much. In this case, I~would opt for \qty{5}{\percent} sourdough -starter to slow the whole process down to reach the 8 to 12~hour window again. -If it is very hot, I~might use as little as \qty{1}{\percent} sourdough -starter\footnote{Please take these values with a grain of salt as they depend - on your flour and your sourdough starter. These are values that you have - to experiment with. After baking a couple of breads you will be able to - read your dough much better.}. You have to play with the timings on your -own. Rather than relying on timing though, I~will show you a much better and -more precise approach by using a fermentation sample. This will be covered -later in this chapter. - -Even for yeasted doughs, I~no longer use autolysis. I~just reduce the amount -of yeast that I~am using. Opting for the fermentolysis will -save you time and simplify your bread-making process. As mentioned in previous chapters, -the secret to making great bread is a slow but not too slow fermentation. - -\section{Dough strength} - -Dough strength is a fancy way to describe the bread-kneading process. As you wait and -knead, the gluten bonds in your dough become stronger. The dough -becomes more elastic and holds together better. This is the basis for trapping -all the gases during the fermentation process. Without the gluten network, -the gases would just diffuse out of your dough. - -\begin{flowchart}[!htb] -\centering - \input{figures/fig-kneading-process.tex} - \caption{The gluten development process for a wheat-based dough.}% - \label{fig:wheat-sourdough-kneading-process} -\end{flowchart} - -It might sound odd, but the most important part of kneading is waiting. By -waiting you are allowing your flour to soak up water. This way the gluten -bonds of your dough form automatically and your dough becomes more elastic. -So you could be kneading for 10~minutes initially just to be surprised -that kneading 5~minutes and waiting 15~minutes has the same effect. - -The gluten proteins glutenin and gliadin virtually instantly bond after being -hydrated. Disulfide bonds enable the longer portions of -glutenin to join with one another and form sturdy, extensible molecules. -Glutenins add strength, whilst the more compact gliadin proteins allow -the dough to flow like a fluid. Ultimately, the longer you wait, the more -your gluten network transforms into a web-like structure. This is what -traps the gases during the fermentation process~\cite{how+does+gluten+work}. - -\begin{figure}[!htb] - \centering - \input{plots/fig-yeast-sourdough-strength.tex} - \caption[Dough strength over time without kneading]{A schematic - visualization of automatic gluten development. The doughs are not - kneaded, just initially mixed. Note how dough strength deteriorates - over time as enzymes break down the flour. The effect is accelerated for - sourdough due to the bacteria's gluten proteolysis.}% - \label{fig:wheat-yeast-sourdough-degradation} -\end{figure} - -The soaking process has to be extended the more whole-wheat flour is used. -The purpose of the wheat kernel's outer bran is to soak up water as fast -as possible. The enzymes become activated and start the sprouting process. -Because of this, less water is available for the gluten bonds to develop. -Either wait a bit longer or proceed and use slightly more water for -the dough. - -This is the same principle that popular no-knead recipes follow. By making a less -hydrated dough and waiting your gluten network automatically forms. You still -have to mix and homogenize the ingredients. You wait a few minutes just to -find your dough having developed incredible dough strength with no additional -kneading\footnote{Give it a shot yourself. The automatic formation of gluten -networks is an amazing phenomenon that still fascinates me every time I~am -making dough.}. - -If you over-hydrate your dough at the beginning it becomes more difficult -for the gluten chains to form. The molecules are not as close together in -a wetter dough compared to a stiffer dough. It is harder for the molecules -to align and form the web structure. For this reason, it is always easier -to start with lower hydration and then increase the water quantity if needed. -This is also commonly known as the \emph{Bassinage method}. The gluten -bonds have formed at the lower hydration and can then be made more extensible -by adding water and kneading again. This is a great trick to make -a more extensible dough with lower-gluten flour~\cite{bassinage+technique}. - -When machine kneading a dough, opt for the same technique shown in -Flowchart~\ref{fig:wheat-sourdough-kneading-process}. Initially opt for a low -speed. This helps the homogenization process. -After waiting to allow the flour to soak up the water, proceed on a higher speed -setting. A good sign of a well-developed gluten network is -that your dough lets go of the container. This is because of the gluten's elasticity. -The elasticity is higher than the desire of the -dough to stick to the container. - -\begin{figure}[!htb] - \centering - \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{dough-strength-sourdough} - \caption[Dough strength over time with kneading]{A schematic visualization - of gluten development in sourdoughs with different kneading techniques. - A combination of techniques can be utilized to achieve maximum dough - strength.}% - \label{fig:dough-strength-sourdough} -\end{figure} -% See https://www.figma.com/file/wTUVe6Nm2INOvT82mJhQur/Dough-strength-visualisation?node-id=0%3A1&t=fjdPvXYuJpsdQfWN-1 for -% the source of this visualization - -Generally, the more dough strength you create, the less sticky your dough is going to -feel. As the dough holds together, it will no longer stick to your hands as -much. This is a common problem beginners face. Sticky dough is frequently -the sign of a not well enough developed gluten network. - -\begin{figure}[!htb] - \centering - \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{dough-surface-touchpoints} - \caption[Touching the dough surface]{A schematic visualization of how a rough - dough surface creates more touch points compared to a smooth dough - surface. By touching the rough surface the dough will swell and get into - contact with more areas of your hand.}% - \label{fig:dough-touch-points} -\end{figure} - -Kneading more is generally beneficial in almost all cases, as it results in a -stronger gluten network. However, when making soft milk breads, you might prefer -a more extensible dough from the start. In this scenario, excessive kneading -could lead to a chewier final bread, which is not desirable if you aim for a -fluffier texture. Achieving this fluffier dough can be accomplished by kneading -less. While this is an exception, properly kneading your wheat-based doughs -is generally advised. - -When you use a stand mixer, you can run into the issue of kneading too much. This -is almost impossible in practice though. Even after kneading for 30~minutes on medium -speed, my doughs hardly ever were over-kneaded. The moment you knead -too much, the color of the dough can begin to change. You mostly -notice this, though, during baking. The resulting loaf looks very -pale and white. This is because mixing dough causes oxidation, -which is necessary for the development of gluten. -However, if the dough is mixed too much, the compounds that contribute -to the bread's flavor, aroma, and color may be destroyed, negatively -affecting the quality of the bread~\cite{oxidization+dough}. - -The last step before beginning bulk fermentation is to -create a smooth dough ball. By making sure your dough's surface is -smooth, you will have fewer touch points when touching the dough. -See Figure~\ref{fig:dough-touch-points} for a schematic visualization -of how your hand touches a rugged and smooth dough. -With the smooth surface, your dough is going to stick less on your hands. Applying -later stretches and folds will be a lot easier. Without a smooth -surface, the dough becomes almost unworkable. Folding the dough later -becomes an impossible task. This is a frequent mistake I~see many -new bakers commit. - -\begin{figure}[!htb] - \centering - \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{dough-ball-steps} - \caption[Creating a smooth surface]{The transformation of a sticky dough - blob to a dough with a smooth surface. The goal is to reduce surface - touchpoints with your hands to make the dough less sticky when working - it.}% - \label{fig:dough-ball-steps} -\end{figure} - -To make the dough's surface smooth, place your dough on a wooden board or -on your kitchen's countertop. Drag the dough with your palm over the surface. -A dough scraper could be used here for assistance. -Drag the dough towards you while making sure the top center of the dough stays in place. -It can help to gently place your second hand on top of the dough so that -the dough mass moves while retaining its orientation. Once the whole dough -is too close to the edge of the container/countertop, gently move it back -with two hands. By doing so, you are stretching the outer surrounding gluten layer. -For this reason, it is important to not use any flour during this process. -By using flour, you can no longer drag the dough over the surface and thus -you can't stretch the gluten. Always imagine you are touching something utterly sticky. -By doing so you will automatically try to touch the dough as little -as possible. Keep repeating the process until you see that the dough -has a nice smooth surface. The final dough should look like the dough -shown in Figure~\ref{fig:dough-ball-steps}. - -If your outer gluten layer tears, you have overstretched your dough. In -that case, take a 10-minute break, leaving your dough on the kitchen countertop. -This allows the gluten to re-bond and heal. Repeat the same process -and the damaged rugged areas should disappear. - -The same dough-rounding technique is used later during -the pre-shaping process. After creating dough strength you -have all the time you need to practice rounding. Round the dough -as much as possible until it tears. Then wait the aforementioned 10~minutes and repeat. -Later, you don't have any room for error. Your technique has to be on point. -An over-pre-shaped dough can potentially not recover. - -\section{Bulk fermentation}% -\label{sec:bulk-fermentation} - -After mixing the starter into your dough, the next stage of -the process known as bulk fermentation begins. The term -\emph{bulk} is used because in bakeries, multiple loaves are fermented -together in bulk. If you are a home baker, you might bulk -ferment a single loaf. The bulk fermentation ends when you -divide and pre-shape, or directly shape your final loaves or loaf. - -The hardest part when making sourdough bread is controlling -the fermentation process. Bulking long enough but not too -long is the deciding factor for making great bread at home. -Even with poor shaping and baking techniques, you'll be able -to make excellent bread, solely by mastering the bulk -fermentation process. - -With a too-short bulk, your crumb will be -perceived as gummy. Your crumb will feature large pockets of -air commonly referred to as \emph{craters}. A too-long fermentation -results in the dough breaking down too much. The resulting -dough will stick to your banneton and spread while baking -into a pancake-like structure. - -The key is to find the sweet spot between not too little -and not too much bulk fermentation. I'd always recommend pushing -the dough more toward a longer fermentation. The -flavor of the resulting bread is better compared to a pale -underfermented dough. - -\begin{table}[!htb] - \centering - \input{tables/table-fermentation-effects.tex} - \caption[Stages of sourdough fermentation]{The different stages of - sourdough fermentation and the effects on crumb, alveoli, texture, - and overall taste.} -\end{table} - -The worst thing you can do when fermenting sourdough -is to rely on a recipe's timing suggestions. In \qty{99}{\percent} -of the cases, the timing will not work for you. The writer -of the recipe probably has different flour and a different -sourdough starter with different levels of activity. Furthermore, -the temperature of the fermentation environment might be -different. Just small changes in one parameter result -in a completely different timing schedule. One or two~hours' -difference results in the dough not fermenting long enough, or -turning it into a gigantic sticky fermented pancake. This -is one of the reasons why the current baking industry prefers -to make solely yeast-based doughs. By removing the bacteria -from the fermentation, the whole process becomes a lot more -predictable. The room for error (as shown in -Figure~\ref{fig:wheat-yeast-sourdough-degradation}) is much larger. The doughs -are perfect to be made in a machine. - -\begin{flowchart}[!htb] - \centering - \input{figures/fig-bulk-fermentation.tex} - \caption[Process to check the bulk fermentation]{During the bulk - fermentation, multiple doughs are fermented together in bulk. A - challenging aspect of homemade sourdough bread is to determine when this - stage of fermentation is completed. This chart shows multiple available - options to check on the bulk fermentation progress.}% - \label{fig:bulk-fermentation} -\end{flowchart} - -Experienced bakers will tell you to go by the look and feel of -the dough. While this works if you have made hundreds of loaves, -this is not an option for an inexperienced baker. As -you make more and more dough, you will be able to judge -the dough's state by touching it. - -My go-to method for beginners is to use an \emph{Aliquot jar}. -The aliquot is a sample that you extract from your dough. The -sample is extracted after creating the initial dough strength. -You monitor the aliquot's size increase to judge the -level of fermentation of your main dough. As your -dough ferments, so does the content of your aliquot jar. The moment your -sample reached a certain size, your main dough is ready -to be shaped and proofed. The size increase you should -aim for depends on the flour you have at hand. A flour -with a higher gluten content can be fermented for a -longer period. Generally, around \qty{80}{\percent} -of your wheat flour's protein is gluten. Check your flour's -packaging to see the protein percentage. The actual size increase -value is highly variable depending on your flour composition. -I~recommend beginning with a size increase of \qty{25}{\percent} and testing -up to \qty{100}{\percent} with subsequent bakes. Then identify a value -that you are happy with. - -\begin{table}[!htb] - \centering - \input{tables/table-dough-size-increase.tex} - \caption[Increase of size versus protein content]{Reference values for - how much size increase to aim for with an aliquot jar depending on - the dough's protein content.} -\end{table} - -The beauty of the aliquot is that no matter the surrounding -temperature, you will always know when your dough is ready. -While the dough might be ready in 8~hours in summer, it could -easily be 12~hours in winter. You will always ferment your -dough exactly on point. - - -\begin{figure}[!htb] - \centering - \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{aliquot-before-after} - \caption[Aliquot Jar]{An aliquot jar to monitor the dough's fermentation - progress. It took 10~hours for the dough to reach a \qty{50}{\percent} - size increase.} -\end{figure} - -While the aliquot sample has enabled me to consistently bake -great loaves, there are limitations to consider. It's crucial -to use a cylindrical-shaped container to properly judge -the dough's size increase. Furthermore, it is essential -to use room-temperature water when making your dough. If the -water is hotter, your aliquot, due to its smaller size, -will cool down faster. The aliquot will ferment more slowly -than your dough. Similarly, when you use too cold water, -your sample will heat up faster than the large dough mass. -In that case, your aliquot is ahead of your main dough. You -would probably stop the fermentation too early. Make sure -to keep the dough and aliquot close together. Some people even -place the aliquot in the same container. This makes sure that -both are in the same environment temperature. The aliquot -is also less reliable if your ambient temperature changes -a lot during the day. In that case, your aliquot will adapt -faster than your main dough. The readings will always be slightly -off. If you are making a large chunk of dough with more -than \qty{10}{\kg} of flour, the jar is also less reliable. The biochemical -reactions happening inside your dough will heat it. -The fermentation itself is exothermic which means -that it produces heat. - -Another more expensive option is to use a pH meter -to monitor your dough's fermentation state. As the lactic -and acetic acid bacteria ferment, more acidity is piled -up inside your dough. The acidity value (pH) can be -measured using such a meter. The more acidity, the lower the pH -value of your dough. The pH scale is logarithmic, meaning -that each digit change will have a 10x increase in acidity. -A sourdough dough might begin fermenting at \pHvalue{6.0}, -then shortly before baking has roughly \pHvalue{4.0}. This means -that the dough itself is 10x times 10x (= 100x) sourer -than at the beginning. By using the meter, you can always -judge the state of your dough's acidification and then act -accordingly. - -To use the pH meter successfully, you need to find pH values -that work for your dough. Depending on your starter, -water, and flour composition, the pH values to look out -for are different. A stronger flour with more gluten -can be fermented for a longer period. To find out -the pH values for your bread I~recommend taking -several measurements while making your dough. - -\begin{enumerate} - \item Measure the pH value of your sourdough starter before using it - \item Check the pH after mixing all the ingredients - \item Check the pH before dividing and pre-shaping - \item Check the pH before shaping - \item Check the pH of your dough before and after proofing - \item Check the pH of your bread after baking -\end{enumerate} - -If the bread you made turned out successfully with your values, -you can use them as a reference for your next batch. If the -bread didn't turn out the way you like, either shorten -the fermentation or extend it a little bit. - -\begin{table}[!htb] - \centering - \input{tables/table-ph-values-dough.tex}% - \caption[Dough's pH during bread preparation]{Example pH values for - the different breakpoints of my own sourdough process.}% - \label{table:sample-ph-values} -\end{table} - -The beauty of this method is its reliability. Once you have found -out your good working values, you can reproduce -the same level of fermentation with each subsequent dough. -This is especially handy for large-scale bakeries that want -to achieve consistency in each bread. - -While this method is very reliable, there are also certain -limitations to consider. - -First of all the pH values that work for me likely won't work for -you. Depending on your own starter's composition of lactic -and acetic acid bacteria, your pH values will be different. -You can use the values shown in Table~\ref{table:sample-ph-values} -as rough ballpark figures. Regardless, you need to find values -that work for your setup. - -Another limitation is the price. You will need to purchase -a high-tech pH meter, ideally, a meter featuring a spearhead -\footnote{Not every pH meter is suitable for measuring dough. -Please refer to the manual to make sure it is certified for -measuring the pH of liquid and semi-solid media. To receive -accurate pH readings further ensure that your pH meter -is properly calibrated.}. -This way you can directly poke the meter deep into the dough. -At the same time, automated temperature adjustments are a -feature to look out for. Depending on the temperature, -the pH value varies. There are tables you can use to -do the adjustment calculations. More expensive meters -have this feature built in. The pH meter loses accuracy -over time. For this reason, you need to frequently -calibrate it. The process is cumbersome and takes time. -Lastly, you need to carefully rinse the pH meter before -using it in your dough. The liquid surrounding the -head of your pH meter is not food-safe and thus should -not be eaten. I~rinse the meter for at least one minute -before using it to measure my dough's fermentation stage. - -The last method to judge the state of bulk fermentation -is to read the signs of your dough. The more bread you have -made, the more accustomed you will become to this process. -Look out for the dough's size increase. This can sometimes -be a challenge when your dough is inside a container. -You can help yourself by marking your container. Some bakers -even use a transparent rectangular bulk container. You -can use a pen to mark the initial starting point. From there -on you can nicely observe the size increase. Similar to the -mentioned aliquot sample, look out for a size increase that works -for your sourdough composition. - -\begin{figure}[!htb] - \centering - \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{bulk-finished-dough} - \caption[Dough at the end of bulk fermentation]{A dough in a good state to - finish bulk fermentation. Notice the tiny bubbles on the dough's surface. - They are a sign that the dough is inflated well enough.} -\end{figure} - -Look out for bubbles on the surface of your dough. They -are a good sign that your dough is inflated with gas. The -further you push the bulk fermentation the more bubbles -will appear. If you overdo this stage, the dough becomes leaky, and -the bubbles will disappear again. - -Take note of the dough's smell. It should match the same -smell of a ripe starter shortly before collapsing. As mentioned -before, your dough is nothing but a gigantic starter. You -can also proceed and taste your dough. It will taste like -pickled food. Depending on the acidity you can judge how -far the dough is in the fermentation process. The final bread -will taste less sour. That's because a lot of acidity evaporates -during baking\footnote{More on this topic later. -Just by baking longer and/or shorter, you can control -the tang of your final baked bread. The longer -you bake, the less sour the final loaf. The shorter, -the more acidity is still inside the bread. The resulting -loaf will be sourer.}. - -When touching the dough, it should feel tacky -on your hands. The dough should also be less sticky -compared to earlier stages. If the dough is overly -sticky, you have pushed the fermentation too far. - -If you pushed the bulk fermentation too far, you won't be able -to bake a freestanding loaf with the dough anymore. But don't -worry. You can move your dough into a loaf pan, or use parts -of the dough as the starter for your next dough. When using -a loaf pan, make sure it's properly greased. You might have -to use a spatula to transfer your dough. Allow the dough -to proof for at least 30~minutes in the loaf pan before -baking it. This makes sure that large cavities induced -by the transfer are evened out. You could push the proofing -stage to 24~hours or even 72~hours. The resulting -bread would feature an excellent, very tangy taste. - - -\section{Stretch and folds} - -\begin{figure}[!htb] - \centering - \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{dough-being-glued} - \caption[Gluing dough]{A dough where two sticky sides are being glued - together using a stretch and fold. This process creates excellent dough - strength.} -\end{figure} - -In this section, you will learn all you need to know about stretching and -folding. You will learn when to stretch and fold and how to use this technique -to your advantage. - -Stretching and folding is a set of techniques used by bakers during the bulk -fermentation stage. The process involves stretching the dough and then -folding the dough onto itself. Some recipes call for a single stretch -and fold, others for multiple. - -The primary goal of this technique is to provide additional dough strength to -your dough. As shown in Figure~\ref{fig:dough-strength-sourdough} there are -multiple ways to create dough strength\footnote{In fact I~have seen many - no-knead recipes calling for no initial kneading, but then applying - stretch and folds during the bulk fermentation. The time required to do - all the folds probably matches the initial kneading time required.}. -If you do not knead as much at the start, you can reach the same level of -dough strength by applying stretch and folds later. The more stretch and folds -you do, the more dough strength you add to your dough. The result will be a -more aesthetic loaf that has increased vertical oven spring. - -Sometimes, if the dough is very extensible -and features very high hydration, stretching and folding is essential. -Without it, the dough itself would have too little dough strength and not -spring in the oven at all. - -Another benefit of stretch and folds are their homogenization properties. By -folding the dough you are redistributing areas that are fermenting faster -than other areas. The heat in your dough is not the same in all areas. -The fermentation itself produces heat. For that reason, some of the areas in -your dough will ferment a little faster than others. This means that some -areas hold more gas and more acidity than others. Applying a stretch and fold -will redistribute heat, gas, and acidity. Some bakers also refer to this -process as crumb building. Careful folds ensure that your final dough's crumb -is not overly wild featuring large cavities. If you notice overly -large cavities in your final dough's crumb, then you might be able to fix that -by applying more stretch and folds\footnote{In many cases these cavities can -also happen when a dough does not ferment enough. The crumb is commonly called -Fool's Crumb. Refer to the later Debugging Crumb Structures chapter of this -book to learn more about it.}. Please refer to Section~\ref{sec:debugging-crumb-structure} -``\nameref{sec:debugging-crumb-structure}'' for more information on reading -your crumb. - -\begin{figure}[!htb] - \centering - \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{stretch-and-fold-steps} - \caption[Stretch and fold steps]{An overview of the steps involved to perform - stretch and folds for wheat-based doughs.}% - \label{figure:stretch-and-fold-steps} -\end{figure} - -The reason for the technique's popularity lies in its efficiency. By stretching -the dough outwards, you increase your dough's surface area. You then fold the -dough over, essentially gluing large areas of the dough together. Imagine a -piece of paper on which you place the glue. Then you fold the paper. Large areas -of the paper now stick together. Repeat the same process with more glue until -you have created multiple layers of paper and glue. This is the same thing that -happens to your dough. With only very few movements you have applied glue to your -dough. - -To apply a stretch and fold first wet your hands with cold water. Watered hands -work wonders in reducing the dough's tendency to stick to your hands. Proceed and -carefully loosen the dough from the edges of your bulk container. Do this by -carefully placing your hand at the edge of the dough and pushing your hand -downwards on the container's walls. Once you have reached the bottom, drag the dough -a little bit inwards. The dough should stay in place and not move back to the -edge of your container. Try to be as swift as possible with this motion. The -slower you are, the more dough will stick to your hands. Repeat the same process -once all around your dough until the dough is free of your container's edges. -Wet your hands one more time and then carefully lift one side of the dough with -two hands placed in the center upwards. Make a fold in the center of the dough. -The upper smooth side needs to be placed on the bottom of the container. By doing -so, you will be gluing together the two sticky bottom sides. The top smooth -side should not be sticky in your hands, while the bottom rough surface should -tend to stick to your hands. Rotate the container and repeat the same thing -from the other side. Rotate the container \ang{90} and then repeat the process -once again. Rotate the container another \ang{180} in the same direction and -repeat the fold one last time. By doing so you have applied four folds in -total. Your dough should now stay in place and resist flowing -outwards\footnote{Please also refer to~\cite{stretch+and+fold+technique} for a -video showing you how to best perform the technique.}. - -In theory, there is no limit to how often you can stretch and fold. You could -apply one every 15~minutes. If your dough has enough dough strength already, -applying additional folds is just a waste of time\footnote{You could do it -just to better understand how the dough feels in your hands at different -fermentation stages.}. If you apply a large number of consecutive folds, the -outer layer of gluten -will tear. In that case, you just have to wait for at least 5--10~minutes until -the gluten bonds heal and you can try again. When the gluten does not heal -anymore, chances are you have pushed the fermentation for too long. Likely -most of the gluten has broken down and you are already -in the decay stage shown in Figure~\ref{fig:dough-strength-sourdough}. - -\begin{figure}[!htb] - \centering - \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{dough-requiring-stretch-and-fold} - \caption[A flattened out dough]{A dough during bulk fermentation that has - flattened out. To improve its dough strength, a stretch and fold should - be applied.} -\end{figure} - -Now, the reasonable amount of stretch and folds you should do greatly depends on how much you -kneaded initially and how extensible your dough is. A good recommendation is -to observe your dough in your bulk container. Once you see that the dough -flattens out quite a lot and spreads towards the edges of your bulk container, -you can proceed and apply a stretch and fold. For \qty{95}{\percent} of the doughs -that I~am making, this is hardly more than once. I~like to make overnight -doughs and in that case, I~typically apply one stretch and fold directly after -waking up. Then the bulk fermentation might take another 2~hours before I~proceed -with dividing and pre-shaping or directly shaping. - -\section{Optional: Dividing and Preshaping} - -Dividing and pre-shaping is an optional step that is done -once your sourdough finishes with the bulk fermentation stage. -The step is required if you are making multiple loaves in one -batch. It is optional if you are making a single loaf. - -\begin{flowchart}[!htb] -\centering - \input{figures/fig-dividing-preshaping.tex} - \caption[Is dividing your dough required check]{Dividing is only required when you are - making multiple loaves in a single dough batch.}% - \label{fig:dividing-decision-tree} -\end{flowchart} - -The goal of dividing your dough into smaller pieces is to portion -your dough accordingly. This way you'll have multiple pieces of bread -which all weigh the same. For this reason, a scale is commonly -used to weigh the pieces of dough. If one piece of dough weighs -too little you can simply cut a bit more from your dough blob -to increase its weight. - -When cutting the dough, try to be as concise as possible with your -movements. You don't want to unnecessarily damage your dough too much. -Quick movements with a knife or dough scraper help to prevent the -dough from sticking too much to your tools. - -\begin{figure}[!htb] - \centering - \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{divide-preshape} - \caption{The steps of dividing and preshaping your dough.} -\end{figure} - -I~sometimes like to draw small lines with the dough scraper's edge -on the large dough mass before cutting it into smaller pieces. -This helps me to better plan where I~want to do my incisions. When -I~plan to make 8~loaves I~try to use the lines to divide the dough -into 8 equally sized portions before cutting. If this is not precise enough, -you can use the aforementioned scale. - -Now that you have cut your dough, the resulting chunks are not in an equal shape. -This is problematic for the next stage when you are shaping your dough. -The resulting loaves wouldn't look nice and even. You would probably -end up with areas that tear the moment you are shaping your dough. -You wouldn't start the whole proofing process on a good foundation. For that -reason, you need to pre-shape your dough. - -Pre-shaping is done for several reasons: -\begin{itemize} - \item You divided your dough and require pre-shaping - \item Your dough lacks dough strength. Pre-shaping will add more strength - \item You want to even out the final loaf's crumb structure. By pre-shaping, - the resulting crumb will look more even. -\end{itemize} - -If you are making a single loaf from one dough batch the step is not required. -In that case, you can directly proceed with shaping, skipping this step. - -The pre-shaping technique is the same as the process -Figure~\ref{fig:dough-ball-steps}. Whereas earlier you could tear the dough's -surface this could now result in a catastrophe. For this reason, I~recommend -practicing this step for as long as you need after kneading. The gluten -network might be so extensible and degraded at this point that there is hardly -any room for error. The dough wouldn't come together again. The only way to -save such dough is to use a loaf pan. - -\begin{figure}[!htb] - \centering - \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{preshape-direction} - \caption[Dragging direction]{Drag the dough in the direction of the rough - surface area. This way you minimize the movements required to complete - the step.}% - \label{fig:preshape-direction} -\end{figure} - -Pre-shape the dough as much as is needed to round up the top surface area. Try -to touch the dough as little as possible to reduce its ability to stick to -your hands. Drag the dough in the direction where you see a rough surface -area. In case you have too little space to drag the dough because it might -fall from the edge of your counter, simply lift it with a swift movement and -place it in a better position for pre-shaping. Please refer to -Figure~\ref{fig:preshape-direction} for a visualization showing the -pre-shaping direction. - -Try to set yourself a limit of movements to finish pre-shaping -a dough. Then you will be more conscious about each movement -you are performing. At the start you can try 5 movements, -iteratively reducing this to 3. The only reason for exceeding these -numbers could be if you on purpose want to even out the crumb -structure of your final loaves further. - -\begin{figure}[!htb] - \centering - \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{preshaped-dough} - \caption{Baguette doughs resting after preshaping.}% - \label{fig:dough-after-preshaping} -\end{figure} - -Once you finished pre-shaping allow the dough balls to rest -on your counter for at least 10--15~minutes. Do not -cover the pre-shaped balls. By drying out the surface, -the following shaping step will be easier. The dried-out surface -will not stick to your hands as much. As -you tightened the dough's gluten you will need to -allow it to relax. Without a resting period, you wouldn't -be able to shape your dough into, for instance, a baguette-like structure. -The dough would resist each movement -always springing back into the previous shape. You -might have noticed this before, when making pizza dough. If you -don't wait long enough after balling the pizzas, it's impossible -to stretch the pizza. By waiting a few more minutes, -stretching becomes a lot easier. The dough will not resist -being transformed into the final shape that you like. - -The aforementioned 10--15~minutes bench rest time depends -on how strongly you pre-shaped your dough. The more -you pre-shape the longer you need to wait. If your dough -resists a lot during shaping, extend this period up to 30~minutes. -If you wait too long, your dough's surface area can become too dry, -resulting in the dough tearing during shaping. As always, please -take these timings with a grain of salt and experiment in -your environment. - -\section{Shaping} - -\begin{flowchart}[!htb] -\centering - \input{figures/fig-shaping-process.tex} - \caption[Sourdough shaping process]{A schematic visualization of the shaping process - including checks for an overfermented dough.}% - \label{fig:shaping-decision-tree} -\end{flowchart} - -Shaping will give your dough the final shape before baking. After -completing shaping, your dough proceeds to the proofing stage and -will then be scored and ultimately baked. - -There are countless shaping techniques. The technique to choose -depends on the type of bread you want to make. Some techniques -are gentler on the dough, making sure that the dough does not -degas. Other techniques are faster but degas the dough a little -more. The tighter you shape, the more evened out your final dough's -crumb structure will look. At the same time, a tighter shaping-technique -will improve your dough's strength. More strength will ultimately result -in more vertical oven spring. - -The following instructions assume that you want to make a batard-style -bread featuring an oblong shape. Learning this technique -will provide you with a solid knowledge foundation that -can easily be extended to make bread rolls or baguettes. - -Mastering the challenging shaping technique will likely take you -multiple attempts. You only have a single attempt per dough, though. If you -make a mistake, the final bread is likely not going to turn out as good -as it could. If this technique causes you a headache, I~recommend making -a larger batch of dough and dividing and preshaping it into -smaller portions. Instead of making a large batard, practice making miniature -batard bread rolls. - -\subsection[Flouring the surface]{Apply flour to the dough's surface.} - -\begin{figure}[!htb] - \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{step-1-flour-applied} - \caption[Step 1 of shaping process]{A dough that has flour applied to its - surface. This is the first step of the shaping process.}% - \label{fig:shaping-flour-surface} -\end{figure} - -If you are only making one loaf out of your dough, apply flour -generously to the top layer of your dough. Rub the flour onto your -dough with your hands. Flip over your container. Wait a little bit -to allow the dough to release itself from the container. Proceed -with step~3. - -If you divided and pre-shaped, apply flour generously to the dough's -top layer as well. With gentle hands spread the flour evenly across -the dough's surface. See Figure~\ref{fig:shaping-flour-surface} for a -visual representation of how your dough should look after coating -the surface. - -\subsection[Flipping the dough]{Flip the dough over} - -\begin{figure}[!htb] - \centering - \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{step-2-flipped-over} - \caption[Step 2 of shaping process]{A flipped-over dough. Note how the - sticky side is facing you while the floured side is facing the - countertop. The sticky side is used as glue to hold the dough together.} -\end{figure} - -With gentle hands, carefully remove the dough from the surface. If -you possess a dough scraper, carefully tuck it under the dough with -rapid movements. Flip the dough over, making sure that the floured -areas are in contact with your hands. The non-floured bottom area that was -stuck to the counter is a no-touch zone. Try to avoid touching it -as it is rough and thus will stick to your hands. - -Gently proceed and place the dough with the previously top-facing side -on your counter. The floured area is now on the surface, whereas the -sticky side is facing you. - -\subsection[Create rectangular shape]{Make the dough rectangular} - -\begin{figure}[htb!] - \centering - \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{step-3-rectangular} - \caption[Step 3 of shaping process]{A flipped-over dough. Note how the - sticky side is facing you while the floured side is facing the - countertop.}% - \label{fig:shaping-rectangular-dough} -\end{figure} - -You should be facing the sticky side of your dough now. Note how -the dough is currently round and not rectangular. The circular -shape will not be ideal when shaping the oblong batard. - -For this reason, proceed and stretch the dough a little bit until -it has a more rectangular shape. While stretching, make sure to touch -the sticky side as little as possible. Place your hands on the bottom -floured side and the edge of the sticky side. With gentle hands, -stretch the dough until the shape in front of you looks rectangular. -Refer to Figure~\ref{fig:shaping-rectangular-dough} and compare -your dough with the shown dough. - -\subsection[Folding]{Fold the dough together} - -\begin{figure}[htb!] - \centering - \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{step-4-folding} - \caption[Step 4 of shaping process]{The process of folding a batard. Note - how the rectangle is first glued together and then rolled inwards to - create a dough roll. Ultimately the edges are sealed to create a more - uniform dough.}% - \label{fig:shaping-folding} -\end{figure} - -Now that you have created the rectangular shape, your dough -is ready to be folded together. This only works because the side -facing you is sticky. Because of the dough's stickiness, -we can effectively glue it together, creating a very -strong bond. - -You can practice this step with a piece of rectangular paper. -Once you mastered folding on paper you can easily apply -this to your real-life dough. - -Make sure the batard is placed in front of you. Take the side -that faces you and fold it into the middle of the dough. Carefully -tuck it down so that it glues together with the sticky side. - -Take the other side and fold it over the side you just folded. -Stretch the dough as much as possible towards you. Tuck it down -on the edge, creating your first glue layer. - -Rotate the dough so that it is aligned lengthwise in front of you. -Rotate the dough inwards so that the seam side -now faces you. - -Start to roll the dough inwards beginning at the top of the dough. -Keep rolling the dough inwards until you have created a dough roll. - -Refer to Figure~\ref{fig:shaping-folding} for a full visual -representation of the process. - -If your dough does not hold its shape, chances are you have pushed -the fermentation too far. Most of the gluten has been degraded -and the dough won't be able to hold its shape. In this case, -the best option is to use a loaf pan to bake your bread. The -final bread will taste amazing but not offer the same texture -a freestanding bread would offer. Please refer to -Section~\ref{sec:debugging-crumb-structure} for more -details on how to properly read your dough's crumb structure. - -\subsection[Sealing]{Sealing the edges} - -Your dough has finished shaping now. Sealing the edges -is an optional step. I~like to do it because, in my opinion, -the final baked bread will look a little bit nicer without -any rough edges. - -Gently pull together the swirl-like-looking edges of your dough -with two fingers. Rotate the dough and then repeat the same process -from the other side as well. - -\subsection[Proofing preparation]{Prepare for proofing} - -\begin{figure}[htb!] - \centering - \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{step-6-prepare-proofing} - \caption[Step 5 of shaping process]{The shaped dough is ready for proofing - in the banneton. Note how the seam side is now facing you. The floured - previous top side is facing downwards.}% - \label{fig:shaping-prepare-proofing} -\end{figure} - -You should have a beautifully shaped dough in front of you now. -The proofing stage is about to start. To simplify later -scoring and to make sure your dough won't stick to your banneton, -apply another flour rub to the dough's surface. This -will dry out the surface and reduce the dough's tendency -to stick to everything. - -For the coating, I~recommend using the same flour you used -to make your dough. Rice flour is only recommended if you -want to apply artistic scoring patterns later. It is better -to use more flour than too little flour. Excess flour can be -brushed off later. - -Once your dough has been coated, it is ready to be placed on your banneton. -If you do not have a banneton, you can use a bowl -with a kitchen towel inside. - -The currently top-facing floured surface will be downwards-facing in your banneton. -By doing so the banneton can be flipped -over before baking, releasing the dough\footnote{The same -applies when making other doughs such as baguette doughs. The floured -surface will always be downwards facing. The dough is then flipped over -once for baking.}. - -Proceed and lift the dough with both hands from the counter. Gently rotate it -once and then place the dough in your banneton for proofing\footnote{The seam - side should now be facing you. Some bakers like to seal the seam a little - more. I~did not notice that this improves the dough's strength. As far as - I~can tell, this only improves the visual appearance of the bottom side of - the final loaf.}. -If you did everything right, then your dough should look somewhat similar to -the dough shown in Figure~\ref{fig:shaping-prepare-proofing}. As the last -step of shaping, place a kitchen towel over your banneton or bowl and begin -proofing. - -\section{Proofing} - -In bread baking, proofing refers to the final rise of dough before baking, -after it has been shaped into a loaf. The chemical reactions and processes -that occur during bulk fermentation and proofing are the same. - -By shaping your dough, it has lost some of the air previously generated -throughout the bulk fermentation. The goal of proofing is to inflate -the dough again. A dough without proofing wouldn't offer the same texture -as a properly proofed dough. The proofed dough features a very fluffy -and soft crumb. - -There are two proofing techniques. One strategy is to proof the dough -at room temperature whereas the other proofs the dough in the fridge. -Fridge-proofing is also commonly known as retarding. - -Some bakers claim that cold-proofing improves the final flavor of the bread. -In all the loaves that I~retarded I~could not tell a difference -in terms of flavor for cold-proofed doughs. The microorganisms work -at a slower rate at colder temperatures. But I~doubt that they alter -their biochemical processes. More research is needed on the topic -of retarding and flavor development. - -\begin{flowchart}[!htb] -\centering - \input{figures/fig-proofing-process.tex} - \caption[Sourdough proofing process]{A schematic overview of the different steps of - the sourdough proofing process. The proofing technique to choose depends - on your availability and schedule.}% - \label{fig:proofing-process} -\end{flowchart} - -To me, the sole purpose of cold-proofing is its ability to allow you to better -manage the timing of the whole process. Assuming you finished shaping your -dough at 10 pm, chances are you wouldn't want to wait for another 2~hours to -proof the dough and then another hour to bake it. In this case, you can move -your dough directly to the fridge after shaping. Your dough will be proofing -overnight in the fridge. Then it can be baked at any time the following day -(there are a few exceptions; more on that later). This is especially handy -for large-scale bakeries that use fridge-proofing extensively. Some of the -doughs are proofed a day before and placed in the fridge. Early in the -morning, they can be baked directly out of the fridge. Within 2~hours they -will be ready to sell the first bread to morning customers. If throughout the -day more bread is needed, they simply take some proofed dough out of the -fridge and bake it. The time frame in which you can bake retarded dough is -big. It can be as little as 6~hours later up to 24~hours later. - -Assuming you made an overnight dough and your dough is ready in the morning, -the situation might be different. You potentially want to bake the dough directly -for breakfast, or at lunchtime. In this case, you wouldn't want to proof the dough for -another 6~hours in the fridge. Room temperature-proofing is your technique -of choice. - -To summarize, choose the technique that works for you depending on your -schedule and availability. - -\subsection{Room temperature-proofing} - -The easiest and most reliable way to proof your dough is to proof the dough at -room temperature. It is my method of choice if my schedule allows it. This method -works great if you make an overnight dough and then proof it the next -morning. - -\begin{figure}[htb!] - \centering - \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{step-13-finger-poke-test} - \caption[The finger poke test]{The finger poke test is a very reliable - method to check if your dough has been properly proofed. If the induced - dent is still visible one minute later, your dough can be baked.}% - \label{fig:shaping-finger-poke} -\end{figure} - -The time it takes to proof your dough can be anything between 30~minutes and -3~hours. Rather than relying on timing, most bakers use the finger poke test. - -Flour your thumb and gently press around \qtyrange{0.5}{1}{cm} deep into the -dough. Try this directly after shaping. You will notice that the created dent -will recover quickly. It will be gone again after one minute. - -As you proceed with proofing, your dough will fill up with more gas. At the -same time, the dough will become more extensible. Once it starts to reach the -right amount of fluffiness and extensibility, the dent will disappear more -slowly. Once the dough is ready for scoring and baking the dent should still -be visible after one minute of waiting. - -I~recommend performing the finger poke test once every 15~minutes throughout -the proofing stage. Realistically, based on my experience, proofing takes at least -one hour and can sometimes take up to 3~hours. Even at warmer temperatures proofing -has never been faster than an hour for me. As always please take my timings with -a grain of salt and experiment on your own. - -Once I~see that the dough is getting close to perfect proofing, I~proceed and -preheat my oven. This way I~don't overproof the dough. You would notice an -over-proofed dough when the dough suddenly becomes very sticky. At the same -time, the dough is likely to collapse during baking and will not spring back. -Generally, it is better to end proofing too early rather than too late. - -\subsection{Cold-proofing (retarding)} - -The second proofing option is to place your dough inside the fridge for -proofing. This option is great if you do not want to bake the dough -within the next 3~hours. - -The dough will initially proof at the same rate as the room temperature dough. -As the dough cools down the rate of fermentation slows. Ultimately at below -\qty{4}{\degreeCelsius} (\qty{40}F) the fermentation comes to a halt\footnote{The actual temperature -depends on the bacteria and yeast you cultivated in your sourdough -starter.}. The dough can rest in the fridge for up to 24~hours. In some -experiments, the dough was still good even 48~hours later. Interestingly, -there is a limit to fridge proofing. I~can only explain this with continuous -fermentation activity at low temperatures. - -The hard part is to judge when the dough is finished proofing in your fridge. -The previously mentioned finger poke test does not work on cold dough. Low -temperatures change the dough's elasticity. The dent from the poke test -will never recover. - -For this reason, finding the best fridge-proofing time is best done -with an iterative approach. Begin with 8~hours on your first dough, -10~hours on the second, 12~hours on the third, and so on up to 24~hours. -As the temperature in your fridge is typically constant, you have an -environment in which you can rely on timings. Find the ideal proofing -time that works for you. - -One additional consideration is the dough's core temperature before -placing it inside the fridge. The warmer your dough is initially -the longer it takes for the dough to cool down. This is an additional -variable to take into consideration when choosing the retarding time. -In summer times when my kitchen is hot, I~choose a shorter fridge-proofing -time compared to winter times when the dough is colder. - -A reliable way to ensure consistent proofing is to opt for using a pH -meter. By checking the amount of piled-up acidity you can ensure -each of your doughs has the right amount of acidity. Opt for an iterative -approach and check the pH for multiple proofing times. Find the pH -value that creates the best bread for you. Once you have identified -your perfect pH value you can resort to that number on all following -doughs. See Table~\ref{table:sample-ph-values} for some sample pH values -to follow. - -\section{Scoring} - -Once your dough is done proofing, it's time to warm up your oven -to around \qty{230}{\degreeCelsius} (\qty{446}{\degF}). The next step is then -to proceed with scoring your dough. - -Scoring is done for two reasons. There is functional and decorative -scoring. Functional scoring refers to making a small incision in the dough -through which it rises while baking. If the dough is not scored, -it would likely crack open at the weakest spots where you sealed -the dough after shaping. Decorative scoring can be used to apply -artistic patterns to your dough and make it more appealing. When -you want to apply artistic scoring, it is best to rub your dough -with additional rice flour before scoring. The white rice flour -greatly boosts the contrast of the scoring incisions and thus -makes the final pattern look more visually appealing. - -\begin{figure}[htb!] - \centering - \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{the-ear} - \caption[Bread's ear]{The ear is a characteristic that can be achieved on - wheat sourdough when fermenting and scoring your dough with the perfect - technique. It offers additional flavor and great texture when eating the - bread.}% - \label{fig:the-ear} -\end{figure} - -When using a banneton, the dough is flipped over and -placed on an oven rack, tray, stone, steel, or dutch oven. The pros -and cons of the different baking options are covered in the next chapter. -The dough's top side which was previously at the bottom of the -banneton should now be facing you. - -\begin{figure}[htb!] - \centering - \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{artistic-scoring} - \caption[Artistic scoring]{A loaf by Nancy~Anne featuring an artistic - scoring pattern. The high contrast was achieved by rubbing the dough's - surface with rice flour before baking. Her Instagram account - \texttt{simply.beautiful.sourdough} is specialized to showcase beautiful - artistic scoring patterns.}% - \label{fig:artistic-scoring} -\end{figure} - -The scoring cut is done at a \ang{45}~angle relative to the dough's -surface slightly off the dough's center. With the \ang{45}~angle cut -the overlaying side will rise more in the oven than the other side. -This way you will achieve a so-called \emph{ear} on the final bread. -The ear is a thin crisp edge that offers intriguing texture -when eating. The thin edge is typically a bit darker after baking -and thus offers additional flavor. In my opinion, the ear turns -a good loaf into a great loaf. - -\begin{figure}[htb!] - \centering - \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{bread-scoring-angle} - \caption[Scoring angle]{The \ang{45}~angle at which you score the - dough is relative to the surface of the dough. When scoring more towards - the side, you have to adjust the angle to achieve the ear on your - bread.}% - \label{fig:scoring-angle} -\end{figure} - -The actual incision is done with a very sharp knife, or better, a razor -blade. You can use the razor blade directly or attach it to a chopstick. -The razor blade offers better flexibility than the sharp knife. -Regardless, the blade should be as sharp as possible. This way when cutting, -the dough is not torn and instead features a clean, non ragged incision. - -To simplify scoring, your dough's surface must be dried out a little bit. -This way it is a lot easier to make the incision. -For this reason, it is crucial to rub your dough with a bit of flour -before placing it in the banneton. The dry flour will absorb some of the -moisture of the outer layers of your dough. This is especially important -when working with room temperature-proofed doughs. A cold-proofed dough -is a lot easier to score due to the dough's low viscosity. The room-temperature -dough is a lot harder to score. The scoring incision tears a lot -easier. With a ragged incision, the dough is not as likely to properly -rise in the oven. Chances are you will not achieve the previously mentioned -ear. For this reason, drying out the surface is especially important. Scoring -will become a lot easier. - -\begin{figure}[htb!] - \centering - \includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{dry-dough-surface} - \caption[Drying the dough surface]{By applying flour to your dough's surface - after shaping, the outer part of the dough dries out a little bit. This - makes scoring a lot easier as the incision is less likely to tear.}% - \label{fig:dried-out-dough-scoring} -\end{figure} - - -Scoring requires a lot of practice. For this reason, I~recommend -practicing making the incision after creating dough strength. The dough -is going to be very wet and sticky. You can use a sharp knife or razor -blade to practice the technique. Wait a few minutes and then round -up the dough again. You can practice this for as long as you like -until you are happy with your technique. After proofing, you only -have a single chance to practice scoring. It's either hit or miss. - -An additional trick that can help you to combine the benefits -of room temperature-proofing and easy cold-proofing scoring -is to place your dough in the freezer for 30~minutes before baking. -Once you notice your dough is almost done proofing, move it to the -freezer. The freezer will dry out the dough's surface even further -while also lowering its viscosity, making scoring easier. - -Another interesting trick is to bake your dough for 30~seconds without steam. -The hot air will dry out the dough's surface even further and simplify -the scoring technique. Experiment with the timing to identify your personal -sweet spot.