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205 lines
9.3 KiB
TeX
205 lines
9.3 KiB
TeX
In this chapter, you will learn how to make
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free-standing wheat sourdough bread.
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\begin{figure}[!htb]
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\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{loaf-pan-free-standing.jpg}
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\caption{A free-standing sourdough bread made with wheat flour}
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\end{figure}
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A free-standing sourdough bread is my favorite
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type of bread. It combines a great crunchy crust, superb
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flavor, and a soft fluffy crumb. This is the type of bread
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that is being inhaled by my friends and family. Unfortunately
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making this type of bread requires a lot more effort, patience,
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and technique than other types of bread. You have to perfectly
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balance the fermentation process. You can not ferment for too
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short and also not for too long. The techniques you need to
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learn require a bit more skill. It took me several attempts
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to get this right. One of the challenges I faced was that
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I had the wrong flour. I didn't properly know how to use my oven.
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When should I stop the fermentation? There is a lot of information
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out there. I dug through most of it and have tried almost everything.
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In many cases the information was wrong, in other cases, I
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found another valuable puzzle piece. Aggregating all this
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information was one of my main motivations to start the bread code.
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My key learning was that there there is no recipe that
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you can blindly follow. You will always have to adapt the recipe
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to your local available tools and environment.
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But do not worry. After reading this chapter you will know
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all the signs to look out for. You will be able to read your dough.
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You will turn into a confident hobby baker that can bake bread
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at home, at high altitudes, at low altitudes, in summer, in winter,
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at your friend's place, and even on vacation. Furthermore,
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you will know how to scale your production from 1 bread to 100 loaves of bread.
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If you ever wanted to open up a bakery, consider this knowledge to
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be your foundation.
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Mastering this process will enable you to bake amazing bread without
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ever buying yeast again.
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\section{The process}
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\begin{figure}[!htb]
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\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{sourdough-process-overview.jpg}
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\caption{An overview of the whole sourdough process from start to finish}
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\end{figure}
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The whole process of making great sourdough bread starts with
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readying your sourdough starter. The key to mastering
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this process is to manage the fermentation process properly.
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For this, the basis is to have an active and healthy
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sourdough starter.
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Once your starter is ready you proceed to mix all the ingredients.
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You want to homogenize your sourdough starter properly. This
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way you ensure an even fermentation across your whole dough.
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After a short break, you will proceed and create dough strength.
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Kneading will create a strong gluten network. This is essential
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to properly trap the CO2 created during the fermentation.
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Once you kneaded the bulk fermentation starts. Bulk fermentation
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because you typically ferment multiple doughs together in one bulk.
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Understanding when to stop this step will take some practice.
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But nothing to worry about, you will learn the exact signs to look out for.
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Once this is completed you need to divide your large blob of
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dough into smaller pieces and preshape each piece. This allows
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you to apply more dough strength and shape more uniform loaves.
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The proofing stage follows where you finish the fermentation process.
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Depending on your time you can proof at room temperature or in the fridge.
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Mastering proofing will turn your good loaf into a great loaf.
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Lastly, you will finish the whole process by baking. You will learn different
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options on how to properly steam your dough. This way your
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dough will have a beautiful oven spring. During the second
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stage of the baking process, you will finish building your crust.
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All the steps rely on each other. You will need to get each of
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the steps right to make the perfect bread.
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\section{Readying your starter}
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The most crucial part of the bread-making process is your starter.
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The starter is what starts the fermentation in your main dough.
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If your starter is off, then your main dough is also going
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to cause trouble during the fermentation. Your starter's
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properties are passed on to your main dough. If your starter
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doesn't have a good balance of yeast to bacteria, so will your
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main dough.
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\begin{figure}[!p]
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\centering
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\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{1-ready-starter}
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\caption[Readying a starter]{A flowchart showing how you can prepare your starter before baking.
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This assumes you are using a stiff starter.}
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\end{figure}
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Generally, think of the dough you are mixing as a big starter with salt.
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After mixing all the ingredients you have a green field environment again.
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The yeast and bacteria start to fight again to outcompete each other.
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There is plenty of food available and they all do their best to win.
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Depending on the starter you mix into your dough some of the microorganisms
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might have an advantage over the others.
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The first option to achieve a good balance is to apply feedings.
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If your starter hasn't been fed in a long period the
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bacteria dominate. This happens if your starter has been
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sitting unused in the fridge for instance. As more and more
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acidity piles up the environment is becoming more and more hostile
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to the yeast. The lactic acid bacteria tolerate this environment
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better. Your dough fermentation would be more towards the
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bacterial side with this starter. By applying a couple of
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feedings the yeast becomes more active. The older your
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starter the more acid resistant the yeast becomes. Initially,
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I had to feed my starter 2-3 times to fix the balance. With my
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more mature starter, one feeding seems to be enough to balance
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the microorganisms.
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Some people use a 1:1:1 ratio to refresh the starter. This would
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be one part of the old starter (10g for instance), 1 part of flour,
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and one part of water. I think this is utter rubbish. As mentioned
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your starter is a gigantic dough. You would never a 1:1:1 ratio to
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make a dough. You might use a maximum of 20 percent starter to
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make a dough. That's why I advocate using a 1:5:5 ratio or a
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1:10:10 ratio depending on how ripe your starter is. As I almost
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always use a stiffer sourdough starter due to its enhanced
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yeast fermentation advantages (see section \ref{section:stiff-starter})
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my ratio is never 1:5:5. My ratio would be 1:5:2.5 (1 part old starter,
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5 parts flour, 2.5 parts water). If it is very warm where you live
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you could opt for the aforementioned 1:10:5 or 1:20:10. This
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way you slow down the ripening of your starter. You can use this
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trick too to make starter feeding work with your schedule.
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If your starter is typically ready in 6 hours but today you need it
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ready later, simply increase how much flour/water you feed your starter.
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These are all values that you need to experiment with on your own.
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Every starter is unique and might behave slightly differently.
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The second option at your disposal is the starter quantity that
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you use to make the dough. As previously stated your starter
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regrows inside of your main dough. While I would normally use
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10-20 percent of starter based on the flour, sometimes I go
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as low as 1 percent starter. This way the microorganisms have
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more room to balance out while fermenting the dough. If my sourdough
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starter has not been fed in a day I might use 5 percent of sourdough
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to make a dough. If I push this to 2 days without feedings
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I lower the starter amount even further. I would opt for the
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previously mentioned 1 percent starter. If the food is very scarce
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your microorganisms will sporulate. They need to regrow again
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from the spores they created. In this hibernation state, it takes
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longer for them to become fully active again. I have tried
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several times to make dough directly out of a dry starter.
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I wasn't successful because the fermentation took too long.
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The microorganisms had to regrow from spores and then begin
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the fermentation. As explained earlier there is a limit to
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fermentation times as your dough naturally breaks down.
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Furthermore, you want your microorganisms to outcompete
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other pathogens contained in the flour. The less starter
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you use the easier it is for them to reproduce. A strong
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starter will outcompete other germs. While the method of
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reducing the starter works, I recommend option one more.
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It will reliably create better bread. Option 2 is typically
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what I use when I fed my starter in the morning but didn't
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manage to make a dough in the evening. I don't want to feed
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my starter again the next morning. I would like to make a dough
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directly without waiting and thus use less of the very ripe starter.
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Over time you will become more accustomed to your starter
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and how it behaves. You will be able to read the signs of its
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activity and judge its state.
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\section{Ingredients}
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This chapter is still pending and will be added soon.
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\section{Hydration}
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This chapter is still pending and will be added soon.
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\section{Autolyse}
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This chapter is still pending and will be added soon.
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\section{Fermentolyse}
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This chapter is still pending and will be added soon.
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\section{Dough strength}
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This chapter is still pending and will be added soon.
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\section{Controlling fermentation}
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This chapter is still pending and will be added soon.
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\section{Optional Preshaping}
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This chapter is still pending and will be added soon.
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\section{Shaping}
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This chapter is still pending and will be added soon.
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\section{Proofing}
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This chapter is still pending and will be added soon.
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\section{Scoring}
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This chapter is still pending and will be added soon.
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