Proofing & Scoring chapter (#42)
* Intro for proofing chapter * Add proofing flow chart * Cold proofing section * Scoring chapter * Add flowchart to baking section * Remove no longer needed files * Add more pictures * Mark complete * Change cover image
1
.gitignore
vendored
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*.run.xml
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book/book.out
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.vscode/
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book/book.synctex*
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@@ -9,7 +9,7 @@ is different. This makes making sourdough bread at home so hard.
|
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Say no more, this book will help you to master making bread in
|
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your environment.
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|
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|
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## Motivation
|
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@@ -25,6 +25,8 @@ That's why I decided to open source my knowledge hoping
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that it will reach more people all over the world without
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budget constrains.
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## Status
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The book is a work in progress. This represents the current status:
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@@ -36,7 +38,7 @@ The book is a work in progress. This represents the current status:
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* ✅ Sourdough starter types
|
||||
* ✅ Flour types
|
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* ✅ Bread types
|
||||
* ❌ Wheat sourdough
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||||
* ✅ Wheat sourdough
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* ❌ Non wheat sourdough
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* ✅ Baking
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* ❌ Storing bread
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@@ -2,6 +2,35 @@ Baking refers to the part of the process where you are loading
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your dough into the oven. This is typically done after your
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dough has gone through the bulk fermentation and proofing stage.
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\begin{figure}[!htb]
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\begin{tikzpicture}[node distance = 3cm, auto]
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\node [block] (heat_oven) {\footnotesize Heat oven to 230°C (446°F) for 30 minutes};
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\node [block, right of=heat_oven, node distance=3cm] (score_dough) {\footnotesize Score your dough};
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\node [decision, right of=score_dough, node distance=4cm] (decide_steam) {\footnotesize Choose your steaming method};
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||||
\node [block, below of=heat_oven, node distance=4cm] (inverted_tray_method) {\footnotesize Inverted tray method};
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\node [block, right of=inverted_tray_method, node distance=3cm] (dutch_oven) {\footnotesize Dutch oven};
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\node [block, right of=dutch_oven, node distance=3cm] (steam_injection) {\footnotesize Steam injection oven};
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||||
\node [block, below of=inverted_tray_method, node distance=3cm] (bake_30) {\footnotesize Bake dough for 30 minutes with steam};
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||||
\node [block, right of=bake_30, node distance=3cm] (remove_steam) {\footnotesize Remove source of steam};
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||||
\node [block, right of=remove_steam, node distance=3cm] (build_crust) {\footnotesize Build the crust};
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||||
\node [block, right of=build_crust, node distance=3cm] (finish_baking) {\footnotesize Stop baking 10-30 minutes later depending on crust preference};
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\path [line] (heat_oven) -- (score_dough);
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\path [line] (score_dough) -- (decide_steam);
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||||
\path [line] (decide_steam) -- (inverted_tray_method);
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\path [line] (decide_steam) -- (dutch_oven);
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\path [line] (decide_steam) -- (steam_injection);
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\path [line] (steam_injection) -- (bake_30);
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||||
\path [line] (inverted_tray_method) -- (bake_30);
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\path [line] (dutch_oven) -- (bake_30);
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\path [line] (bake_30) -- (remove_steam);
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\path [line] (remove_steam) -- (build_crust);
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\path [line] (build_crust) -- (finish_baking);
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\end{tikzpicture}
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\caption{A schematic visualization of the baking process using different sources of steam in a home oven.}
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\label{fig:baking-process}
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\end{figure}
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Some other breads like flat breads
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could also be baked on the stove. This chapter is focusing on the
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home oven though.
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|
Before Width: | Height: | Size: 1.3 MiB |
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book/wheat-sourdough/artistic-scoring.jpg
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book/wheat-sourdough/bread-scoring-angle.jpg
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book/wheat-sourdough/dry-dough-surface.jpg
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book/wheat-sourdough/shaping/step-13-finger-poke-test.jpg
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book/wheat-sourdough/the-ear.jpg
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@@ -1504,9 +1504,270 @@ not notice that this improves the dough's strength. As far as I can
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tell this only improves the visual appearance of the bottom side
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of the final loaf.} If you did everything right then your
|
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dough should look somewhat similar to the dough shown in figure \ref{fig:shaping-prepare-proofing}.
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As the last step of shaping place a kitchen towel over your banneton
|
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or bowl and begin proofing.
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\section{Proofing}
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This chapter is still pending and will be added soon.
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|
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In bread baking, proofing refers to the final rise of dough before baking,
|
||||
after it has been shaped into a loaf. The chemical reactions and processes
|
||||
that occur during bulk fermentation and proofing are the same.
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|
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By shaping your dough it has lost some of the air previously generated
|
||||
throughout the bulk fermentation. The goal of proofing is to inflate
|
||||
the dough again. A dough without proofing wouldn't offer the same texture
|
||||
as a properly proofed dough. The proofed dough features a very fluffy
|
||||
and soft crumb.
|
||||
|
||||
There are two proofing techniques. One strategy is to proof the dough
|
||||
at room temperature whereas the other proofs the dough in the fridge.
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||||
Fridge-proofing is also commonly known as retarding.
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|
||||
Some bakers claim that cold proofing improves the final flavor of the bread.
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In all the loaves that I retarded I could not notice a difference
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in terms of flavor for cold-proofed doughs. The microorganisms work
|
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at a slower rate at colder temperatures. But I doubt that they alter
|
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their biochemical processes. More research is needed on the topic
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of retarding and flavor development.
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\begin{figure}[!htb]
|
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\begin{tikzpicture}[node distance = 3cm, auto]
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\node [decision] (init) {\footnotesize Room temperature proofing?};
|
||||
\node [decision, right of=init, node distance=9cm] (retard_bake_decision) {\footnotesize Bake in less than 10 hours from now?};
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\node [block, below of=init, node distance=4cm] (poke) {\footnotesize Poke the dough};
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\node [block, right of=poke, node distance=4cm] (wait_poke) {\footnotesize Wait 15 minutes};
|
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\node [decision, below of=poke, node distance=3cm] (dent_visible_decision) {\footnotesize Dent still visible after 1 minute?};
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\node [block, right of=dent_visible_decision, node distance=4cm] (bake) {\footnotesize Score and bake};
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\node [block, below of=retard_bake_decision, node distance=3cm] (wait_retard) {\footnotesize Wait 15 minutes};
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\node [block, below of=wait_retard, node distance=3cm] (retard) {\footnotesize Proof in fridge at 4°C (40°F)};
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\node [block, right of=wait_retard, node distance=3cm] (move_to_fridge) {\footnotesize Move dough directly to fridge};
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\path [line] (init) -- node{yes} (poke);
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\path [line] (init) -- node{no} (retard_bake_decision);
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\path [line] (poke) -- (dent_visible_decision);
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\path [line] (dent_visible_decision) -- node{yes} (bake);
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\path [line] (dent_visible_decision) -- node{no} (wait_poke);
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\path [line] (wait_poke) -- (poke);
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\path [line] (retard_bake_decision) -- node{yes} (wait_retard);
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\path [line] (retard_bake_decision) -- node{no} (move_to_fridge);
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\path [line] (wait_retard) -- (retard);
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\path [line] (move_to_fridge) -- (retard);
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\path [line] (retard) -- (bake);
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||||
\end{tikzpicture}
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\caption{A schematic overview of the different steps of the sourdough proofing process. The proofing technique to choose
|
||||
depends on your availability and schedule.}
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\label{fig:proofing-process}
|
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\end{figure}
|
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|
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To me, the sole purpose of cold proofing is its ability to allow you
|
||||
to better manage the timing of the whole process. Assuming you finished shaping
|
||||
your dough at 10 pm, chances are you wouldn't want to wait for another
|
||||
2 hours to proof the dough and then another 1 hour to bake it. In this case,
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||||
you can move your dough directly to the fridge after shaping. Your
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dough will be proofing overnight in the fridge. Then it can be baked at any time
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the following day (there are a few exceptions, more on that a little bit later).
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This is especially handy for large-scale bakeries that use fridge-proofing
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extensively. Some of the doughs are proofed a day before and placed in the fridge.
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Early in the morning, they can be baked directly out of the fridge. Within 2
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hours they will be ready to sell the first bread to morning customers. If
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throughout the day more bread is needed simply take some proofed dough out
|
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of the fridge and bake it. The time frame in which you can bake retarded
|
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dough is big. It can be 6 hours later up to 24 hours later.
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Assuming you made an overnight dough and your dough is ready in the morning,
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the situation might be different. You potentially want to bake the dough directly
|
||||
for breakfast, or at lunchtime. In this case, you wouldn't want to proof the dough for
|
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another 6 hours in the fridge. Room temperature proofing is your technique
|
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of choice.
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To summarize, choose the technique that works for you depending on your
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schedule and availability.
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\subsection{Room temperature proofing}
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||||
The easiest and most reliable way to proof your dough is to proof the dough at
|
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room temperature. It is my method of choice if my schedule allows it. This method
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works great if you make an overnight dough and then proof in the next
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morning.
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\begin{figure}[htb!]
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||||
\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{step-13-finger-poke-test}
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\caption{The finger poke test is a very reliable method to check
|
||||
if your dough has been properly proofed. If the induced dent is still
|
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visible 1 minute later your dough can be baked.}
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\label{fig:shaping-finger-poke}
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||||
\end{figure}
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The time it takes to proof your dough can be anything between 30 minutes and
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3 hours. Rather than relying on timing most bakers use the finger poke test.
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|
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Flour your thumb and gently press around 0.5cm up to 1cm deep into the dough.
|
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Try this directly after shaping. You will notice that the created dent will
|
||||
recover quickly. It will be gone again after 1 minute.
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|
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As you proceed with proofing your dough will fill up with more gas. At the
|
||||
same time, the dough will become more extensible. Once it starts to reach the
|
||||
right amount of fluffiness and extensibility the dent will disappear more slowly.
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Once the dough is for scoring and baking the dent should still be visible after
|
||||
1 minute of waiting.
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I recommend performing the finger poke test once every 15 minutes throughout
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||||
the proofing stage. Realistically based on my experience proofing takes at least
|
||||
one hour and can sometimes take up to 3 hours. Even at warmer temperatures proofing
|
||||
has never been faster than an hour for me. As always please take my timings with
|
||||
a grain of salt and experiment on your own.
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||||
Once I see that the dough is getting close to perfect proofing I proceed and
|
||||
preheat my oven. This way I don't overproof the dough. You would notice an
|
||||
over-proofed dough when the dough suddenly becomes very sticky. At the same
|
||||
time, the dough is likely to collapse during baking and will not spring back.
|
||||
Generally, it is better to end proofing earlier rather than too late.
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||||
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||||
\subsection{Cold proofing (retarding)}
|
||||
|
||||
The second proofing option is to place your dough inside the fridge for
|
||||
proofing. This option is great if you do not want to bake the dough
|
||||
within the next 3 hours.
|
||||
|
||||
The dough will initially proof at the same rate as the room temperature dough.
|
||||
As the dough cools down the rate of fermentation slows. Ultimately at below
|
||||
4°C (40°F) the fermentation comes to a halt. \footnote{The actual temperature
|
||||
depends on the bacteria and yeast you cultivated in your sourdough
|
||||
starter.} The dough can rest in the fridge for up to 24 hours. In some
|
||||
experiments, the dough was still good even 48 hours later. Interestingly
|
||||
there is a limit to fridge proofing. I can only explain this with continuous
|
||||
fermentation activity at low temperatures.
|
||||
|
||||
The hard part is to judge when the dough is finished proofing in your fridge.
|
||||
The previously mentioned finger poke test does not work on cold dough. Low
|
||||
temperatures change the dough's elasticity. The dent from the poke test
|
||||
will never recover.
|
||||
|
||||
For this reason, finding the best fridge-proofing time is best done
|
||||
with an iterative approach. Begin with 8 hours on your first dough,
|
||||
10 hours on the second, 12 hours on the third, and so on up to 24 hours.
|
||||
As the temperature in your fridge is typically constant you have an
|
||||
environment in which you can rely on timings. Find the ideal proofing
|
||||
time that works for you.
|
||||
|
||||
One additional consideration is the dough's core temperature before
|
||||
placing it inside the fridge. The warmer your dough is initially
|
||||
the longer it takes for the dough to cool down. This is an additional
|
||||
variable to take into consideration when choosing the retarding time.
|
||||
In summer times when my kitchen is hot I choose a shorter fridge-proofing
|
||||
time compared to winter times when the dough is colder.
|
||||
|
||||
A reliable way to ensure consistent proofing is to opt for using a pH
|
||||
meter. By checking the amount of piled-up acidity you can ensure
|
||||
each of your doughs has the right amount of acidity. Opt for an iterative
|
||||
approach and check the pH for multiple proofing times. Find the pH
|
||||
the value that creates the best bread for you. Once you have identified
|
||||
your perfect pH level you can resort to that value on all following
|
||||
doughs. See table \ref{table:sample-ph-values} for some sample pH values
|
||||
to follow.
|
||||
|
||||
\section{Scoring}
|
||||
This chapter is still pending and will be added soon.
|
||||
|
||||
Once your dough is done proofing it's time to warm up your oven
|
||||
to around 230°C (446°F). The next step is then to proceed with
|
||||
scoring your dough.
|
||||
|
||||
Scoring is done for two reasons. There is functional and decorative
|
||||
scoring. Functional scoring refers to making a small incision in the dough
|
||||
through which it rises while baking. If the dough wouldn't be scored
|
||||
it would likely crack open at the weakest spots where you sealed
|
||||
the dough after shaping. Decorative scoring can be used to apply
|
||||
artistic patterns to your dough and make it more appealing. When
|
||||
you want to apply artistic scoring it is best to rub your dough
|
||||
with additional rice flour before scoring. The white rice flour
|
||||
greatly boosts the contrast of the scoring incisions and thus
|
||||
makes the final pattern look more visually appealing.
|
||||
|
||||
\begin{figure}[htb!]
|
||||
\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{the-ear}
|
||||
\caption{The ear is a characteristic that can be achieved on wheat sourdough
|
||||
when fermenting and scoring your dough with the perfect technique. It offers additional
|
||||
flavor and great texture when eating the bread.}
|
||||
\label{fig:the-ear}
|
||||
\end{figure}
|
||||
|
||||
When using a banneton the dough is flipped over and
|
||||
placed on an oven rack, tray, stone, steel, or dutch oven. The pros
|
||||
and cons of the different baking options are covered in the next chapter.
|
||||
The dough's top side which was previously at the bottom of the
|
||||
banneton should now be facing you.
|
||||
|
||||
\begin{figure}[htb!]
|
||||
\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{artistic-scoring}
|
||||
\caption{A loaf by Nancy Anne featuring an artistic scoring pattern.
|
||||
The high contrast was achieved by rubbing the
|
||||
dough's surface with rice flour before baking. Her Instagram
|
||||
account "simply.beautiful.sourdough" is specialized to showcase
|
||||
beautiful artistic scoring patterns.}
|
||||
\label{fig:artistic-scoring}
|
||||
\end{figure}
|
||||
|
||||
The scoring cut for done at a 45° angle relative to the dough's
|
||||
surface slightly off the dough's center. With the 45° angle cut
|
||||
the overlaying side will rise more in the oven than the other side.
|
||||
This way you will achieve a so-called "ear" on the final bread.
|
||||
The ear is a thin crisp edge that offers intriguing texture
|
||||
when eating. The thin edge is typically a bit darker after baking
|
||||
and thus offers additional flavor. In my opinion, the ear is turning
|
||||
a good loaf into a great loaf.
|
||||
|
||||
\begin{figure}[htb!]
|
||||
\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{bread-scoring-angle}
|
||||
\caption{The 45° angle at which you score the dough is relative to the surface of the dough.
|
||||
When scoring more towards the side you have to adjust the angle to get achieve the ear on your
|
||||
bread.}
|
||||
\label{fig:scoring-angle}
|
||||
\end{figure}
|
||||
|
||||
The actual incision is done with a very sharp knife or better a razor
|
||||
blade. You can use the razor blade directly or attach it to a chopstick.
|
||||
The razor blade offers better flexibility than the sharp knife.
|
||||
Regardless the blade should be as sharp as possible. This way when cutting
|
||||
the dough is not torn and instead features a clean non rugged incision.
|
||||
|
||||
To simplify scoring your dough's surface must be dried out a little bit.
|
||||
This way it is a lot easier to make the incision.
|
||||
For this reason, it is crucial to rub your dough with a bit of flour
|
||||
before placing it in the banneton. The dry flour will absorb some of the
|
||||
moisture of the outer layers of your dough. This is especially important
|
||||
when working with room temperature-proofed doughs. A cold-proofed dough
|
||||
is a lot easier to score due to the dough's low viscosity. The room-temperature
|
||||
dough is a lot harder to score. The scoring incision tears a lot
|
||||
easier. With a rugged incision, the dough is not as likely to properly
|
||||
rise in the oven. Chances are you will not achieve the previously mentioned
|
||||
ear. For this reason, drying out the surface is especially important. Scoring
|
||||
will become a lot easier.
|
||||
|
||||
\begin{figure}[htb!]
|
||||
\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{dry-dough-surface}
|
||||
\caption{By applying flour to your dough's surface after shaping the outer part
|
||||
of the dough dries out a little bit. This makes scoring a lot easier as the incision
|
||||
is less likely to tear.}
|
||||
\label{fig:dried-out-dough-scoring}
|
||||
\end{figure}
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
Scoring requires a lot of practice. For this reason, I recommend
|
||||
practicing making the incision after creating dough strength. The dough
|
||||
is going to be very wet and sticky. You can use a sharp knife or razor
|
||||
blade to practice the technique. Wait a few minutes and then round
|
||||
up the dough again. You can practice this for as long as you like
|
||||
until you are happy with your technique. After proofing, you only
|
||||
have a single chance to practice scoring. It's either hit or miss.
|
||||
|
||||
An additional trick that can help you to combine the benefits
|
||||
of room temperature proofing and easy cold proofing scoring
|
||||
is to place your dough in the freezer for 30 minutes before baking.
|
||||
Once you notice your dough is almost done proofing move it to the
|
||||
freezer. The freezer will dry out the surface even further and make
|
||||
scoring easier.
|
||||
|
||||
Another interesting trick is to bake your dough for 30 seconds without steam.
|
||||
The hot air will dry out the dough's surface even further and simplify
|
||||
the scoring technique. Experiment with the timing to identify your personal
|
||||
sweet spot.
|
||||