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317 lines
14 KiB
TeX
317 lines
14 KiB
TeX
\chapter{Mix-ins}%
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\label{ch:mix-ins}
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\begin{quoting}
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In this chapter, you will learn about the fascinating world of sourdough
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mix-ins. Discover how these additions can elevate your bread, enhancing
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flavor, adding vibrant colors, and creating delightful textures that make
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each loaf a culinary masterpiece.
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\end{quoting}
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\begin{figure}[htb!]
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\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{pumpkin-sourdough}
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\caption[Pumpkin sourdough softbuns]{These soft pull-apart sourdough
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buns have been made with the addition of pumpkin purée. The mashed pumpkin
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adds flavor and hydration to the dough.}%
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\end{figure}
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A loaf of wheat sourdough has a very pure aesthetic. Good craftsmanship and
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precision transform the ingredients into simple, but delicious food. With
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mix-ins, the basic recipe can become the starting point for a whole world of
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modifications to try and combine. Think of the loaf of bread as a blank canvas
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to express yourself.
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\section{Categories}
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\begin{figure}[htb!]
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\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{pumpkin-on-flour}
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\caption[Pumpkin puré]{A common mix-in technique is to replace some of
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the dough's water with another liquid. In this case, puréd pumpkin replaced
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some of the water. When adding puré to the dough only slowly add
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additional water as the puré slowly releases additional water to the
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dough.}%
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\end{figure}
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One approach to categorizing the mixins is to look at their respective shape.
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However, the transition between these categories is somewhat fuzzy:
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\begin{itemize}
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\item Liquids: Integrate homogeneously into the dough, may replace some of
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or all of the water. Examples: Milk, butter, oil, spinach juice, tomato
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juice, eggs
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\item Powders: Integrate homogeneously into the dough, may replace some of
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the flour. Examples: Milk powder, semolina, cocoa, spices
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\item Small bits: Individually visible in the final loaf, small enough to
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distribute somewhat evenly throughout the dough. Examples: Seeds (wheat
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berries, rye berries, poppy seeds, sesame, pumpkin seeds,
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flax seeds), whole spices (coriander)
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\item Chunks: Larger pieces that will only be present in the occasional bite
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when eating a slice of your bread. Examples: dried tomatoes, chunks of
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cheese, chunks of chocolate
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\end{itemize}
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Another categorization approach looks at the changes to the bread:
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\begin{itemize}
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\item Flavor: Significantly changes the taste of the bread. Examples: rye
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flour, corn flour, spices, sugar.
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\item Color: Significantly changes the look of the bread. Examples: cocoa,
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squid ink, beetroot juice, tomato juice.
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\item Texture: Significantly changes the feeling in the mouth when eaten.
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Examples: Cheese (gummy), seeds (crunchy), olives (squishy chunks).
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\end{itemize}
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Many of the above-listed mix-ins can't be pinpointed to a single category. They
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change multiple aspects of the final bread at the same time.
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\begin{figure}[htb!]
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\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{seeded-sourdough}
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\caption[Seeded sourdough]{In this case a combination of flax, sunflower and
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sesame was added to the dough. The seeds will slightly dehydrate the dough
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during fermentation and thus adding a bit more water (\qtyrange{1}{2}{\percent}) is advised.}%
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\end{figure}
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Mix-ins affect the structure of the dough. One aspect is the impact on
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hydration. Some mix-ins absorb a lot of water when added to the dough, so you
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have to increase the amount of water to achieve the same dough consistency.
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The other impact is on the gluten network. Bits and chunks disrupt the gluten
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network and may reduce oven spring during baking. All of this depends on the amount of mix-ins
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used. A good rule of thumb is to add \qtyrange{10}{20}{\percent} of the amount
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of flour in most mix-ins, reduced to around \qtyrange{1}{5}{\percent} of the
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amount of flour for spices.
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An important factor is also the mix-in's behavior during baking. Particularly
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chunks may bake differently than dough, and either melt (cheese) leaving holes
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inside, or char when peeking through the crust (\eg~vegetables). These
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problems can be mitigated to some degree with the right preparation (\eg~chopping
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into smaller pieces, soaking dry ingredients in water or oil first,
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or squeezing out excess moisture).
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\section{Examples}
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The following is a list of common mix-ins and their peculiarities. They can be
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combined depending on your preference.
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\subsection{Flours}
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These are powders. Usually, you want to just replace some fraction of the
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regular bread flour. Different flours change the taste of the bread and
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usually moderately affect the color.
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\begin{figure}[htb!]
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\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{broa}
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\caption[Broa de milho]{Broa de milho is a traditional Portuguese bread
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made out of half rye and half corn flour.}%
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\end{figure}
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\begin{itemize}
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\item Whole wheat flour (substitute any amount, makes the bread taste more
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complex, nutty)
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\item Rye flour (very hearty, nutty, malty taste)
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\item Enzymatic malt (malty taste, improves enzymatic activity). The malt is
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a great addition when making quicker yeast-based doughs.
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\item Semolina (supports Mediterranean flavors)
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\item Cocoa (replace \qty{10}{\percent} of the flour for a black loaf, goes
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great with sweet toppings)
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\item Other non-wheat flours such as: Chickpea, corn, hemp, potato\dots{}
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\end{itemize}
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\subsection{Liquids}
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Instead of using water, you can substitute it with a different liquid,
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affecting taste and texture.
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\begin{figure}[htb!]
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\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{beer-bread}
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\caption[Stout beer bread]{Dark hearty stouts work excellently as a water replacement
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when making sourdough bread. The resulting loaf features a hearty malty taste}%
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\end{figure}
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\begin{itemize}
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\item Beer
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\item Butter
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\item Buttermilk
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\item Cereal milk (the leftover milk from eating cereals)
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\item Coffee
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\item Eggs
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\item Fruit/vegetable juices (also see Section~\ref{section:colors})
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\item Milk (for sweet, soft breads)
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\item Milk alternatives such as: Almond, oat, soy\dots{}
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\item Mashed potatoes
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\item Mashed sweet potatoes. Bolo do caco is a typical bread from Madeira,
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made from \qty{50}{\percent} wheat flour and \qty{50}{\percent} mashed potatoes.
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\item Olive oil (Mediterranean)
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\item Other mashed vegetables such as: Beets, pumpkin\dots{}
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\end{itemize}
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\subsection{Colors}%
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\label{section:colors}
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Some mix-ins will change the color and flavor of your bread. Common colorings
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include:
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\begin{itemize}
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\item Activated charcoal powder (black)
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\item Beetroot juice (red)
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\item Blueberry juice (blue)
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\item Blue butterfly pea flower powder (blue)
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\item Carrot juice (orange)
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\item Pear juice (pink)
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\item Spinach juice (green)
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\item Squid ink (black)
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\item Strawberry juice (red)
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\item Tomato juice (red)
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\end{itemize}
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\subsection{Seeds and nuts}
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These are small bits, with some almost crossing into the chunk category. Some
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seeds benefit from being boiled for about 10~minutes before adding them to the
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dough.
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\begin{figure}[htb!]
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\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{stollen-close-up}
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\caption[Stollen closeup]{The Stollen is a traditional German sweet Christmas
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bread featuring a variety of mix-ins. The dough typically contains candied lemon,
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candied orange, and raisins. The mix-ins are soaked in rum before being added to
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the dough. While the stollen matures after baking (up to \num{6} months) the candied ingredients release
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their aroma to the baked product.}%
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\end{figure}
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\begin{itemize}
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\item Cacao nibs
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\item Chia seed
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\item Chopped or whole nuts such as: Almonds, hazelnuts and walnuts
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\item Flaxseeds
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\item Hemp seed
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\item Poppy seed
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\item Pumpkin seed
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\item Sesame
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\item Sunflower seed
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\item Whole rye berries (boil 10 minutes)
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\item Whole wheat berries (boil 10 minutes)
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\end{itemize}
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\begin{figure}[htb!]
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\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{seeds-bread}
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\caption[Whole-rye with rye berries]{A sourdough bread made with half whole-rye flour and half rye berries. The
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berries are typically boiled for 10~minutes to allow them to soften a bit. When baking a loaf
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it is advised to use a thermometer to measure whether it is done baking. The final bread
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features a hearty tangy flavor and has a moist crumb.}%
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\end{figure}
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\subsection{Spices and flavor mix-ins}
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These are mostly powders or small bits.
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\begin{itemize}
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\item Blueberry skins (press through a sieve to remove juice), raw
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blueberries
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\item Browned onions
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\item Candied fruits such as: Lemon, orange, pineapple\dots{}
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\item Cinnamon
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\item Grated hard cheese such as: Gruyère, parmesan\dots{}
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\item Mediterranean herbs such as: Marjoram, oregano, rosemary, thyme\dots{}
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\item Miso
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\item Molasses
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\item Sugar
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\item Spices such as: Anise, fennel, cinnamon, coriander, cumin\dots{}
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\item Zests such as: Lime, Lemon, orange\dots{}
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\end{itemize}
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\subsection{Highlights}
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Mostly chunks, that add a big contrast and flavorful highlight to the basic
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bread. Usually, you want to use only one (or a maximum of two) of these. The suggestions
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can often be complemented by some flavor or flour mix-in.
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\begin{itemize}
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\item Chocolate chunks or drops
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\item Chunks of black garlic
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\item Chunks of cheese such as: Cheddar, feta\dots{}
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\item Cornflakes
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\item Dried fruits such as: Cranberries, dates, raisins\dots{}
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\item Olives
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\item Pickled pepperoni
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\item Sun-dried tomatoes (squeeze out the oil if using pickled ones, or soak
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dried ones in water)
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\end{itemize}
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\subsection{Combinations}
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A few combinations where multiple mix-ins complement each other:
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\begin{itemize}
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\item Butter and milk. Then add cinnamon and brown sugar before shaping
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\item Cheddar and pepperoni
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\item Cheddar and jalapeño
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\item Cocoa, cacao nibs, whole hazelnuts
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\item Cranberry and walnuts
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\item Semolina, Mediterranean herbs, olives, sun-dried tomatoes
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\item Tomato juice instead of water with \qty{20}{\percent} rye flour
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\end{itemize}
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\section{Techniques}
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Adding mix-ins to the dough is just the simplest approach. Add the mix-ins
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directly when you knead the dough. After the first kneading wait for 30 minutes to see
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if the dough has enough or too much water. In the case of whole-soaked berries
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(\eg~rye or wheat) chances are that the berries will release some water and make the dough
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wetter. In this case, you will want to add a bit more flour to the dough to
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compensate for the high hydration.
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\subsection{Adding before shaping}
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\begin{figure}[htb!]
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\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{apple-swirl}
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\caption[Apple swirl buns]{A great technique is to add some of your mix-ins
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directly before shaping. In this case, a mixture of apples, cinnamon and brown
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sugar was applied. Proceed and roll the dough together. Afterward cut the roll
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into smaller pieces using a sharp knife, dough scraper or dental floss. Place
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each piece of dough next to each other in a greased bowl to allow them to be proofed.
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Proceed and bake as you would normally do. The benefit of this technique is that
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the mix-ins will not be fermented. This is typically required in the case of sugar
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since you want the final baked goods to feature sweetness. If included upon
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initial mixing most of the sugar would be fermented and the bread would not taste sweet.}%
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\end{figure}
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Another approach is to lay the dough out flat after the bulk fermentation.
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Then using a spatula spread your ingredient over the flat dough. Continue with
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your regular shaping and/or roll up the dough. When creating a roll you can
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use a sharp knife to cut the dough, dental floss works great too. Afterward,
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place the tiny swirls in a container to let them proof and become fluffier. This is an
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excellent way to add sweet mixins as the microbes will not ferment them. When
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adding sugar to the initial dough it will be fermented and the resulting dough
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will not taste sweet (depending on the fermentation duration). This approach
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is excellent for garlic/cheese rolls, garlic/herb rolls, and cinnamon rolls
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\subsection{Covering the surface}
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\begin{figure}[htb!]
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\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{surface-seeds}
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\caption[Surface seeds]{These are chop buns which are created by chopping
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up a retarded dough into smaller pieces before baking. Then each piece of
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dough is quickly dumped in water and then rolled in a bowl of seeds.
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Afterward, the dough is directly baked in the preheated oven. These
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coverings add superb additional flavor and can be adjusted depending on
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your preference. I love adding a mixture of sunflower, flax, and
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sesame seeds.}%
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\end{figure}
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This works best for either powders or small bits. After shaping wrap your
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coverings on the dough's surface. This works great too when covering your
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banneton or loaf pan with seeds or oats. When using a loaf pan or banneton
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these coverings also help to make the container stick less.
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Another approach commonly used with buns is to wet the surface or dump the
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dough in water. Afterward, dip the wetted piece of dough into your bowl of
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mixins. This does not work for all mix-ins, as some can't handle the high temperatures
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during baking and char. Most commonly done with seeds (\eg~sesame, oats, flax-seed).
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\subsection{Swirled colors}
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Mix-ins that change the color of the dough bring the opportunity for even more
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creativity by merging the dough before shaping.
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Proceed and separate your base dough before adding a colorful ingredient. Bulk
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ferment the dough in separate containers. Then Combine the two (or
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more) differently colored doughs by laminating and stacking the colored sheets
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of dough before the last folding, just before shaping. This way the colored
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layers won't mix and the resulting dough will have differently colored and
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tasting layers\footnote{I once made an experimental dough by merging a wheat,
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rye, spelt and einkorn dough into a single dough. The resulting dough was
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layered featuring different colors, textures, and flavors.}.
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