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766 lines
36 KiB
TeX
\begin{quoting}
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You could consider this chapter as an FAQ about most problems faced by
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bakers, it should give you the debugging tools you need to analyze the
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situation. You can then apply the appropriate measures and squash each
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\emph{bug} one by one until you reach the perfect loaf.
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\end{quoting}
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\section{Starter}
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\subsection{My starter does not double in size}
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Some bakers call for the sourdough starter to
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double in size before using it.
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The idea is to use the sourdough starter at
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peak performance to ensure a
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balanced fermentation in the main dough.
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The doubling in size metric should be
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taken with a grain of salt when judging
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your starter. Depending on the flour
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you use to feed the starter, different levels
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of its rising can be expected.
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For instance, if you use rye flour then only
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very little gas from the
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fermentation can be retained inside the
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starter. In consequence, your
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sourdough starter will not rise as much. It
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could still be in healthy shape. If you use wheat flour with less gluten,
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the starter will not rise as
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much either. The reason is that you have a weaker
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gluten network resulting in
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more gas dispersing out of your dough.
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That being said, it is recommended that you develop
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your volume increase
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metric. Your starter will increase in size and then
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ultimately lose structure
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and collapse. Observe the point before it collapses.
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This is the point when
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you should use your starter. This could be a
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\qty{50}{\percent} volume increase, 100
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percent or \qty{200}{\percent}. It is always better to use
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the starter a little bit
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too early rather than too late. If you use the
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starter later, reduce the
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quantity that you use. If the recipe calls for a 20
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percent starter quantity,
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use only 10
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percent starter in that case. Your starter will
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regrow in your main dough.
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On top of relying on the size increase, start
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taking note of your starter's
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smell. Over time you will be able to judge its
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fermentation state based on the
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smell. The stronger the smell becomes, the further
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your dough has fermented.
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This is a sign that you should use less starter
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when making the actual dough.
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Please refer to
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Section~\ref{sec:readying-starter}~``\nameref{section:readying-starter}''
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for more information on the topic.
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\subsection{What's the best starter feeding ratio?}
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The best starter feeding ratio is commonly either 1:5:5 or 1:10:10.
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In the case of 1:5:5 that's 1 part old starter,
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5 parts flour and 5 parts water. If you are using a stiff starter,
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use half the amount of water. So that's 1:5:2.5. Depending on when
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you last fed your starter 1:10:10 might make more sense. If the starter
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is old and hasn't been fed recently the 1:10:10 ratio is a better choice.
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By reducing the starter inoculation ratio, you provide the microorganisms
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with a cleaner environment. This way they can reproduce and regrow
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into a more desirable balance to begin your dough fermentation.
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Generally, think of your sourdough starter as a dough. Use the same
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ratios you use for your bread dough for your starter. Your starter
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should be trained in the same environment that you later use
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for your dough. This way your starter is perfectly suited to
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ferment the dough into which it is later inoculated.
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The only exception to the 1:5:5 and 1:10:10 rule is the initial
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starter set-up stage. For the first days during the starter-making
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process there aren't enough microbes yet. So using a 1:1:1 ratio
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can speed up the process.
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\subsection{What's the benefit of using a stiff sourdough starter?}
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A regular sourdough starter has equal parts of
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flour and water (\qty{100}{\percent} hydration). A stiffer
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sourdough starter features a hydration level of 50 to \qty{60}{\percent}.
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The stiff sourdough starter boosts the yeast part
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of your starter more. This way your gluten degrades
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slower and you can ferment for a longer period. This
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is especially handy when baking with lower gluten flours.
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You can read more about the topic of stiff sourdough
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starters in Section~\ref{sec:stiff-starter}.
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\subsection{What's the benefit of using a liquid sourdough starter?}
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The liquid starter will boost anaerobic bacterial
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fermentation in your starter. This way your starter
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tends to produce more lactic acid rather than acetic
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acid. Lactic acid is perceived as milder and more
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yogurty. Acetic acid can sometimes taste quite
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pungent. Acetic acid can be perfect when making
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dark rye bread but not so much when making a fluffy
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ciabatta-style loaf.
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When converting your starter to a liquid starter you are
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permanently altering the microbiome of your starter.
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You cannot go back once you have eliminated acetic
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acid-producing bacteria. So it is recommended to keep
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a backup of your original starter.
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A downside to the liquid starter is the overall
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enhanced bacterial activity compared to yeast activity. This means the baked bread
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will have more acidity (but milder). The dough will degrade
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faster during fermentation. For this reason, you
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will need to use strong high-gluten flour when using
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this type of starter.
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You can read more about the liquid starter in
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Section~\ref{sec:liquid-starter}
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\subsection{My new starter doesn't rise at all}
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Make sure that you use unchlorinated water.
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In many areas of the world, tap water has
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chlorine added to kill microorganisms. If that's
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the case in your region, bottled spring water will
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help.
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You can also use a water filter with activated charcoal
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which will remove the chlorine.
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Alternatively, if you draw tap water into a pitcher or other
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container and let it sit, loosely covered, the chlorine
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should dissipate within 12--24~hours, and you have
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the added advantage of automatically having
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room-temperature water.
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Make sure to use whole grain flour (whole-wheat, whole-rye, \etc{}).
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These flours have more natural wild yeast and
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bacterial contamination. Making a starter
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from just white flour sometimes doesn't work.
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Try to use organic unbleached flour to make
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the starter. Industrial flour can sometimes
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be treated with fungicides.
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\subsection{I~made a starter, it rose on day 3 and now not anymore}
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This is normal. As your starter is maturing, different
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microorganisms are activated. Especially during
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the first days of the process, bad microbes
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like mold can be activated. These cause your
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starter to rise a lot. With each subsequent
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starter-feeding, you select the microbes that are best
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at fermenting flour. For this reason, it is
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recommended to discard the leftover unused starter
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from the first days of the process. Later on, unneeded
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starter amounts should never be thrown away. You can make
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great discard bread out of it.
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So just keep going and don't give up. The first big
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rise is an indicator that you are doing everything
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right. Based on my experience, it takes around 7
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days to grow a starter. As you feed your starter
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more and more, it will become even better at fermenting
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flour. The first bread might not go exactly as you
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planned, but you will get there eventually. Each
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feeding makes your starter stronger and stronger.
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\subsection{Liquid on top of my starter}
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Sometimes a liquid, in many cases black liquid, gathers on top
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of your sourdough starter. The liquid might have a pungent
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smell to it. Many people confuse this with mold. I~have seen
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bakers recommending to discard the starter because of this liquid.
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The liquid is commonly known as \emph{hooch}. After a while
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of no activity the heavier flour separates from the water. The flour
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will sit at the bottom of your jar and the liquid will stay on top.
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The liquid turns darker because some particles of the flour weigh
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less than the water and float on top. Furthermore dead microorganisms
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float in this liquid. This liquid is not a bad thing; it's actively
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protecting your sourdough starter from aerobic mold entering through
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the top.
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\begin{figure}[!htb]
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\centering
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\includegraphics[width=0.5\textwidth]{sourdough-starter-hooch}
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\caption[Hooch] {Hooch building on top of a sourdough
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starter~\cite{liquid+on+starter}.}%
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\label{fig:hooch}
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\end{figure}
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Simply stir your sourdough starter to homogenize the hooch back
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into your starter. The hooch will disappear. Then use a little bit of
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your sourdough starter to set up the starter for your next bread.
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Once hooch appears, your starter has likely fermented for a long
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period of time. It might be very sour. This state of starter
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is excellent to make discard crackers or a discard bread. Don't throw
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anything away. Your hooch is a sign that you have a long fermented
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dough in front of you. Compare it to a 2 year ripened Parmigiano cheese.
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The dough in front of you is full of delicious flavor.
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\subsection{Fixing a moldy sourdough starter}
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First of all, making a moldy sourdough starter is very difficult.
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It's an indicator that something might be completely off in your starter.
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Normally the symbiosis of yeast and bacteria does not allow external
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pathogens such as mold to enter your sourdough starter.
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The low pH created by the bacteria is a very hostile environment
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that no other pathogens like. Generally everything below a pH
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of 4.2 can be considered food safe~\cite{food+safe+ph}. This
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is the concept of pickled foods. And your sourdough bread
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is essentially pickled bread.
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I~have seen this happening especially when the sourdough
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starter is relatively young. Each flour naturally contains
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mold spores. When beginning a sourdough starter, all
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the microorganisms start to compete by metabolizing the
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flour. Mold can sometimes win the race and outcompete
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the natural wild yeast and bacteria. In that case simply
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try cultivating your sourdough starter again. If mold reappears
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again, it might be a very moldy batch of flour. Try a different
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flour to begin your sourdough starter with.
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Mature sourdough starters should not go moldy unless the conditions
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of the starter change. I~have seen mold appearing when the starter is stored
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in the fridge and the surface dried out. It also sometimes forms on the
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edges of your starter's container, typically in areas where no active
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starter microorganisms can reach. Simply try to extract an
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area of your starter that has no mold. Feed it again with flour and
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water. After a few feedings, your starter should be back to normal.
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Take only a tiny bit of starter: \qtyrange{1}{2}{\gram} are enough. They already
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contain millions of microorganisms.
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Mold favors aerobic conditions. This means that air is required in order
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for the mold fungus to grow. Another technique that has worked for me
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was to convert my sourdough starter into a liquid starter. This successfully
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shifted my starter from acetic acid production to lactic acid production.
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Acetic acid, similarly to mold, requires oxygen to be produced. After
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submerging the flour with water, over time the lactic acid bacteria
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outcompeted the acetic acid bacteria. This is a similar concept to pickled
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foods. By doing this you are essentially killing all live mold fungi. You
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might only have some spores left. With each feeding the spores will become
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fewer and fewer. Furthermore, it seems that lactic acid bacteria produce
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metabolites that inhibit mold growth~\cite{mold+lactic+acid+bacteria}.
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\begin{figure}[!htb]
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\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{fungi-lactic-acid-interactions}
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\caption[The interaction of lactic acid bacteria and mold fungi]{The
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interaction of lactic acid bacteria and mold fungi.
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In~\cite{mold+lactic+acid+bacteria},
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\citeauthor{mold+lactic+acid+bacteria} et al.\ show how bacteria are
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producing metabolites that inhibit fungus growth.}%
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\label{fig:fungi-lactic-acid-interactions}
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\end{figure}
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To pickle your starter, simply take a bit of your existing starter (\qty{5}{\gram} for
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instance). Then feed the mixture with \qty{20}{\gram} of flour and \qty{100}{\gram} of water. You have
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created a starter with a hydration of around \qty{500}{\percent}. Shake the mixture vigorously.
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After a few hours you should start seeing most of the flour near the bottom
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of your container. After a while most of the oxygen from the bottom mixture
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is depleted and anaerobic lactic acid bacteria will start to thrive. Take a
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note of the smell your sourdough starter. If it was previously acetic
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it will now change to be a lot more dairy. Extract a bit of your mixture the
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next day by shaking everything first. Take \qty{5}{\gram} of the previous mixture, feed
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again with another \qty{20}{\gram} of flour and another \qty{100}{\gram} of water. After 2--3
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additional feedings your starter should have adapted. When switching back
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to a hydration of \qty{100}{\percent} the mold should have been eliminated. Please note that
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more tests should be conducted on this topic. It would be nice to really
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carefully analyze the microorganisms before the pickling and after.
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\subsection{My sourdough starter is too sour}
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If your sourdough starter is too sour it will cause problems during
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the fermentation. Your fermentation will have more
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bacterial activity than yeast activity. This means
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you will likely create a more tangy loaf which isn't
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as fluffy as it could be. The goal is to reach the right
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balance: Fluffy consistency from the yeast and a great,
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not-too-strong tang from the bacteria. This depends
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of course on what you are looking for in terms of taste
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in your bread. When making rye bread, I~prefer to be more
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on the tangy side for instance. When the described balance
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is off, the first thing to check is your sourdough starter.
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Note the smell of your starter. Does it smell very sour?
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Taste a bit of your starter too. How sour does it taste?
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Over time, every starter becomes more and more sour the longer
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you wait. But sometimes your starter becomes sour too fast.
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In this case apply daily feedings to your starter. Reduce
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the amount of old starter that you use to feed. A ratio
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of 1:5:5 or 1:10:10 can do wonders. In this case you would
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take 1 part of starter (\qty{10}{\gram}) and feed it with \qty{50}{\gram} of flour
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and \qty{50}{\gram} of water. This way the microorganisms start
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the fermentation in a greenfield environment. This is
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similar to the \qty{10}{\percent} starter or \qty{20}{\percent} starter
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ratio that you use to make a dough. These days I~almost
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never use a 1:1:1 ratio. This only makes sense when you
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are initially creating your starter. You want a sour
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environment so that your microorganisms outcompete
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potential pathogens. The acidic environment is toxic
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to most pathogens that you do not want in your starter.
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Another approach that can help is to convert your
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sourdough starter into a stiff starter as
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described in Section~\ref{sec:stiff-starter}.
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\subsection{Why does my starter smell like vinegar or acetone?}
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Your sourdough starter has likely produced a lot of acetic acid.
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Acetic acid is essential when creating vinegar. Once no additional
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food is left some of your starter's bacteria will consume ethanol
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and convert it into acetic acid. Acetic acid has a very pungent smell.
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When tasting acetic acid, the flavor of your bread is often perceived
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as quite strong.
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\begin{figure}[!htb]
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\centering
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\input{figures/fig-ethanol-oxidation.tex}
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\caption[Acetic acid creation]{Oxygen is required to create acetic
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acid~\cite{acetic+acid+production}.}%
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\label{fig:ethanol-oxidation}
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\end{figure}
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This is nothing bad. But if you would like to change
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the flavor of your final bread, consider converting
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your sourdough starter into a liquid starter. This will
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help to prioritize lactic acid-producing bacteria.
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Your flavor will change to dairy compared to vinegary.
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You can't go back though. After the conversion your starter
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will never go back to acetic acid production because you have
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changed the tides towards primarily lactic acid fermentation.
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I~like to have a separate rye starter. In my experiments
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rye starters tend to feature many acetic acid bacteria.
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This starter is excellent when you want to make a very hearty,
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strong-tasting bread. A pure rye bread tastes excellent when
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made with such a starter. The flavor when taking a bite
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is incredible. It nicely plays with soups as well. Just take
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a bit of this bread and dip it in your soup.
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\subsection{Why does my starter not float after using the float test?}
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The float test may not reliably determine your starter's readiness for dough
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inoculation. While it's effective for wheat-based doughs, where ample gas gets
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trapped in the gluten matrix, it's less reliable for non-wheat doughs. In non-
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wheat doughs, the gas generated during fermentation tends to escape, causing
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the starter to likely sink.
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For more accurate assessments of your starter's readiness, watch for bubbles
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at the container's edge and consider its aroma. A mature starter should emit a
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mildly sour scent without being overly pungent.
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\section{Dough}
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\subsection{Should I~autolyse my dough?}
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In \qty{95}{\percent} of all cases, an autolysis
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makes no sense. Instead I~recommend
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that you conduct a fermentolysis. You
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can read more about the autolysis process in
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Section~\ref{sec:autolysis} and
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more about the topic of fermentolysis
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in Section~\ref{sec:fermentolysis}.
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The fermentolysis combines all the benefits
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of the autolysis while eliminating disadvantages
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such as having to knead the dough multiple times.
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The autolysis only makes sense when you might
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bake a fast-fermenting yeast-based dough with a
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high yeast inoculation rate. But even in that
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case you could just lower the amount of yeast
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to fermentolyse rather than autolyse.
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\subsection{My dough sample (aliquot) doesn't rise. What's wrong?}
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If you see that your dough rises in size but your aliquot doesn't, chances
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are that both are fermenting at different speeds. This can often
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happen when the temperature in your kitchen changes. The aliquot
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is more susceptible to temperature changes than the main dough.
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Because the sample is smaller in size, it will heat up or cool down
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faster.
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For this reason, you must use room-temperature water when
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making your dough. By having the same temperature in both the sample
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and your dough, you make sure that both ferment at the same rate.
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If the temperature in your room changes significantly during the day, your
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best option is to use a see-through container. Mark the container to properly
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measure your dough's size increase.
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Another option could be to use a more expensive pH meter to measure your
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dough's acidity buildup. You can read more about different ways of managing
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bulk fermentation in Section~\ref{sec:bulk-fermentation}.
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\subsection{What's a good level of water (hydration) to make a dough?}
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Especially when starting to make bread, use lower amounts of water. This will
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greatly simplify the whole process. I~recommend using a level of around 60
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percent hydration. So for every \qty{100}{\gram} of flour use around \qty{60}{\gram} of water.
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This ballpark figure will work for most flours. With this hydration, you can
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make bread, buns, pizzas, and even baguettes out of the same dough.
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With the lower hydration, dough handling becomes easier and you have more yeast
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fermentation, resulting in lower over-fermentation risk.
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\subsection{My dough completely tears after a long fermentation}
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Sometimes when touching your dough after a long fermentation
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it completely tears apart. This could be for two reasons. It might
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be that the bacteria completely consumed the gluten of your flour.
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On the other hand, over time your gluten network automatically
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|
degrades. This is the protease enzyme converting the gluten
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network into smaller amino acids the seedling can use as
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building blocks for its growth. This process starts to happen
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the moment you mix flour and water. The longer your dough sits,
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the more gluten is broken down. As the gluten holds the
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wheat dough together, your dough will ultimately tear.
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|
\begin{figure}[!htb]
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\includegraphics[width=1.0\textwidth]{tearing-dough}
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\caption[Dough tearing]{My dough tearing after 24~hours of no activity.}%
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\label{fig:tearing-dough}
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\end{figure}
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In the picture~\ref{fig:tearing-dough} I~experimented with
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using a starter that has not been fed for 30 days at room temperature.
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I~tried to make a dough directly out of the unfed starter.
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Typically after a long period
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without feedings your microbes start to sporulate and go
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|
into hibernation mode. This way they can survive for a long
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period of time without extra feedings. Adding additional food
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will activate them again. In this case the dough did not ferment
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fast enough before the protease broke down the gluten. By activating
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your microbes they will start to reproduce and increase in quantity
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|
for as long as there is food available. But this process
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|
in my case was not fast enough. After around 24~hours, the whole
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dough just started to completely tear apart. The whole process was further
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|
accelerated by my using whole-wheat flour. Whole-wheat
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|
contains more enzymes than white flour.
|
|
|
|
To fix this, try to make sure that your sourdough starter is lively
|
|
and active. Simply apply a couple more feedings before
|
|
making your dough. This way your dough becomes ready to shape
|
|
before it has completely broken down.
|
|
|
|
\section{Bread}
|
|
\subsection{My bread stays flat}
|
|
|
|
A flat bread is in most cases related to your gluten
|
|
network breaking down fully. This is not bad; this
|
|
means you are eating a fully fermented food. However,
|
|
from a taste and consistency perspective, it might be
|
|
that your bread tastes too sour, or is not fluffy anymore.
|
|
Please also note that you can only make bread with
|
|
great oven spring when making wheat based doughs. When
|
|
starting with this hobby I~always wondered why my rye
|
|
breads would turn out so flat. Yes, rye has gluten, but
|
|
small particles called \emph{pentosans} (arabinoxylan and beta-glucan)~\cite{rye-defects}.
|
|
They prevent the dough from developing a gluten network it can
|
|
with wheat. Your efforts will be in vain, and your dough will
|
|
stay flat. Only spelt- and wheat-based doughs have the capability
|
|
of retaining the \ch{CO2} created by the fermentation.
|
|
|
|
In most cases something is probably off with your
|
|
sourdough starter. This very often happens when the starter
|
|
is still relatively young and isn't as capable of
|
|
fermenting flour. Over time your sourdough
|
|
starter is going to become better and better.
|
|
Keep your sourdough starter at room temperature
|
|
and then apply daily feedings with a 1:5:5 ratio.
|
|
This would be 1 part old starter, 5 parts flour,
|
|
5 parts water. This allows you to achieve a better
|
|
balance of yeast and bacteria in your sourdough.
|
|
Even better could be the use of a stiff sourdough
|
|
starter. The stiff sourdough starter boosts
|
|
the yeast part of your starter. This allows you
|
|
to have less bacterial fermentation, resulting
|
|
in a stronger gluten network toward the end
|
|
of the fermentation~\cite{stiff+starter}. Please
|
|
also refer to the Subsection~\ref{subsec:overfermented-dough} where
|
|
I~explained more about overfermented doughs. You can also
|
|
refer to Section~\ref{sec:stiff-starter} with more details on
|
|
making a stiff sourdough starter.
|
|
|
|
Furthermore, a stronger flour containing more gluten
|
|
will help you to push the fermentation further. This
|
|
is because your flour contains more gluten and will
|
|
take longer to be broken down by your bacteria. Ultimately,
|
|
if fermented for too long, your dough is also going
|
|
to be broken down and will become sticky and flat.
|
|
|
|
To debug whether the excess bacterial fermentation is the issue,
|
|
simply taste your dough. Does it taste very sour? If yes,
|
|
that's a good indicator. When working the dough, does it
|
|
suddenly become very sticky after a few hours? That's a
|
|
another good indicator. Please also use your nose to note
|
|
the smell of the dough. It shouldn't be too pungent.
|
|
|
|
\subsection{I~want more tang in my bread}
|
|
|
|
To achieve more tang in your sourdough bread, you have
|
|
to ferment your dough for a longer period of time.
|
|
Over time the bacteria will metabolize most of the
|
|
ethanol created by the yeast in your dough. The bacteria
|
|
mostly produce lactic and acetic acid. Lactic acid
|
|
is chemically more acidic than acetic acid but sometimes
|
|
not perceived as sour. In most cases a longer fermentation
|
|
is what you want. You will either need to utilize a loaf
|
|
pan to make your dough or use a flour that can withstand
|
|
a long fermentation period. A flour like this is typically
|
|
called a \emph{strong flour}. Stronger flours tend
|
|
to be from wheat varieties that have be grown in more
|
|
sunny conditions. Because of that, stronger flours tend
|
|
to be more expensive. For freestanding loaves, I~recommend
|
|
using a flour that contains at least \qty{12}{\percent} protein.
|
|
Generally, the more protein, the longer you can ferment your dough.
|
|
|
|
Another option to achieve a more sour flavor could be to
|
|
use a starter that produces more acetic acid. Based on my own
|
|
experience, most of my pure rye starters produced stronger acetic
|
|
notes. Chemically, the acetic acid isn't as sour, but when tasting
|
|
it will seem more sour. Make sure to use a starter that is at
|
|
a hydration of around \qty{100}{\percent}. Acetic acid production
|
|
requires oxygen. A starter that is too liquid tends to favor lactic
|
|
acid production because the flour is submerged in water. By submerging
|
|
the dough very little oxygen can pass through the water to the fermenting flour.
|
|
Because of this, only very little acetic acid can be produced. Over
|
|
time the acetic acid-producing bacteria will perish from your starter.
|
|
|
|
\begin{figure}[!htb]
|
|
\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{parbaked-bread.jpg}
|
|
\caption[Half-baked bread]{A half-baked bread, known as \emph{parbaked}.}%
|
|
\label{fig:parbaked-bread}
|
|
\end{figure}
|
|
|
|
Another easier option could be to bake your sourdough
|
|
twice. I~have observed this when shipping bread for my micro
|
|
bakery. The idea was to bake my bread for around 30~minutes
|
|
until it's sterilized, let it cool down and then ship it
|
|
to customers. Once you receive it, you just bake it again
|
|
for another 20--30~minutes to achieve the desired crust and
|
|
then you can eat it. Some of the customers reported a very sour
|
|
tasting bread. After investigating a bit more, it became
|
|
crystal clear. By baking the bread twice you don't boil off
|
|
as much acid during the baking process. Water
|
|
evaporates at around \qty{100}{\degreeCelsius} (\qty{212}{\degF}) while acetic
|
|
acid boils at \qty{118}{\degreeCelsius} (\qty{244}{\degF}) and lactic acid at
|
|
\qty{122}{\degreeCelsius} (\qty{252}{\degF}). After baking for 30~minutes at
|
|
around \qty{230}{\degreeCelsius} (\qty{446}{\degF}) some of the water has
|
|
started to evaporate, but not all the acid yet. If you were to continue to
|
|
bake, more and more of the acid would start to evaporate. Now if you were to
|
|
stop baking after 30~minutes, you would typically have reached a core
|
|
temperature of around \qty{95}{\degreeCelsius} (\qty{203}{\degF}). Your dough
|
|
would need
|
|
to be cooled down again to room temperature. The crust would
|
|
still be quite pale. Then a couple of hours later, you start
|
|
to bake your dough again. Your crust would become nice and
|
|
dark featuring delicious aroma. The aroma is coming from the
|
|
Maillard reaction. However, the core of your dough still won't
|
|
exceed the \qty{118}{\degreeCelsius} required to boil the acid. Overall, your
|
|
bread will be more sour. The enhanced acidity also helps
|
|
to prevent pathogens from entering your bread. The bread
|
|
will be good for a longer period of time. That's why
|
|
the concept of a delivery bakery works well with tangy sourdough bread.
|
|
In my own experiments, the bread stayed good for up to a week
|
|
in a plastic bag. This is much longer than a yeast-based dough that might
|
|
mold after just a few days\footnote{Some of my first test customers however
|
|
reported that the bread was overly sour and not pleasant to eat at all.
|
|
When this happens to you, consider toasting the bread. Toasting
|
|
will boil off additional acidity.}.
|
|
|
|
\subsection{My bread is too sour}
|
|
|
|
Some people like the bread less sour as well. This
|
|
is personal preference. To achieve a less sour bread
|
|
you need to ferment for a shorter period of time.
|
|
The yeast produces \ch{CO2} and ethanol. Both yeast and
|
|
bacteria consume the sugars released by the amylase enzyme
|
|
in your dough. When the sugar is depleted, bacteria starts to
|
|
consume the leftover ethanol by the yeast. Over time more
|
|
and more acidity is created, making a more sour loaf.
|
|
|
|
Another angle at this would be to change the yeast/bacteria
|
|
ratio of your sourdough. You can start the fermentation with
|
|
more yeast and less bacteria. This way, for the same given
|
|
volume increase of your dough, you will have less acidity.
|
|
A really good trick is to make sure that you feed your starter
|
|
once per day at room temperature. This way you shift
|
|
the tides of your starter towards a better yeast fermentation~\cite*{more+active+starter}.
|
|
|
|
To shift the tides even further, a real game changer
|
|
for me has been to create a stiff sourdough starter. The
|
|
stiff sourdough starter is at a hydration of around \qty{50}{\percent}.
|
|
By doing so your sourdough starter will favor yeast
|
|
activity a lot more. Your doughs will be more fluffy and less
|
|
sour for a given volume increase. I~tested this
|
|
by putting balloons over different glass jars. I~used
|
|
the same amount of flour for each of the samples.
|
|
I~tested a regular starter, a liquid starter and a stiff
|
|
starter. The stiff starter by far created the most \ch{CO2}
|
|
compared to the other starters. As a consequence, the stiff
|
|
starter balloon was inflated the most~\cite{stiff+starter}. You can read more
|
|
about the topic of stiff starters in Section~\ref{sec:stiff-starter}.
|
|
|
|
Another unconventional approach could be to add baking
|
|
powder to your dough. The baking powder neutralizes the
|
|
lactic acid and will make a much milder
|
|
dough~\cite{baking+powder+reduce-acidity}.
|
|
|
|
\subsection{My bread flattens out when removing it from the banneton}
|
|
|
|
After removing your dough from the banneton, your dough will always
|
|
flatten out a bit. That's because over time your gluten network
|
|
relaxes and can no longer hold the shape. However, during the course
|
|
of baking, your dough is going to increase in size and inflate again.
|
|
|
|
If your dough however flattens out completely, it's a sign that
|
|
you have fermented your dough for too long. Please refer to
|
|
Subsection~\ref{subsec:overfermented-dough}
|
|
where I~explain about overfermented doughs. Your bacteria
|
|
has consumed most of your gluten network. That's why your
|
|
dough fully collapses and stays flat during the bake. The
|
|
\ch{CO2} and evaporating water will diffuse out of the dough.
|
|
A related symptom is that your dough sticks to the banneton.
|
|
When I~starting baking I~combated this with rice flour.
|
|
It worked for me but it might be a false find. Please refer to
|
|
Subsection~\ref{subsec:overfermented-dough} for more details on why
|
|
rice flour is not a good idea to manage sticky doughs.
|
|
|
|
These days I~gently rub my
|
|
dough with a bit of non-rice flour before placing it in
|
|
the banneton. Now if the dough starts to stick to the banneton
|
|
while I~remove it I~resort to a drastic measure. I~immediately
|
|
grease a loaf pan and directly place the dough inside. The loaf
|
|
pan provides a barrier and the dough can't flatten out as much.
|
|
The dough won't be as fluffy but it will be super delicious if you love tangy bread.
|
|
|
|
If you own a pH meter, take a note of your dough's pH before baking.
|
|
This will allow you to better judge your dough throughout
|
|
the fermentation process.
|
|
|
|
\subsection{My bread flattens out during shaping}
|
|
|
|
Similarly to a dough flattening out after removing it from the banneton,
|
|
a flattened dough after shaping is also a possible sign of over-fermentation.
|
|
|
|
When you try to shape the dough, can you easily tear pieces from the dough?
|
|
If yes, you have definitely overfermented your dough. If not, it might just
|
|
be a sign that you have not created enough dough strength for your dough.
|
|
A ciabatta, for instance, is a dough that tends to flatten out a bit after shaping.
|
|
|
|
If your dough is not able to be shaped at all, use a greased loaf pan
|
|
to rescue your dough. You can also cut a piece of the dough and use it
|
|
as the starter for your next dough. Your sourdough dough is essentially
|
|
just a gigantic starter.
|
|
|
|
\subsection{My crust becomes chewy}
|
|
|
|
Depending on which style of bread you are making a
|
|
thick crackly crust is sometimes desired. The crust
|
|
of your bread is created during the 2nd stage of the
|
|
baking process once the steaming source of your
|
|
oven has been removed. The dark colors are created by
|
|
the process known as \emph{Maillard reaction} and then followed
|
|
by another process known as \emph{caramelization}. Each
|
|
color of crust offers the taster a different aroma.
|
|
|
|
What happens quite often is that the crust becomes chewy after a day.
|
|
Sometimes when baking in the tropics with high humidity, the
|
|
crust only stays in this stage for a few hours. Afterwards
|
|
the crust becomes chewy. It's no longer as crisp compared
|
|
to the moment after baking. Your dough still contains moisture.
|
|
This moisture will start to homogenize in the final bread and
|
|
partially evaporate. The result is that your crust becomes chewy.
|
|
|
|
Similarly when storing your bread in a container or in a plastic
|
|
bag, your crust is going to become chewy. I~have no fix for this yet.
|
|
I~typically tend to store my breads in a plastic bag inside of my fridge.
|
|
This allows the moisture to stay inside of bread. When taking a slice
|
|
I~always toast each slice. This way some of the crispness returns.
|
|
If you know of a great way, please reach out and I~will update
|
|
this book with your findings.
|
|
|
|
\input{troubleshooting/crumb-structures}
|
|
|
|
\section{Misc}
|
|
\subsection{Baking in the tropics}
|
|
|
|
Depending on the temperature, your fermentation speed adapts.
|
|
In a warmer environment, everything is faster. In a colder
|
|
environment, everything is slower.
|
|
|
|
This includes the speed at which your sourdough ferments
|
|
the dough but also the speed of enzymatic reactions. The
|
|
amylase and protease enzymes work faster, making more
|
|
sugars available and degrading the gluten proteins.
|
|
|
|
At around \qty{22}{\degreeCelsius} (\qty{72}{\degF}) in my kitchen my bulk fermentation is ready
|
|
after around 10~hours. I~use around \qty{20}{\percent} of sourdough
|
|
starter based on the flour. In summertime the temperatures
|
|
in my kitchen sometimes increase to
|
|
\qty{25}{\degreeCelsius} (\qty{77}{\degF}). In that case
|
|
I~reduce the sourdough starter to around \qty{10}{\percent}.
|
|
|
|
If I~didn't do that, my fermentation would be done after
|
|
around 4--7~hours. The problem is that the dough is quite
|
|
unstable when fermenting at this high speed. This means
|
|
that you easily run into issues of over-fermentation.
|
|
Finding the perfect sweet spot between fermenting enough
|
|
and not too much becomes much harder. Normally you might
|
|
have a time window of 1~hour. But at the rapid speed it
|
|
might be reduced to a time window of 20~minutes. Now at
|
|
\qty{30}{\degreeCelsius} (\qty{86}{\degF}), everything moves much faster. Your
|
|
bulk fermentation might be complete in 2--4~hours when using
|
|
\qtyrange{10}{20}{\percent} starter. Proofing your dough in the fridge becomes
|
|
almost impossible. As your dough cools down in the fridge the fermentation
|
|
also slows down. However cooling the dough down from \qty{30}{\degreeCelsius}
|
|
to \qtyrange{4}{6}{\degreeCelsius} in your fridge takes much longer. Your
|
|
dough is much more active compared to a dough that starts at a temperature of
|
|
\qtyrange{20}{25}{\degreeCelsius}. You might end up overproofing your dough if
|
|
you leave it overnight in the fridge.
|
|
|
|
That's why I~recommend that you reduce the amount of starter
|
|
that you use in the tropics to around \qtyrange{1}{5}{\percent}
|
|
based on the flour. This will slow down the fermentation
|
|
process significantly and provides you a bigger window
|
|
of time. Try to aim for an overall bulk fermentation of at
|
|
least 8--10~hours. Reduce the amount of starter to get there.
|
|
|
|
When making dough, try to use the same water temperature
|
|
as your ambient temperature. Assuming that the temperature
|
|
will climb to \qty{30}{\degreeCelsius} try to start your dough
|
|
with \qty{30}{\degreeCelsius} water. This means that you can carefully rely on
|
|
a small fermentation sample (aliquot jar) that visualizes your fermentation
|
|
progress. To read more about this technique refer
|
|
to Section~\ref{sec:bulk-fermentation}.
|
|
|
|
The sample only works reliably if your dough temperature
|
|
is equal to your ambient temperature. Else the sample heats
|
|
up or cools down faster. So tread carefully when using
|
|
the sample in this case. It's always better to stop
|
|
the fermentation a little too early rather than too late.
|
|
Stretch and folds during the bulk fermentation
|
|
will help you to develop a better feel for
|
|
the dough. An expensive but possibly useful tool
|
|
could be a pH meter that allows you to perfectly
|
|
measure how much acidity has been created by the
|
|
lactic and acetic acid bacteria. In this case measure
|
|
the pH repeatedly and figure out a value that works
|
|
for your sourdough. In my case I~tend to end bulk
|
|
fermentation at a pH of around 4.1. Please don't just
|
|
follow my pH value; it's very individual. Keep measuring
|
|
with different doughs to find out a value that works for you.
|
|
|
|
\subsection{My flour has low gluten content---what should I~do?}
|
|
|
|
You can always mix in a little bit of vital wheat gluten. Vital wheat gluten
|
|
is concentrated extracted gluten from wheat flour.
|
|
|
|
I~recommend that you add around \qty{5}{\gram} of wheat gluten for every
|
|
\qty{100}{\gram} of flour that you are using.
|