Proofing & Scoring chapter (#42)

* Intro for proofing chapter

* Add proofing flow chart

* Cold proofing section

* Scoring chapter

* Add flowchart to baking section

* Remove no longer needed files

* Add more pictures

* Mark complete

* Change cover image
This commit is contained in:
Hendrik Kleinwaechter
2023-01-26 02:39:58 +01:00
committed by GitHub
parent 5c52383616
commit c1bd369e1d
16 changed files with 297 additions and 4 deletions

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.gitignore vendored
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*.run.xml
book/book.out
.vscode/
book/book.synctex*

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@@ -9,7 +9,7 @@ is different. This makes making sourdough bread at home so hard.
Say no more, this book will help you to master making bread in
your environment.
![Cover image](cover.jpg)
![A whole wheat sourdough bread](./book/images/whole-wheat-crumb.jpg)
## Motivation
@@ -25,6 +25,8 @@ That's why I decided to open source my knowledge hoping
that it will reach more people all over the world without
budget constrains.
![The book cover](cover.jpg)
## Status
The book is a work in progress. This represents the current status:
@@ -36,7 +38,7 @@ The book is a work in progress. This represents the current status:
* ✅ Sourdough starter types
* ✅ Flour types
* ✅ Bread types
* Wheat sourdough
* Wheat sourdough
* ❌ Non wheat sourdough
* ✅ Baking
* ❌ Storing bread

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@@ -2,6 +2,35 @@ Baking refers to the part of the process where you are loading
your dough into the oven. This is typically done after your
dough has gone through the bulk fermentation and proofing stage.
\begin{figure}[!htb]
\begin{tikzpicture}[node distance = 3cm, auto]
\node [block] (heat_oven) {\footnotesize Heat oven to 230°C (446°F) for 30 minutes};
\node [block, right of=heat_oven, node distance=3cm] (score_dough) {\footnotesize Score your dough};
\node [decision, right of=score_dough, node distance=4cm] (decide_steam) {\footnotesize Choose your steaming method};
\node [block, below of=heat_oven, node distance=4cm] (inverted_tray_method) {\footnotesize Inverted tray method};
\node [block, right of=inverted_tray_method, node distance=3cm] (dutch_oven) {\footnotesize Dutch oven};
\node [block, right of=dutch_oven, node distance=3cm] (steam_injection) {\footnotesize Steam injection oven};
\node [block, below of=inverted_tray_method, node distance=3cm] (bake_30) {\footnotesize Bake dough for 30 minutes with steam};
\node [block, right of=bake_30, node distance=3cm] (remove_steam) {\footnotesize Remove source of steam};
\node [block, right of=remove_steam, node distance=3cm] (build_crust) {\footnotesize Build the crust};
\node [block, right of=build_crust, node distance=3cm] (finish_baking) {\footnotesize Stop baking 10-30 minutes later depending on crust preference};
\path [line] (heat_oven) -- (score_dough);
\path [line] (score_dough) -- (decide_steam);
\path [line] (decide_steam) -- (inverted_tray_method);
\path [line] (decide_steam) -- (dutch_oven);
\path [line] (decide_steam) -- (steam_injection);
\path [line] (steam_injection) -- (bake_30);
\path [line] (inverted_tray_method) -- (bake_30);
\path [line] (dutch_oven) -- (bake_30);
\path [line] (bake_30) -- (remove_steam);
\path [line] (remove_steam) -- (build_crust);
\path [line] (build_crust) -- (finish_baking);
\end{tikzpicture}
\caption{A schematic visualization of the baking process using different sources of steam in a home oven.}
\label{fig:baking-process}
\end{figure}
Some other breads like flat breads
could also be baked on the stove. This chapter is focusing on the
home oven though.

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@@ -1504,9 +1504,270 @@ not notice that this improves the dough's strength. As far as I can
tell this only improves the visual appearance of the bottom side
of the final loaf.} If you did everything right then your
dough should look somewhat similar to the dough shown in figure \ref{fig:shaping-prepare-proofing}.
As the last step of shaping place a kitchen towel over your banneton
or bowl and begin proofing.
\section{Proofing}
This chapter is still pending and will be added soon.
In bread baking, proofing refers to the final rise of dough before baking,
after it has been shaped into a loaf. The chemical reactions and processes
that occur during bulk fermentation and proofing are the same.
By shaping your dough it has lost some of the air previously generated
throughout the bulk fermentation. The goal of proofing is to inflate
the dough again. A dough without proofing wouldn't offer the same texture
as a properly proofed dough. The proofed dough features a very fluffy
and soft crumb.
There are two proofing techniques. One strategy is to proof the dough
at room temperature whereas the other proofs the dough in the fridge.
Fridge-proofing is also commonly known as retarding.
Some bakers claim that cold proofing improves the final flavor of the bread.
In all the loaves that I retarded I could not notice a difference
in terms of flavor for cold-proofed doughs. The microorganisms work
at a slower rate at colder temperatures. But I doubt that they alter
their biochemical processes. More research is needed on the topic
of retarding and flavor development.
\begin{figure}[!htb]
\begin{tikzpicture}[node distance = 3cm, auto]
\node [decision] (init) {\footnotesize Room temperature proofing?};
\node [decision, right of=init, node distance=9cm] (retard_bake_decision) {\footnotesize Bake in less than 10 hours from now?};
\node [block, below of=init, node distance=4cm] (poke) {\footnotesize Poke the dough};
\node [block, right of=poke, node distance=4cm] (wait_poke) {\footnotesize Wait 15 minutes};
\node [decision, below of=poke, node distance=3cm] (dent_visible_decision) {\footnotesize Dent still visible after 1 minute?};
\node [block, right of=dent_visible_decision, node distance=4cm] (bake) {\footnotesize Score and bake};
\node [block, below of=retard_bake_decision, node distance=3cm] (wait_retard) {\footnotesize Wait 15 minutes};
\node [block, below of=wait_retard, node distance=3cm] (retard) {\footnotesize Proof in fridge at 4°C (40°F)};
\node [block, right of=wait_retard, node distance=3cm] (move_to_fridge) {\footnotesize Move dough directly to fridge};
\path [line] (init) -- node{yes} (poke);
\path [line] (init) -- node{no} (retard_bake_decision);
\path [line] (poke) -- (dent_visible_decision);
\path [line] (dent_visible_decision) -- node{yes} (bake);
\path [line] (dent_visible_decision) -- node{no} (wait_poke);
\path [line] (wait_poke) -- (poke);
\path [line] (retard_bake_decision) -- node{yes} (wait_retard);
\path [line] (retard_bake_decision) -- node{no} (move_to_fridge);
\path [line] (wait_retard) -- (retard);
\path [line] (move_to_fridge) -- (retard);
\path [line] (retard) -- (bake);
\end{tikzpicture}
\caption{A schematic overview of the different steps of the sourdough proofing process. The proofing technique to choose
depends on your availability and schedule.}
\label{fig:proofing-process}
\end{figure}
To me, the sole purpose of cold proofing is its ability to allow you
to better manage the timing of the whole process. Assuming you finished shaping
your dough at 10 pm, chances are you wouldn't want to wait for another
2 hours to proof the dough and then another 1 hour to bake it. In this case,
you can move your dough directly to the fridge after shaping. Your
dough will be proofing overnight in the fridge. Then it can be baked at any time
the following day (there are a few exceptions, more on that a little bit later).
This is especially handy for large-scale bakeries that use fridge-proofing
extensively. Some of the doughs are proofed a day before and placed in the fridge.
Early in the morning, they can be baked directly out of the fridge. Within 2
hours they will be ready to sell the first bread to morning customers. If
throughout the day more bread is needed simply take some proofed dough out
of the fridge and bake it. The time frame in which you can bake retarded
dough is big. It can be 6 hours later up to 24 hours later.
Assuming you made an overnight dough and your dough is ready in the morning,
the situation might be different. You potentially want to bake the dough directly
for breakfast, or at lunchtime. In this case, you wouldn't want to proof the dough for
another 6 hours in the fridge. Room temperature proofing is your technique
of choice.
To summarize, choose the technique that works for you depending on your
schedule and availability.
\subsection{Room temperature proofing}
The easiest and most reliable way to proof your dough is to proof the dough at
room temperature. It is my method of choice if my schedule allows it. This method
works great if you make an overnight dough and then proof in the next
morning.
\begin{figure}[htb!]
\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{step-13-finger-poke-test}
\caption{The finger poke test is a very reliable method to check
if your dough has been properly proofed. If the induced dent is still
visible 1 minute later your dough can be baked.}
\label{fig:shaping-finger-poke}
\end{figure}
The time it takes to proof your dough can be anything between 30 minutes and
3 hours. Rather than relying on timing most bakers use the finger poke test.
Flour your thumb and gently press around 0.5cm up to 1cm deep into the dough.
Try this directly after shaping. You will notice that the created dent will
recover quickly. It will be gone again after 1 minute.
As you proceed with proofing your dough will fill up with more gas. At the
same time, the dough will become more extensible. Once it starts to reach the
right amount of fluffiness and extensibility the dent will disappear more slowly.
Once the dough is for scoring and baking the dent should still be visible after
1 minute of waiting.
I recommend performing the finger poke test once every 15 minutes throughout
the proofing stage. Realistically based on my experience proofing takes at least
one hour and can sometimes take up to 3 hours. Even at warmer temperatures proofing
has never been faster than an hour for me. As always please take my timings with
a grain of salt and experiment on your own.
Once I see that the dough is getting close to perfect proofing I proceed and
preheat my oven. This way I don't overproof the dough. You would notice an
over-proofed dough when the dough suddenly becomes very sticky. At the same
time, the dough is likely to collapse during baking and will not spring back.
Generally, it is better to end proofing earlier rather than too late.
\subsection{Cold proofing (retarding)}
The second proofing option is to place your dough inside the fridge for
proofing. This option is great if you do not want to bake the dough
within the next 3 hours.
The dough will initially proof at the same rate as the room temperature dough.
As the dough cools down the rate of fermentation slows. Ultimately at below
4°C (40°F) the fermentation comes to a halt. \footnote{The actual temperature
depends on the bacteria and yeast you cultivated in your sourdough
starter.} The dough can rest in the fridge for up to 24 hours. In some
experiments, the dough was still good even 48 hours later. Interestingly
there is a limit to fridge proofing. I can only explain this with continuous
fermentation activity at low temperatures.
The hard part is to judge when the dough is finished proofing in your fridge.
The previously mentioned finger poke test does not work on cold dough. Low
temperatures change the dough's elasticity. The dent from the poke test
will never recover.
For this reason, finding the best fridge-proofing time is best done
with an iterative approach. Begin with 8 hours on your first dough,
10 hours on the second, 12 hours on the third, and so on up to 24 hours.
As the temperature in your fridge is typically constant you have an
environment in which you can rely on timings. Find the ideal proofing
time that works for you.
One additional consideration is the dough's core temperature before
placing it inside the fridge. The warmer your dough is initially
the longer it takes for the dough to cool down. This is an additional
variable to take into consideration when choosing the retarding time.
In summer times when my kitchen is hot I choose a shorter fridge-proofing
time compared to winter times when the dough is colder.
A reliable way to ensure consistent proofing is to opt for using a pH
meter. By checking the amount of piled-up acidity you can ensure
each of your doughs has the right amount of acidity. Opt for an iterative
approach and check the pH for multiple proofing times. Find the pH
the value that creates the best bread for you. Once you have identified
your perfect pH level you can resort to that value on all following
doughs. See table \ref{table:sample-ph-values} for some sample pH values
to follow.
\section{Scoring}
This chapter is still pending and will be added soon.
Once your dough is done proofing it's time to warm up your oven
to around 230°C (446°F). The next step is then to proceed with
scoring your dough.
Scoring is done for two reasons. There is functional and decorative
scoring. Functional scoring refers to making a small incision in the dough
through which it rises while baking. If the dough wouldn't be scored
it would likely crack open at the weakest spots where you sealed
the dough after shaping. Decorative scoring can be used to apply
artistic patterns to your dough and make it more appealing. When
you want to apply artistic scoring it is best to rub your dough
with additional rice flour before scoring. The white rice flour
greatly boosts the contrast of the scoring incisions and thus
makes the final pattern look more visually appealing.
\begin{figure}[htb!]
\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{the-ear}
\caption{The ear is a characteristic that can be achieved on wheat sourdough
when fermenting and scoring your dough with the perfect technique. It offers additional
flavor and great texture when eating the bread.}
\label{fig:the-ear}
\end{figure}
When using a banneton the dough is flipped over and
placed on an oven rack, tray, stone, steel, or dutch oven. The pros
and cons of the different baking options are covered in the next chapter.
The dough's top side which was previously at the bottom of the
banneton should now be facing you.
\begin{figure}[htb!]
\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{artistic-scoring}
\caption{A loaf by Nancy Anne featuring an artistic scoring pattern.
The high contrast was achieved by rubbing the
dough's surface with rice flour before baking. Her Instagram
account "simply.beautiful.sourdough" is specialized to showcase
beautiful artistic scoring patterns.}
\label{fig:artistic-scoring}
\end{figure}
The scoring cut for done at a 45° angle relative to the dough's
surface slightly off the dough's center. With the 45° angle cut
the overlaying side will rise more in the oven than the other side.
This way you will achieve a so-called "ear" on the final bread.
The ear is a thin crisp edge that offers intriguing texture
when eating. The thin edge is typically a bit darker after baking
and thus offers additional flavor. In my opinion, the ear is turning
a good loaf into a great loaf.
\begin{figure}[htb!]
\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{bread-scoring-angle}
\caption{The 45° angle at which you score the dough is relative to the surface of the dough.
When scoring more towards the side you have to adjust the angle to get achieve the ear on your
bread.}
\label{fig:scoring-angle}
\end{figure}
The actual incision is done with a very sharp knife or better a razor
blade. You can use the razor blade directly or attach it to a chopstick.
The razor blade offers better flexibility than the sharp knife.
Regardless the blade should be as sharp as possible. This way when cutting
the dough is not torn and instead features a clean non rugged incision.
To simplify scoring your dough's surface must be dried out a little bit.
This way it is a lot easier to make the incision.
For this reason, it is crucial to rub your dough with a bit of flour
before placing it in the banneton. The dry flour will absorb some of the
moisture of the outer layers of your dough. This is especially important
when working with room temperature-proofed doughs. A cold-proofed dough
is a lot easier to score due to the dough's low viscosity. The room-temperature
dough is a lot harder to score. The scoring incision tears a lot
easier. With a rugged incision, the dough is not as likely to properly
rise in the oven. Chances are you will not achieve the previously mentioned
ear. For this reason, drying out the surface is especially important. Scoring
will become a lot easier.
\begin{figure}[htb!]
\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{dry-dough-surface}
\caption{By applying flour to your dough's surface after shaping the outer part
of the dough dries out a little bit. This makes scoring a lot easier as the incision
is less likely to tear.}
\label{fig:dried-out-dough-scoring}
\end{figure}
Scoring requires a lot of practice. For this reason, I recommend
practicing making the incision after creating dough strength. The dough
is going to be very wet and sticky. You can use a sharp knife or razor
blade to practice the technique. Wait a few minutes and then round
up the dough again. You can practice this for as long as you like
until you are happy with your technique. After proofing, you only
have a single chance to practice scoring. It's either hit or miss.
An additional trick that can help you to combine the benefits
of room temperature proofing and easy cold proofing scoring
is to place your dough in the freezer for 30 minutes before baking.
Once you notice your dough is almost done proofing move it to the
freezer. The freezer will dry out the surface even further and make
scoring easier.
Another interesting trick is to bake your dough for 30 seconds without steam.
The hot air will dry out the dough's surface even further and simplify
the scoring technique. Experiment with the timing to identify your personal
sweet spot.